Sick Cynarina Coral?

[mykpoz]

I recently picked up this coral.

It appears if part of it might be dieing.

What steps should i take, and are the pictures good enough to tell?

over all the coral looks wonderful and is fairly large when open supposed to be @6-8inches across.

the Xenia by it has already been moved... (noto sure if they do any softie warfair*

 

[steve-s]

Was the coral like this when purchased/same day as placed in the tank or some time later on?

Please post:

Water parameters
Chemistry
Lighting
Height of placement and surface/mounting
Water flow

Cheers
Steve

 

[mykpoz]

The coral was like this when purchased... it came from a very stocked tank... I say that it was that way in the old tank, but I didnt notice it to be honest, only when I transfered it from the bag to my tank did I see it.

Attached is a picture of it in the old tank..

tonight it appears as if the dead or damaged part is coming off, so I will definitely have to keep a eye on it

Water is

ammonia = 0 mg/l
nitrates <10mg/l
nitrites <.2 mg/l
pH 8.2
SG = 1.024
temp steady 80-82
lighting is a t5 2 actinics/ 2 10k on @12hours a day

height is about halfway up in tank, on the end (trying to get the least amt of light) for placement I have just sat the stoney branch in a hole of my LR it sits out a bit.

water flow is low

I was waiting on some carbon that I ordered online, but I have decided to pick up some carbon and a filter bag to run in the sump. Feeding sweepers came out tonight and readily snatched up some cyclop-eeze.

 

[mykpoz]

here is a picture of it when it retracted shortly after lights out...

Also, I purchased a Hammer from them as well, they mentioned that it wasn't doing so well in their main tank, and had moved it to a smaller softie tank a few days before I picked it up.

When I saw it at their house, it was not as full as the picture I originally saw, and after two days in my tank, it seems to have extended further out then what I saw in their tank. That sort of leads me to the theory something might be wrong from where it came.

 

[steve r]

just out of curiousity, do you have 3 tangs and foxface in a 75g?

steve r

 

[tripper]

No, that was the tank he got the coral out of, not his actual tank. He was showing a "before" picture.

 

[mykpoz]

No, that was the tank he got the coral out of, not his actual tank. He was showing a "before" picture.

correct!

I think that tank is 200 or 240 not sure... the whole tank is covered in corals though. It is still overstocked, but they are housing a refugee corals and fish from new orleans since Hurricane Katrina made their house un-liveable...

 

[steve r]

just curious. thanks

steve

 

[steve-s]

Definatetly damaged but I cannot tell if it's mechanical, handling or coral warfare related.

Recovery shouldn't be too much an issue as long as brown jelly infections don't set in. First step is getting rid of those nitrite readings. The level for NH3/NO2 should be undetectable. A few good water changes and watching the fish feedings should help immensely. It will also help lower the nitrate some which will lessen the chances of infection. You will also need to find out where your alk/Ca ratio is sitting at. Get that tested by your LFS in the interim but if you plan on keeping scleractinians, you really should purchase the kits needed.

I would suggest placing the coral directly on the substrate (hopefully sand) and off anything hard that can further irritate the flesh. Place so the damaged area is slightly higher and off the sand but not in any direct water flow. Feeding is a good step in recovery but I would suggest something a bit larger than cyclop eeze. Small meaty bits about the size of a pencil eraser 3-4 times a week presoaked in selcon or other [acronym="Highly Unsaturated Fatty Acid"]HUFA[/acronym] containing vitamin. You'd be surprised how much these types of coral will/need to eat.

What intensity are the T5's, 39 or 54 watt?

Cheers
Steve

 

[mykpoz]

The nitrites being <.02 are because the lowest reading is .02 and it is not near that color on the fastest kit. I would honestly assume 0.0 but i guess we can never be sure.

Last night after the post it did get a nice piece of the larger chunk of blender mush and it looked happy to a degree.

I will get the water tested tomorrow, and post the results.

I will look for the selcon, but honestly I have yet to see any around here in the LFS's.

The T5's are 54watt

 

[mykpoz]

just got back from the LFS

alk was just a tad over 180ppm
cal was 410
amonia = 0
nitrates/trites = 0
pH 8.2
SG 1.024

I stopped at 3 LFS's to look for the [acronym="Highly Unsaturated Fatty Acid"]HUFA[/acronym], but was unable to find any. Is there a brand that you reccomend? I will order it ASAP.

It is currently sitting on the sand bed, with the damanged portion elevated higher then the rest.

Thanks for the help thus far.

 

[steve-s]

Your numbers look good so as long as they stay stable and nothing irritates the coral further, it should recover. Be sure you keep up with the carbon and at least weekly water changes.

As far as the vitamin, [acronym="Highly Unsaturated Fatty Acid"]HUFA[/acronym] is an ingredient. Personally I prefer Selcon but there are others available.
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=AM1511
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=KM3671

Cheers
Steve

 

[Hara]

Kent Marine makes Zoecon...I find it more commonly in the stores than selcon for some reason.

 

[mykpoz]

update

heres an update...

The Cynarina is looking better everyday, thanks for the help...

on a side note, I also got a Branching Hammer from them, the same day.

Now it appears as if two of the stalks are receeding to a degree, but it seems to have around 8-10 other small branches that have started to sprout from its base....

Is there anything to do to help save the Hammer besides the spot feed with cyclop-eeze and the mush that normally goes into the tank....

running carbon
pH = 8.1
am=0
nitrates and trites = 0
calcium =410
alk = 180 ppm

lights are running @13 hours a day and its in the bottom third of the tank..

 

[steve-s]

Great news on the doughnut.

As for the hammer, I don't think it's the same issue. It's either too much light or too much water flow, can't really tell. I almost think it's too much light judging by which polyps are receeded the most. I would try lowering it some more and be sure the tentacles are not always blowing in one direction, moreso swaying gently.

As for feeding, use larger foods like mysis. You will most likely need to turn off heavy water flow equipment to do so. This coral will eat but tends not to catch thing easily so placing it as gentley as you can close to the mouth will yield the best results.

Cheers
Steve

 

[mykpoz]

yea, i've tried larger pieces of food, but the peppermint shrimp love to steal it from them...

any tricks for keeping them away besides fighting them with a turkey baster? ;P

 

[steve-s]

Use a large plastic pop bottle or milk jug and cut off the bottom. Clean well with hot water, no soap. Cover the coral, add the food via the top spout, screw the cap on loosely to keep out thieves.

Cheers
Steve