Help please

[Stardaddy]

I know the hard water and ph is a little high but been told that some fish get used to a high ph level

 

[BigRedsReefs10]

I can't really tell what's what on that test but what you should be aiming for is 0 ppm of ammonia and nitrite, and less than 20ppm nitrate ( I personally keep mine between 5-10ppm). Does that look like what your test is telling you? Most likely not if you've never done a wc. So I would do a 40 - 50 percent change a day until you hit these numbers

 

[Stardaddy]

I'm not sure if I send a pic of the pot will you help me please

 

[Stardaddy]

There is 3 off the pot and one of test

 

[BigRedsReefs10]

I've never used that test personally I use an API fw master kit for my fw tanks. Do you see the spot on the test for ammonia , nitrite and nitrate? That's what you should really be concerned about

 

[BigRedsReefs10]

Okay no2 is nitrite and no3 is nitrate I don't see an ammonia test on that kit am I just missing it?

 

[Mebbid]

The biggest test on there that you are missing and by FAR the most important one is Ammonia or NH3. Assuming the LFS you took your water to doesn't have an ammonia test (using test strips) either then you have a problem.

The first step of breakdown of waste and food turns into ammonia. This is a HIGHLY toxic form of fish waste that will undoubtedly kill your fish. After a period of time (a few weeks) bacteria will begin to break down ammonia. The next step after the ammonia is consumed is Nitrite. The bacteria that eat ammonia basically poo nitrite. The nitrite is another highly toxic chemical in the water that gets eaten by another type of bacteria which then becomes nitrate.

So basically, Fish waste => Ammonia => Nitrite => Nitrate

If you aren't seeing any nitrite (NO2) or nitrate (NO3) on the test kit then you will undoubtedly have ammonia in your water. The best way to get rid of ammonia is a water change so you need to do a 50% change asap and go buy a liquid test kit that allows you to read ammonia. After you buy the ammonia test kit (API Master test kit preferred) you need to keep your ammonia reading no higher than .25ppm and do a water change every time it rises above that.

 

[BigRedsReefs10]

Looking at the first pic again it looks like you have a nitrite reading close to 5ppm and that is very bad. Do you have the necessary equipment to do a water change ( gravel vac , bucket, water treater )?

 

[BigRedsReefs10]

Here's what I would do
1. Large water change asap
2. Continue to do 40-50% changes daily or every other day until those numbers come down.
3. Get an api master kit they're only $35 and easier to read than the tetras and have an ammonia test

Unfortunately i think your tank is cycling now so if you can temporarily rehouse the fish in an existing tank until the cycle finished that would be best. If not frequent wc's to help the fish survive the cycle

 

[Stardaddy]

Yes I do and I really didn't no that so I need to bye a API kit to test for amm and yes the first one has a little colour on it so what do I need to do to sort it out

 

[Stardaddy]

Would that be why I have lost a few preganat guppies then ??

 

[BigRedsReefs10]

Probably, and if you don't want to buy the master kit I'm pretty sure they sell the ammonia one separate. But the ammonia test is very important so I would pick one up

 

[Stardaddy]

Yer I just have I've just order one should be with me tues would that be ok

 

[BigRedsReefs10]

Ya I would think so just start doing your water changes. Have you ever done a water change before?

 

[Stardaddy]

No I haven't that what I was trying to say today mate that why I'm asking a lot I know I'm a pain in the butt but as I said it's not for me it's for the boys and I thought get then so nice fish

 

[Mebbid]

As was suggested no less than 7 or 8 times in this thread alone you need to do a 50% water change. Siphon out the old water and replace with fresh dechlorinated water that matches your tanks temperature.

 

[Stardaddy]

So the best think for that is like room temp

 

[BigRedsReefs10]

I turn my faucet to a little past the midway point and let it warm up a little hotter than your tank is okay but colder will shock your fish especially with large changes. Then add my water conditioner and let it sit for a few mins while I siphon out the water. To vacuum the gravel place the vac all the way into the bottom and wait until the water coming up the siphon clears and then move it and repeat. I think you should do 50% changes/vacs for a few days and test daily until you get you params in check

 

[molliwopp]

If youve lost fish its almost certainly ammonia or nitrite. Seeing a nitrite reading is good though because it means some of the bacteria needed is starting to establish itself. At the same time if youve lost fish the others are hanging by a thread. You can use alittle boiling water from your kettle to warm the water to the temperature of the tank or use hot and cold from the tap obviously making sure to dechlorinate the water. Change half of the tanks water, DO NOT be tempted to clean the filter.

Matching the temperature is easy and youll be able to get it close enough with your fingers alone.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Aquarium Advice mobile app

 

[Stardaddy]

Yer that sounds easy if I do that tonight would it make it any better