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Old 08-02-2010, 12:08 PM   #121
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For a couple days? With no leaks? How did you manage that? I did test the system out (dry fitted) in my garage but I bypassed the overflow.. didn't notice the sound then. How do you "smack them together" then go back and glue everything? In my set up, It had to be glued before being filled with water, there is no getting behind the tank once filled with water...
Haha yea. I ran my frag system for years actually without going back and gluing the fittings. PVC has always fit really tight for me, I have been running my 12 with them pushed together for a week or so now without any problems. I just smack everything together with a hammer or against the ground

I usually test run it with hose water somewhere I can mess with it all, then drain it and move it to where I want it and fill it for real.
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Old 08-03-2010, 02:00 AM   #122
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Don't ya love how skimmers don't come with instuctions????? I guess I'll just plug mine in and hope it works like it's suppost to.

Your stand goes so well with your home's woodwork.

I know you're busy now but can you go back to the drawing of your pipes and show what Jimbo is saying? Or what you finally end up doing to solve your noises.
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Old 08-03-2010, 10:52 AM   #123
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I'm sure he can furnish something better then my quick 2 min paint skillz.
but this is what we were saying, there is a 90 that goes from to back of your tank down to the sump, and you put a hole in there to allow air to enter the tube without it sucking it in from the overflow. (noisy) Instead of that 90, install a T and a short piece of tubing up and cap that, then drill through the cap and the inside tube, that way you can twist the cap to control how much of the hole is open. How much air you put in there controls how fast everything drains, and you just fiddle with that till you get it right.

Make sense? I can make some models in solidworks to better illustrate what i'm saying...just feeling lazy this morning.
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Old 08-03-2010, 11:08 AM   #124
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cap, yeah... GRRR! How hard is it to put some instructions in the box??? I was able to find some online instructions.... They were almost useless though.... I was confused though, it said "water level should be adjusted so that it is not covering the outlet pipe".... So I assume the pipe should be out of the water? Or do they mean the entire length of pipe? It will add to the noise level by keeping it out of the water and I don't understand the benefit of doing that. Anyway....

Jimbo basically did a great job explaining what we were talking about. Last night I had other things to do so I didn't try drilling any holes... But the drawing on the left with that 90 fitting is the plan... The "T" on the right would be the way I would go now if everything was not glued in.
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Old 08-03-2010, 11:14 AM   #125
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The "T" on the right would be the way I would go now if everything was not glued in.
Oops, sorry again

Skimmers are pretty easy actually. the main body should be submerged 8-10 inches and there is a large output pipe that stays above that. On mine, you move that pipe up and down to control how it skims. They almost always need a break in period of around 2 weeks or so before they really start doing what they are made to. Just keep adjusting it for a couple weeks and eventually it will lock itself in.
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Old 08-03-2010, 11:36 AM   #126
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Skimmers are pretty easy actually. the main body should be submerged 8-10 inches and there is a large output pipe that stays above that. On mine, you move that pipe up and down to control how it skims. They almost always need a break in period of around 2 weeks or so before they really start doing what they are made to. Just keep adjusting it for a couple weeks and eventually it will lock itself in.
Yeah Ive had skimmers before... And this skimmer performs best between 6-10 inches which is why I attached feet as my skimmer chamber is 11" deep. My outlet pipe extends below that water line so I guess I will have to cut the pipe as there is not enough adjustment to get it above the water line. I wonder why it must be above the water line?

The "break in" period I have read is not really about breaking anything in...makes sense when you think about it... what is there to "break-in"? Its a bunch of acrylic parts...From what I have read the break in period is actually a way for the skimmer to be cleansed and coat it self with a type of slime which makes it more conducive to producing skimmate... The instructions suggest the "break-in" period taking 3-4 weeks. I have read that some guys will give the skimmer a vinegar bath to speed up the break-in period.
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Old 08-03-2010, 11:41 AM   #127
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Yea, but slime-over sounds weird. lol.
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:02 PM   #128
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Yea, but slime-over sounds weird. lol.
Good point! :p

So Jimbo, have you done the mesh mod before? Trying to figure out if I can use my paddle wheel to attach my mesh to... I am guessing that I would just cut off the paddle and drill holes through the wheel to tie the mesh on... most use the pin wheel for the mod but I don't want ruin my pin wheel incase I ever want to go back to it.
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:22 PM   #129
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I've never done it, I would see if you could order an extra impeller for you skimmer and do it. that way you could do some experimenting and compare the two and let us know :p
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:29 PM   #130
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I've never done it, I would see if you could order an extra impeller for you skimmer and do it. that way you could do some experimenting and compare the two and let us know :p
Well I have a pin wheel and the paddle wheel. I found a photo (fuzzy but...) of a paddle wheel being used.. but no instructions etc... I think I will try to do the mod with that wheel so I still have my pin wheel.
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