Yes the refractometer is calobrated. I will chk it again. And no this is new spots. He was spot free when I moved him into the QT and for a week now. These are new spots and they are ick. Im really starting to get frustrated. I didnt expect to see this a week into the treatment.
Another Ick question...
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quarryshark
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The theronts may have already been there, you just could not see them in their early stage. They are not vunerable to the treatment until they reach the free swimming state and this can take some time.
Thats why we keep the hypo at treatment level for at least 4 weeks.
hang in there, this is not that out of the ordinary.
Thats why we keep the hypo at treatment level for at least 4 weeks.
hang in there, this is not that out of the ordinary.
Quarry
I went ahead and recal my refrac and it was right on. I guess I was expecting to see no ick spots once I got the salinity down. But I did confirm that the level is 1.010 (I think 14 PPT). Temp is 80. Im hanging in there after thinking about it. Just very frustrating that all of this could have been avoided if I would have just thought to dip the corals. Thanks for the encouragement!!
I went ahead and recal my refrac and it was right on. I guess I was expecting to see no ick spots once I got the salinity down. But I did confirm that the level is 1.010 (I think 14 PPT). Temp is 80. Im hanging in there after thinking about it. Just very frustrating that all of this could have been avoided if I would have just thought to dip the corals. Thanks for the encouragement!!
quarryshark
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Hey, was wondering how it was going.
I just shoot for the low side of that range, personal preference.
I just shoot for the low side of that range, personal preference.
Going well so far. Im steady at 1.010 now and the PH that was giving me a problem is at 8 so Im getting there. Do have a small nitrite issue though...its weird. I tested and it shows .1 to .2..no ammonia...less than 5 trates. I think I will lower the salinity to 1.009 and keep it there to feel more comfortable.
I syphon a little water each night to get the poop and left over nori in the tank out so it doesnt sit in there and rot. I dont know why I would have trites at all...I think I might use Prime just as a safeguard...any thoughts?
I syphon a little water each night to get the poop and left over nori in the tank out so it doesnt sit in there and rot. I dont know why I would have trites at all...I think I might use Prime just as a safeguard...any thoughts?
quarryshark
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Not familiar with it sorry.
S
steve-s
Guest
Prime will not remove the NO2 but it will detoxify it some. You may need to buy new test kits unless already using Seachems multitesters. The additive will skew most others giving a false positive for NH3 and NO2 after use. It will continue to do so for several weeks.
Cheers
Steve
Cheers
Steve
Ok so I tested my water with 2 different test kits. One is Aquarium Systems and it tested my trates at less than 10...trites at less than .2.
The other is TetraTest. My trites were at less than .3 and the trates are less than 10...As far as I can see I have no ammonia. I have one of the Seachem ammonia cards in the tank. All of my fish act fine.
I didnt have this issue when I was using copper several months ago. I have 2 seeded spounges in the tank and I used my main tank water when setting up the QT...what am I doing wrong? What do I need to do to knock these out? I syphon out a small pitcher of water each night and add new so I thought this would work great... I dont want poop and peices of nori sitting in the bottom rotting...please help OR am I just over reacting?
The other is TetraTest. My trites were at less than .3 and the trates are less than 10...As far as I can see I have no ammonia. I have one of the Seachem ammonia cards in the tank. All of my fish act fine.
I didnt have this issue when I was using copper several months ago. I have 2 seeded spounges in the tank and I used my main tank water when setting up the QT...what am I doing wrong? What do I need to do to knock these out? I syphon out a small pitcher of water each night and add new so I thought this would work great... I dont want poop and peices of nori sitting in the bottom rotting...please help OR am I just over reacting?
S
steve-s
Guest
You may never get rid of all the NO2 but ensuring it stays as low as possible is sometimes all you can do. Keep in mind this is not an ideal circumstance no matter how well prepared. The typical QT set up is no match for the proper biofiltration of a unhindered ecosystem.
BTW, when was the last time your sponges where rinsed in SW to remove debris?
Cheers
Steve
BTW, when was the last time your sponges where rinsed in SW to remove debris?
Cheers
Steve
Well I tested it this morning and its at .3 to .4.....get higher...should I do water changes every day? Should I do like bacteria in a bottle? Im going to rinse the sponges for sure as I didnt think about this. They have been in my sump for 6+ months now. I will rinse them in SW today. The fish are acting fine as well...any other suggestions? Im 2+ weeks into the QT so I have a long ways to go. ANy and all help is appreciated.
