Starting out on Fishless Cycle - I have some questions

[jonnyep]

I bought a starter 37g tank from Petsmart, their Topfin brand, that came with a 200w heater, a powerfilter 40, and some sample conditioners and food. Based on advice I read in these forums, I added a master test kit and a Python, an air compressor with an airstone and a bubble wall, some plastic plants, live plants, ornaments for fish hiding spots and lastly my son chose a SpongeBob Pineapple undersea dwelling!

We'll probably start with some Platies once the water is ready.

We did some initial tests and found 0.25 Ammonia, 7.8 Ph, no tests for Nitrite or Nitrates

See the attached photo.

1 day after the initial setup I added 2 live plants and put in about a half cup of crushed coral.

Question 1) I neglected to rinse the crushed coral. When I put it in the tank yesterday it clouded up the whole tank. 12 hours later it was still cloudy. I shut off the air pump for the day, but left the filter running, with the hope that the "dust" would settle down.

Any ideas on fixing this?

Question 2) I want to start the nitrogen cycle by adding ammonia, but I really have no idea about how much to start with. I realize that store-bought ammonia is really an ammonia solution with no consistent mix of ammonia to water, but I need some kind of base amount to start with.

Should I be trying 10ml or 25ml for my 37g tank? Any ideas?

How long should I wait after adding the ammonia before taking a test sample?

The ammonia I bought was from the supermarket, a house brand labeled "clear ammonia" with no ingredients listed on the label. Should I be concerned that this solution isn't pure?

Question 3) I am confused about how to de-chlorinate the water when doing a PWC. Let's say I take out 10g and want to add in 10g of fresh tap water. Do I just add it straight from the tap and then drop in a tablet that is supposed to condition 10g? I just want some assurance that this won't destroy my bacteria. Is there a particular product anyone can recommend?

Many thanks, this is a great community!

 

[librarygirl]

I bought a starter 37g tank from Petsmart, their Topfin brand, that came with a 200w heater, a powerfilter 40, and some sample conditioners and food. Based on advice I read in these forums, I added a master test kit and a Python, an air compressor with an airstone and a bubble wall, some plastic plants, live plants, ornaments for fish hiding spots and lastly my son chose a SpongeBob Pineapple undersea dwelling!

Great start so far! You may want to invest in a second filter as well, you can never have too much filtration. I'm not very familiar with the PowerFilters, maybe someone else will have better advice on whether that alone is sufficient for the tank.

We did some initial tests and found 0.25 Ammonia, 7.8 Ph, no tests for Nitrite or Nitrates.

Hm, I wonder where the ammonia is coming from. Have you tested your tap water? If not, it's usually a good idea to test your tap water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate just to see if you have any levels of these.

1 day after the initial setup I added 2 live plants and put in about a half cup of crushed coral.

WHy did you add crushed coral? Usually in Freshwater tanks that's only used to alter PH, as far as I know. Your PH at 7.8 is fine.

Question 2) I want to start the nitrogen cycle by adding ammonia, but I really have no idea about how much to start with. I realize that store-bought ammonia is really an ammonia solution with no consistent mix of ammonia to water, but I need some kind of base amount to start with.

There is a formula somewhere and this site has a calculator (scroll down to the bottom). It depends too on the size tank and the type of ammonia. Barring anything else you can always just add small amounts (small meaning a few drops at a time!) and keep testing and as you go count the drops and then when you reach your desired ammonia level, you'll know how many drops it took. It's better to add slowly and test than to add too much and have to do a water change to bring it down.

How long should I wait after adding the ammonia before taking a test sample?

I don't know if there's a set time, it might depend on how large the tank is too. Mine is a 20 gal and I usually wait 30-45 minutes before testing, although I could be waiting longer than necessary but I figure it's better to err on the side of caution.

The ammonia I bought was from the supermarket, a house brand labeled "clear ammonia" with no ingredients listed on the label. Should I be concerned that this solution isn't pure?

Hm, I'd be a little suspicious. Look closely on the label: does it say anything about surfectants, dyes or perfumes? Does it foam when you shake it? If it does don't use it. The safest bet would be to find an ACE Hardware and use their brand if you can.

Question 3) I am confused about how to de-chlorinate the water when doing a PWC. Let's say I take out 10g and want to add in 10g of fresh tap water. Do I just add it straight from the tap and then drop in a tablet that is supposed to condition 10g? I just want some assurance that this won't destroy my bacteria. Is there a particular product anyone can recommend?

