Got my master kit need help! Levels

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Is the tank cycled? Did you shake the bottles really well? Besides that what are you asking haha?
 
It doesn't sound like your tank is cycled. Ammonia and nitrite should be below .25 ppm if they're not then you should do a pwc.
 
Chasnkevin4ever said:
Nothing I just have no idea how to lower or higher ph etc. What do I do if the tank is cycling?

I wouldn't really worry about the ph. As long as it's kept constant the fish should adapt.
If you already cycled your tank, then it's likely a mini cycle. Do a large pwc whenever ammonia and nitrite go above .25 ppm.
 
What if its cycling again?
Doesn't matter. You still need to do the water changes. The ammonia could kill the fish, so you need to do pwc to lower the ammonia level. It does seem that your tank is cycling for whatever reason, so you will have to be diligent in changing the water so the ammo level doesn't get too high. :) Water changes do not stall the cycle, and the fish will continue to excrete ammonia to help the cycle along. :)
 
Okay so the ammonia needs to be .25 or below? How often do I need to check the levels on the tank? How often do I do the water changes to get down to the right level? Anything I need to know that I haven't asked would help. What about the nitrite, why is it so high?
 
Chasnkevin4ever said:
What is the difference between the ph test and high range ph test?

High range just can't be detected with the other ph test bottle there's really no difference.
I would check the levels once or twice daily and do water changes whenever ammonia and nitrite are over .25 ppm.
 
How long has the tank been set up? Have you replaced any of the filter media lately? Changing the media could cause a mini cycle.
 
The high range pH test is for levels above what the normal pH kit shows. If the normal one gives you a reading...you don't need to worry about the high range.

I don't mean to be rude...but over several threads you've been linked the same cycling guides several times. They show you how to deal with these cycling issues, and do a great job at explaining what causes them as well as how to solve them.

We're all happy to help...but there's really nothing that can be said which isn't already covered in the information that's been given to you numerous times.

If this tank has fish in it...test every day and do water changes however often and however large is necessary to keep the toxins below .25. Here, again, is the guide for it- http://www.aquariumadvice.com/artic...g-but-I-already-have-fish-What-now/Page2.html

If this is the tank which had the DP which died and is currently empty...here is how you cycle the tank to make it safe for future fish- http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...guide-and-faq-to-fishless-cycling-148283.html
 
The high range pH test is for levels above what the normal pH kit shows. If the normal one gives you a reading...you don't need to worry about the high range.

I don't mean to be rude...but over several threads you've been linked the same cycling guides several times. They show you how to deal with these cycling issues, and do a great job at explaining what causes them as well as how to solve them.

We're all happy to help...but there's really nothing that can be said which isn't already covered in the information that's been given to you numerous times.

If this tank has fish in it...test every day and do water changes however often and however large is necessary to keep the toxins below .25. Here, again, is the guide for it- I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?!

If this is the tank which had the DP which died and is currently empty...here is how you cycle the tank to make it safe for future fish- http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...guide-and-faq-to-fishless-cycling-148283.html


+1. Read the articles.
 
How long has the tank been set up? Have you replaced any of the filter media lately? Changing the media could cause a mini cycle.

The tank has been setup for about six months. I just put some new driftwood that I boiled and soaked in it and the tank got cloudy. And yes I use to change my filters media everytime is got dirty but I learned a couple of days ago not to change it but once a month and to clean in water from tank. Thanks.
 
And just to let everyone else know I understand the fishless cycle for ten gallon, I am trying to figure out why my 20 g decided to get cloudy when I put in my new driftwood I boiled and soaked it, could the new decor be causing a mini cycle. And Eco all the info I have been getting from everyone I'm still trying to put everything together and learn how to do these tests. It's just all really confusing but I am catching on :)
 
Chasnkevin4ever said:
The tank has been setup for about six months. I just put some new driftwood that I boiled and soaked in it and the tank got cloudy. And yes I use to change my filters media everytime is got dirty but I learned a couple of days ago not to change it but once a month and to clean in water from tank. Thanks.

I'm sorry if you know but the way this reads you are still replacing the filter media every month? Don't replace it until it is literally fall apart. Even then, put the new media right up against the old for 2-4 weeks so the bacteria have time to move to the new stuff. Then your right to toss the old media.
Again, sorry if I misunderstood.
 
I'm sorry if you know but the way this reads you are still replacing the filter media every month? Don't replace it until it is literally fall apart. Even then, put the new media right up against the old for 2-4 weeks so the bacteria have time to move to the new stuff. Then your right to toss the old media.
Again, sorry if I misunderstood.

Alright that's great to know thanks! If that will avoid the nasty cloudy water and mini cycles then I'm all for doing that. Also, when I add new fish to a new tank is it best (after cycled) to add one fish at a time or can I put two or three in at once?
 
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