See above before reading this post....another question I have is I have more spounges in my sump from my main...Should I get them out - but the concern is the ick in there?? I would be brining something from my main to my QT...
S
steve-s
Guest
More water changes will help immensely. As far as your readings, have you added the water conditioner? If so, it could be what's causing your elevated readings. As I said, most test kit results will be skewed greatly by these "detoxifiers".fishman said:
Never mix anything from one tank to the other. Once treatment starts you can add nothing in terms of new livestock or items transfered from the main. In effectively puts you back at day one.
Cheers
Steve
Ok So I will continue with the water changes then I guess daily. I dont mind doing this I guess if it is what it takes...dont take a lot of time really.
No I have NOT added anything as far as water conditioner.....I just finished rinsing my spounges in new SW that I add to the QT tank. Plus just syphoned out a little pitcher of water out as well.
Should I add like Prime or something? what did I do wrong to cause this so I can avoid in the future? Will the bacteria eventually catch up to knock down the trites? How long does this take? Also lastly how much of a water change should I do daily for a 30 gallon?
Thanks Steve for all the help and patience...
No I have NOT added anything as far as water conditioner.....I just finished rinsing my spounges in new SW that I add to the QT tank. Plus just syphoned out a little pitcher of water out as well.
Should I add like Prime or something? what did I do wrong to cause this so I can avoid in the future? Will the bacteria eventually catch up to knock down the trites? How long does this take? Also lastly how much of a water change should I do daily for a 30 gallon?
Thanks Steve for all the help and patience...
Steve or Quarry
Well I was wrong....for some reason my QT is going through a mini cycle. I have ammonia of .5 and trites of .2 and less than 10 trates. SO, with this said I drove 60 miles to get some Turbo Start. The guy I deal with in the LFS store said this would be the only thing I could really do other than prime given that Im doing hypo and my salinity is at 1.009. Im in a vice for sure here. I dont know what else to do. I have NO idea why my tank would be cycling for sure since I did the same format as I did last time when I had a QT tank. I used water from my main, seeded spounges, etc....so I bought some "bacteria in a bottle" and prime. I have NOT used the prime yet. Im wondering if I should...
Please help...
Well I was wrong....for some reason my QT is going through a mini cycle. I have ammonia of .5 and trites of .2 and less than 10 trates. SO, with this said I drove 60 miles to get some Turbo Start. The guy I deal with in the LFS store said this would be the only thing I could really do other than prime given that Im doing hypo and my salinity is at 1.009. Im in a vice for sure here. I dont know what else to do. I have NO idea why my tank would be cycling for sure since I did the same format as I did last time when I had a QT tank. I used water from my main, seeded spounges, etc....so I bought some "bacteria in a bottle" and prime. I have NOT used the prime yet. Im wondering if I should...
Please help...
S
steve-s
Guest
Most likely from the recently cleaned sponge. Under normal circumstances it would not have been a concern but I always recommend using removed tank water when cleaning filter material. In a QT moreso. Even though you used SW, bacteria respond to changes in pH just as easily as FW. File that one away for future reference.
Your best resource right now is more water changes. 3x a day if needs be. It's the best way to control the toxic levels until things get back to normal. I would hold off on any additives for now. The "bacteria in a bottle" isn't going to do much.
Cheers
Steve
Your best resource right now is more water changes. 3x a day if needs be. It's the best way to control the toxic levels until things get back to normal. I would hold off on any additives for now. The "bacteria in a bottle" isn't going to do much.
Cheers
Steve
Im not questioning you at all, but rather trying to understand this...if I keep doing water changes, then this will only prolong the cycle wont it? Doesnt things like Prime work? And Turbostart?
Also I washed the spounges in new SW that I have been adding to my QT...its the same PH and temp....
Realistically what will happen? I have had a small spike before and simply used Prime and it took it down without any problems and lost no fish. I just dont see how things will get better with water changes as this is eventually going to make it worse wont it? Im very frustrated as you can tell. I have put a ton of work into this and its not working as it did last time. sorry for being a pain
Also I washed the spounges in new SW that I have been adding to my QT...its the same PH and temp....
