QT Tank Specifications and lots of questions.

[cybercron]

Hello,

I am setting up a new QT tank and want to run my specifications by you, collectively speaking.

This new project is due to a major Ick outbreak I am currently experiencing. Now that I understand importance of a QT I am ready to invest in one.

I intend to move my Fluval 304 (260 GPH) and Aquaclear 400 (428 GPH) from my main tank to the new QT tank. Then I will install a MR-200 (400 GPH) wet/dry filter with a Mag Drive 950 (800 GPH) on my main tank.

Here are my proposed tank specs:

Main Tank 55 Gal:

MR-200 w/ Mag 950
FB 300 Fluidized Bed w/ Aquaclear 302
CSL 18 Watt UV sterilizer (Inline with Wet/Dry?)
Aqua-C Remora Pro
AZoo Bio-Denitrator

QT 55 Gal?:

Aquaclear 500
Fluval 304
CSL 18 Watt UV Sterilizer (Inline with Fluval)
Generic Venturi Skimmer

Now the questions:

1. Am i missing anything?

2. What size QT do I really need for 2x Eel Gobies, 1x Flame Gobi Red, 1x Mandarin, 1xi Clown, 1xi Royal Gramma.

3. Will my infected fish live for a few days while the parts are shipped to my house?

4. Can I put my UV sterilizer inline with a wet/dry filter?

Sorry for all the questions. I want to do this right the first time.

Thanks in advance,

Van

 

[pecan2phat]

Can't think of anything your missing for the QT except for some pvc pipe & elbow pieces that you can pick up @ home depot for hiding spots, don't think that you need a 55g for a QT, maybe just a 20g long would suffice, you will also need a heater.
Are you using copper or hypo-salinity for your QT treatment? If copper, than you need to turn off or not use the UV due to the UV light changes the property of the copper. (Also the protein skimmer if copper is used) You can have the UV running @ all other times though I think you might want a slightly lower flow rate than 260 gph.
Since the QT is unestablished & you might be using copper, than not having a biological bed is no big thing, you just need to monitor the NH3 & NO2 levels every other day during treatment. Be prepared with aged pre-mixed saltwater for 30% changes, hence the 20g vs 55g. You will also need to adjust the copper content.
I'm guessing that you might be going the route of Hypo due to the mandarin and goby's non affliction towards copper, if so disregard the UV & protein skimmer comment.
As for hooking up your UV in the main tank inline with your Mag, that would definitely be too much flow, you would need to pipe in a diverter with a ball valve to control the flow to the UV. Then I would suggest a flow meter to see how much flowrate is going to the UV. For all that hassle & cost, you can just do what I did on my 90g with sump: order a fluval 104 (106 gph) for $54 & run my 18 watt CSL UV @ a low flow rate for a higher "kill rate". It also serves as my carbon placement. (Carbon is more effective when water is pushed through it rather than flow around it)

 

[cybercron]

Thanks for the response.

I will take your advice and connect my UV into a device with a lower flow rate. I was going to try hyper salinity on the QT since the filters and water I intend to use are coming from an established tank. I was going to add an Aquaclear 302 with a floss quck filter that has been in my main tank for about a month. Do you think this will be enough to forgo an ammonia spike in the new tank? Finally if you think a 20 Gal will work for the number of fish I have to support I am all for it. I have been trying to figure out where I am going to put another 55 Gal tank

At this point I will spare no expense to save these fish!

Thanks,

Van

 

[cybercron]

Is a 200 gallon wet/dry overkill on a 55 Gal tank?

 

[pecan2phat]

Is a 200 gallon wet/dry overkill on a 55 Gal tank?

Not sure what you mean by 200g wet/dry. While I looked @ your profile, it seems that you have corals. I would think that you are not going to run bio-media in this wet/dry, correct?
If so, than this wet/dry would be like a sump for extra water content & water flow plus a place to put your heaters, probes, carbon etc. Your return pump should be @ least 500-700 gph return flow though.

 

[pecan2phat]

Thanks for the response.

I will take your advice and connect my UV into a device with a lower flow rate. I was going to try hyper salinity on the QT since the filters and water I intend to use are coming from an established tank. I was going to add an Aquaclear 302 with a floss quck filter that has been in my main tank for about a month. Do you think this will be enough to forgo an ammonia spike in the new tank? Finally if you think a 20 Gal will work for the number of fish I have to support I am all for it. I have been trying to figure out where I am going to put another 55 Gal tank

At this point I will spare no expense to save these fish!

Thanks,

Van

If you use a seeded filter (Aquaclear) and also all the water from your main tank, you should not go through much of a cycle. You should have aged water with the correct temp & pH ready anyway for the Hypo treatment. (RO-DI water if possible) You need to slowly bring the SG down to 1.009 and keep it there for 4 weeks. I would suggest not bringing down the SG to fast, something like .002 every 12 hrs. So if your @ 1.025, then it will take you 4 days to bring it down to 1.009. As you dilute the saltwater, this will also dilute any NH3 that might start to accumulate.
Don't forget to hook up your UV sterilzer, this will help with the swimming stage of the parasite. Also try to get a cheap single strip flourescent light for them, they still need night & day simulation, but @ a reduced lighting schedule for algae control. Remember, do not use any substrate or coral deco, just get the pvc plumbing pieces & elbows for them to hide & feel safe or they will stress out.
When your treatment is over you will need to bring the SG back up slowly to match the main tank before you transfer them. If you plan to keep the QT running, don't bother to lower the SG until your next purchase to see what the LFS or mailorder SG is. Hope this helps.

 

[cybercron]

While I looked @ your profile, it seems that you have corals. I would think that you are not going to run bio-media in this wet/dry, correct?

When you say bio media, do you mean the bio balls? What is the correlation between bio-media and corals. I was going to use is as is out of the box, balls and all.

I am looking at this as an upgrade to my main tank. Replacing the HOT and canister filters.

I will use the wet dry filter as a sump and I will be placing carbon and heaters etc. into this unit.

Thanks,

Van