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Old 04-30-2006, 11:24 PM   #1
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Update: Sump Pics

Well, I finally got my sump up and running today. Things are pretty tight in the cabinet below the tank (as you can see). The only piece of hardware I plan on adding in the short term is an auto topoff system which will be plumbed to my RO/DI system in the next room.

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Old 05-01-2006, 10:52 AM   #2
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Tight fit but it looks good, you may even be able to squeeze an auto-top-off above the sump or fuge
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Old 05-01-2006, 01:01 PM   #3
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Thanks. To save space, I think I am going to plumb the autotopoff directly to the RO/DI unit in the next room. If I am correct, I should only have to make room then for the solenoid and float switches. Due to the inherent risks associated, I am wiring the system into a GFI. I will also incorporate double solenoids as well as a backup shutoff switch to prevent overflow.

How does that sound?
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Old 05-01-2006, 01:17 PM   #4
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Sounds good but does your ro/di need to run constantly to make water or will the solenoid only turn it on/off as needed?

GFCI is always a good idea and only takes about 15 minutes to swap out the electrical outlet. I used a 20 amp Cooper GFCI Outlet which I liked because it has a light that tells you if you wired it correctly. (which I didn’t the first time ) That outlet has the hot/neutral on top and if you have a load going to other circuits it goes on the bottom.


I got mine from Lowes.
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Old 05-01-2006, 01:34 PM   #5
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Is there an Amperage per piece of equipment..? I know a heater draws more, so is there a minimum or maximum? For all my lights, heaters, PHs and filter? Or would a 20Amp work just fine?


Thanks!
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Old 05-01-2006, 02:02 PM   #6
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The default amp rating for most home outlets is 15 amp I think. The highest CFCI I found was 20 and its working fine. I have 2 ph, 2 heaters, lights, & sump pump hooked up to two powerstrips both plugged into the GFCI. Each equipment piece should have both the watts and amp load needed but your average aquarium shouldn’t exceed the limit of the basic outlet.

The formula for calculating amps is to divide the wattage by the current load of the circuit 115.

For example a 175W MH light draws about 1.5 amps per light. A 300W heater draws about 2.6 amps.

If you had a 55 gal tank with 500W of light, 600W of heaters (two) and 60W total from the pumps your looking at a total of 1160W and about 10 amps of draw.

If you are exceeding the amp rating of the circuit then you should blow a breaker before it’s an issue and if so then plug into more then one circuit.

See Power Budgeting for Aquarium Systems for more info.

P.S. Keep in mind that often the circuit you plug your aquarium into is also shared with other circuits and or lighting.
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Old 05-01-2006, 02:20 PM   #7
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Cool, thanks! I'll hook two up this weekend!
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Old 05-01-2006, 02:58 PM   #8
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So far (fingers crossed) I have not exceeded the AMP limit on the circuit which is shared by other outlets. However, I am considering running a dedicated line/breaker (in addition to the GFCI) to the tank.

Quote:
Sounds good but does your ro/di need to run constantly to make water or will the solenoid only turn it on/off as needed?
If I am correct, the solenoid will turn off the supply as needed. I intend to place a T-Connection in line with a separate valve so I can make large batches for water changes as needed.
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Old 05-01-2006, 05:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentman
If I am correct, the solenoid will turn off the supply as needed. I intend to place a T-Connection in line with a separate valve so I can make large batches for water changes as needed.
That's just what I've done. The system I have from autotopoff works great so far.

Only had it hooked up three days, but so far, so good.
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Old 05-01-2006, 06:32 PM   #10
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Did you use 1 or 2 solenoids?
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