Realistically what will happen? I have had a small spike before and simply used Prime and it took it down without any problems and lost no fish. I just dont see how things will get better with water changes as this is eventually going to make it worse wont it? Im very frustrated as you can tell. I have put a ton of work into this and its not working as it did last time. sorry for being a pain
S
steve-s
Guest
Water changes do not impede, slow down or otherwise hinder nitrosomonas from forming unless the ammonia source is completely removed. All you will be doing is diluting it. Fish by nature excrete ammonia, it's the nature of the beast so to speak. Therefore your ammonia source is always present and the bacteria will be fed.
You can use the Prime if you wish it won't harm anything by any means. It will however hinder your ability to read accurate levels of NH3 and NO2 without a test kit that reads past the now altered (but not removed) toxins.
If you do the water changes instead, monitoring the levels as you go you will know when you have been successful and the bacteria is doing it's job.
Cheers
Steve
You can use the Prime if you wish it won't harm anything by any means. It will however hinder your ability to read accurate levels of NH3 and NO2 without a test kit that reads past the now altered (but not removed) toxins.
If you do the water changes instead, monitoring the levels as you go you will know when you have been successful and the bacteria is doing it's job.
Cheers
Steve
Ok so how much of a water change per day do I need to do?
What test kit do I need to monitor the water if I add Prime?
How long does it take to knock down the ammonia and such? I have been in this for 3 years and I guess the most frustrating thing is there are so many theories as to how to do things. I have always heard that if you continue to do water changes, this only prolongs the cycle from completing. Also do I wash the PVC off when it starts turning brown in the tank? Or do I leave it? Im afraid to do anything now. This is the worst thing I think that I have ever created. I didnt have this much trouble even my first year when I started. I guess its because I have read so much and it seems there are just so many things you can do wrong in this hobby and really only one way to do it right. And unfortunately you dont know its wrong until you have messed up.
Also my fish are acting as if nothing is wrong. its weird...
What test kit do I need to monitor the water if I add Prime?
How long does it take to knock down the ammonia and such? I have been in this for 3 years and I guess the most frustrating thing is there are so many theories as to how to do things. I have always heard that if you continue to do water changes, this only prolongs the cycle from completing. Also do I wash the PVC off when it starts turning brown in the tank? Or do I leave it? Im afraid to do anything now. This is the worst thing I think that I have ever created. I didnt have this much trouble even my first year when I started. I guess its because I have read so much and it seems there are just so many things you can do wrong in this hobby and really only one way to do it right. And unfortunately you dont know its wrong until you have messed up.
Also my fish are acting as if nothing is wrong. its weird...
S
steve-s
Guest
Do 20-25% water changes 2x a day until the ammonia doesn't register.fishman said:
Seachem's Multitest kits are best in these cases but a salicylate kit will work. You just need to be sure to take the reading immediately. You can read the FAQ here...
http://seachem.com/support/FAQs/Prime_faq.html
As I said, as long as there is an ammonia source (fish in this case) the bacteria will be fed so don't worry about that part. Understanding how bacteria feed and expell waste is where people get led astray in these matters. In regards to cycling in general, water changes will only affect the cycle if you remove the food/nutrient sources. Limiting them does not prolong or deter it in any way. As long as there is even trace amounts of ammonia registering, there is a food source. Having larger amounts of ammonia does not make a tank cycle any better.
Look at it this way. If you cycle a tank via the fishless method, you reach a certain ammonia level, it subsides then the nitrite and nitrate. That's the basics of the nitrification. The one thing missed by many is the ammonia source is usually also depleted by this time. Bacteria grows to meet the food source provided. So in the long run, it doesn't matter how much ammonia/nutrient you start out with. By the time a biological is added to the system the level of nitrosomonas and nitrobacter has diminished some anyway and must again "grow" to meet the new deman and each waste producing animal added afterwards. It is not "always present" in the numbers needed until the food source is provided.
If you are cycling in essence a dead tank from scratch, no LR or LS, water changes would be pointless simpley because there's no need.
If using fresh or not fully cured rock I would highly recommend water changes. You would not be removing the nutrient simpley limiting it's levels. It does not impeded a proper cycle in any regard but you would be preserving the much desired hitchikers and bugs within the rock.
Unless they are interfering with water quality, leave them be. A QT has very limited surface areas so baterial realestate is at a premium. Unlike the sponge they are not really pourus and do not trap debris. The algae growing on them is somewhat a good sign. It means the biofilter is actually maturing.
Cheers
Steve
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