Yep, Prime is the best. Most pet stores etc have it so it shouldn't be hard to find. It's a liquid, not a tablet. What you would do is add some to the bucket of tap water you're replacing and then add it to the tank. If you use the Python you'll be adding tap water directly from the tap to the tank, so in that case you would add the Prime to the tank itself, enough to treat the whole tank not just the water you are replacing, and then fill up the tank with the Python. It's always better to add more dechlorinator than you might need than too little.

Many thanks, this is a great community!

You're welcome and good for you for researching and doing a fishless cycle! Post any questions you have along the way and we'll be glad to help!

 

[tinkster87]

re ammonia there is a website with a calculator somewhere I'll try and find it.

There is a shake test for bottle ammonia, its somthing like: give it a good long shake then squirt abit out if it foamy then its not good but if it still comes out like liquid its fine.


What decholrinator are you using? Seachem Prime seems to be the pick of the best, none of my locals had it but got some off ebay. I think if you take water out then put water in and then put dechlorinator straight in you should be fine. (get that confirmed by someone else first!)

I think a good 30 minutes after adding ammo will give it long another to get swished around the tank ready to be tested.

Hopefully someone else can confirm all these things as only a newbie myself.

LibraryGirl beat me to posting the link

 

[jonnyep]

Thanks LibraryGirl and Tinkster.

One more question: My power filter came with an extension tube to make it lower, but it is still about 8 inches above the gravel. Is there a general rule of thumb for livebearers to have the intake tube a certain distance from the gravel?

 

[jetajockey]

no, the intake tube is fine where it's at. Did your kit come with a sample of tetra safestart by chance? I saw those in some of the new topfin kits last time I was at petsmart.

 

[jonnyep]

Hi JetaJockey,

Yes the kit came with 2 packets of a liquid that I think was Tetra SafeStart. I purchased a box of something else that I think was by Tetra in the form of fizz tabs, 1 for every 10 gallons and used that once my tank was full. I'm headed out to buy some Prime today.

 

[jetajockey]

Great. Use it according to the directions and hopefully it will speed things along for you.

 

[severum mama]

Welcome!!!

I'd chuck a raw shrimp in there and let it roll... but if you want to go to the trouble of dosing, that will work too.

 

[jonnyep]

WHy did you add crushed coral? Usually in Freshwater tanks that's only used to alter PH, as far as I know. Your PH at 7.8 is fine.

I added crushed coral because one of the two stickies that advise on fishless cycling recommended it. Before I added it I think my Ph was closer to 7.0. Ph is now 7.5 but the tank is cloudy. I'm just hoping that will go away over the several water changes I will do before fish show up

Hm, I'd be a little suspicious. Look closely on the label: does it say anything about surfectants, dyes or perfumes? Does it foam when you shake it? If it does don't use it. The safest bet would be to find an ACE Hardware and use their brand if you can.

Thanks for the extra warning, I took a much closer look at the bottle. Yesterday I swore there were no ingredients listed but now I can see very small print on the side that lists surfactants and stabilizers! Not going near my fish tank!

 

[Flash081]

Here's a great fish-less cycle guide from one of the members here.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...guide-and-faq-to-fishless-cycling-148283.html
I"m cycling my 40g right now and this is what I have been using with good success so far.

 

[librarygirl]

I added crushed coral because one of the two stickies that advise on fishless cycling recommended it. Before I added it I think my Ph was closer to 7.0. Ph is now 7.5 but the tank is cloudy. I'm just hoping that will go away over the several water changes I will do before fish show up.

Ah, gotcha! I think a natural ph of 7 would still be OK, but probably no harm in raising it a bit. The cloudiness should go away in time and with water changes, yes, nothing to worry about.

Thanks for the extra warning, I took a much closer look at the bottle. Yesterday I swore there were no ingredients listed but now I can see very small print on the side that lists surfactants and stabilizers! Not going near my fish tank!

Ooh, good catch!

 

[jonnyep]

I found the correct stuff at Ace hardware today, added 6.2 ml and 30 minutes later I had a nice green 4.0 ammonia reading

 

[FishieMomma]

I'm on day 9 of a rapidly progressing fishless cycle. I followed the above referenced article by Eco as closely as possible, maybe even exactly. I cranked the water temp to 84, added a long bubblebar for extra oxygenation which beneficial bacteria (BB) love, and got an ACTIVE filter (one already loaded with BBs) from www.AnglesPlus.com

It took two days for the filter from AP to arrive and cost about $6 for the filter and shipping. It's really helped. I did not use any instant-cycle stuff as that tends to cause unpredictable biological crashes from what I've read.

Good luck and keep asking questions!