20g Long w/ 24w T5HO

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imo, WPG is no longer an accurate measurement past t-12 bulb technology. Especially considering the light output of t5ho over t12/t8 or even t5no.
I just suggest @ the op to keep doing research, hit a few of the planted tank forums and poke around to get more opinions before you start investing time and effort so you really know what you are getting into.

Well I have been. Fort and Rookie both suggested that I use one T5HO bulb and an Antinic bulb which provides no useable light to the plants and then adjust the period to light but I will keep on asking opinions.
 
imo, WPG is no longer an accurate measurement past t-12 bulb technology. Especially considering the light output of t5ho over t12/t8 or even t5no.
I just suggest @ the op to keep doing research, hit a few of the planted tank forums and poke around to get more opinions before you start investing time and effort so you really know what you are getting into.

I'm not disagreeing with you. T5 lighting is more efficient than other sorts of lighting..and yes, there are many factors that influence lighting in any specific tank including the type/brand of bulb, reflectors in the fixture being used, distance from hood to the tank, and the shape/reflectivity of of the tank's walls. Plus, most believe that small tanks will need more lighting while larger tanks will need less. What I am saying is that it is possible to have 48w over a well planted 20 gal and not have huge algae issues.
 
Well I have been. Fort and Rookie both suggested that I use one T5HO bulb and an Antinic bulb which provides no useable light to the plants and then adjust the period to light but I will keep on asking opinions.

Fort gives good advice and has experience with planted tanks. Running the actinic will not hurt your plants, it's just not as good for plant growth as say another 6,500-10K bulb or a roseate bulb might be. If you are worried about 48w being too much light, then run the actnic.
 
Step 1 competed...ready for filter that is on the way.

Anyone know what kind of snail in the center of the picture? I am hoping it is a MTS since I have sand substrate.

Sorry for the quality of the picture...shell is like a cone on the end.
 
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I can't really tell from your pic...If it came in on your plants, it's probably a pond snail.

The sand looks nice!!
 
looks like a blurry pond snail to me. I like where that tank is setup, i bet it'll look great.

Filled up the tank, put a heater inside, could not find ammonia yet so threw in a little fish food, pulled an Aquaclear 30 off my 10g and started filtering hoping for a quick cycle. As soon as my lights come, I will take all my stem plants from my 10g and put them in. The water has cleared quite a bit.
 
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Okay, just got back from Ace Hardware and have a bottle of Ammonia. Temperature is around 77. Dosing tomorrow morning and starting my journey. With an filter from my 10g, hoping for a quick cycle.
 
I put in 5 ml of ammonia in the tank in the morning, tested water in the afternoon and register no ammonia. I added another two table spoons and will test tomorrow morning. How much do you guys put in the tank to get it up to 4?
 
Aspencer said:
I put in 5 ml of ammonia in the tank in the morning, tested water in the afternoon and register no ammonia. I added another two table spoons and will test tomorrow morning. How much do you guys put in the tank to get it up to 4?

Nice tread!
If your ammonia is from ACE, normally is 10% concentration, for a 20G tank, no more than 3 ml will give you 4 ppm. So based in true math you overdosed the tank. But because you are using a "matured" filter, maybe you will see low levels now.

IMO and by my own experience, you don't need to re-cycle your new tank. If your 10G was fully cycled, your filter has already enough bacterias to process your actual bioload, even when you will be loosing the bacterias from the gravel (new gravel), you will keep the majority of the colony in the old filter.

I upgraded my tank from 26G to a 100G recently, I transferred all my fish in 24 hours after I set up the new tank, I also used new sand and my old filter, I never saw a spike in the ammonia or nitrites, and in just 4 days I started to read nitrates. I read also a lot of people doing the same with the same results.
In conclusion, just my opinion, you should not try to recycle the filter adding ammonia, as long as you don't increase the amount of fish immediately, your tank should be ready.
 
Right now I have my fish in the 10g I moved my filter from. I have no plants in the 20g. On Monday, I expect my lights to arrive and then I move my plants in and make sure my water parameters are correct.

I go in this morning to grade papers and check on the water. I did no want to lose my bacteria with no ammonia source. How long would the bacteria live in my filter if I have no ammonia source in the water?
 
Ammonia > 8.8 Dark Purple
NitrItes 0
NitrAtes >0

25% PWC

Vaccumed the sand for the first time and very pleasantly surprised that the sand was heavy enough not to get sucked up! Looks like the right sand.
 
Ammonia > 8.8 Dark Purple
NitrItes 0
NitrAtes >0

25% PWC

Vaccumed the sand for the first time and very pleasantly surprised that the sand was heavy enough not to get sucked up! Looks like the right sand.
Remember 3ml will give you the 4ppm of ammonia.

Again, I truly believe that if you will move the cycled filter, you don't need to go to the route of adding ammonia.

The bacteria can go up to three days with no ammonia.

IMO you should do a massive water change to drop the ammonia to less than 1ppm, move the old filter, let it sit for 24 hours in the new tank, then read the levels, which I will expect to be 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrites, and less than 5 Nitrates, and then move your fish and plants....

Again is just based in my own experience.
 
Just finished another 50% water change...ammonia test was so dark, I could not even see through the tube...I guess I put too much in...I will test in a couple of hours again.
 
Aspencer said:
Just finished another 50% water change...ammonia test was so dark, I could not even see through the tube...I guess I put too much in...I will test in a couple of hours again.

Yes you did. Based in my calculation you added (5ml +2tbs) around 15 to 16 ppm of ammonia.
 
Yes you did. Based in my calculation you added (5ml +2tbs) around 15 to 16 ppm of ammonia.

My 20g long has 3 inches of sand...by my estimate I probably have 15 g of water..

Yesterday, I changed water 3 times...4 gallon PWC...wait 2 hours and tested...4 gallon PWC...wait 2 hours and tested...wait 2 hours and tested...5 gallon PWC.

This morning tested and still very dark...7 gallon PWC...test in half an hour
 
Aspencer said:
My 20g long has 3 inches of sand...by my estimate I probably have 15 g of water..

Yesterday, I changed water 3 times...4 gallon PWC...wait 2 hours and tested...4 gallon PWC...wait 2 hours and tested...wait 2 hours and tested...5 gallon PWC.

This morning tested and still very dark...7 gallon PWC...test in half an hour

Man!!
Keep trying, you should get close.

And it true, wait before you tested to avoid a false reading from the chloramine from the tap water.
 
Dark but just a bit lighter green this time...just finished a 10 gallon PWC and will test tomorrow morning...
 
Ok, ammonia down to a manageable level...see through green...between 8 and 5...no just waiting...
 
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