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Old 08-28-2013, 01:45 PM   #11
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I would say atleast a month with higher temps to speed up the lifecycle. I honestly would not opt for copper if possible. Its difficult to accurately dose it and maintain proper levels unless you additional tests and it (same as DTHP) is quite toxic. If your going to move them, try prazi at suggested doses along with increasing the salinity. If there is not marked improvement within a week or so, then you are welcome to try a DTHP or copper. Good luck!
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:52 PM   #12
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Thanks for the help. I absolutely loathe the use of copper and have been able to avoid it so far.
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:09 PM   #13
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"Could it be nitrate poisoning? I believe methylene blue along with water changes is the trick for that."

I'm glad I came upon this thread. I have one Gourami acting like that in my 55 gal. I tested my Nitrates and they were 80+ so I did a 50% water change and tested them again today and they are still around 70-80.
I have about 12 more fish in there who are all acting normal. Some are swimming at the bottom, some middle swimmers. No one else seems to be gasping for air.
Could it still be Nitrate poisoning? And what is Methylene Blue? I haven't heard of that.
Thanks for any help on this.
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:14 PM   #14
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Most fish handle copper ok, providing you dose as instructed. Dosing more is asking for trouble, and dosing less will only make whatever it is more likely to become resistant. Catfish are not quite a delicate as we sometimes believe them to be, though they are not the hardiest fish around, to be sure.

I read a study not long ago, on using salt to treat Ich in catfish, because it's thought they can't handle salt. But the study found the fish who recovered best were the ones getting a full dose of salt, compared to the other treatments used. It appears salt is a problem for them in the long term, rather than the shorter term needed to treat ich, assuming they are not so ridden with parasites they would die anyway.

And you might also consider using that pesticide mentioned in the earlier post, after the fish are moved, it would no doubt wipe out whatever is there. If it isn't sure to kill eggs, might have to repeat a time or two.. without knowing for certain what you are trying to wipe out, overkill is perhaps the better option, so long as fish are not in there.

I'd test it with a few stems or leaves of whatever you grow, to see if it affects them adversely. Dipping is usually not too bad, though it can melt some things, like Vals. They usually return from the crowns though, given time.

If it was me, I would leave your main tank without any livestock for a minimum of one month. I'd also boil the substrate and decor, dip the plants in bleach or hydrogen peroxide and water.

I had an infestation of fresh water leeches once, and I never did succeed in getting rid of them. This was decades ago, no treatments were available, and even boiling and bleaching everything did not kill their eggs. So they soon reappeared and I ended up tossing everything in that tank but the fish. No plants to speak of, and rocks were ok once scrubbed, but substrate and a piece of wood got tossed out.

So there are some parasites capable of producing eggs that can survive truly terrible conditions. Not unlike the ones brine shrimp or daphnia can produce. These will hatch as soon as good conditions return, so you also might wish to consider replacing the substrate, which is where such eggs are most likely to be.

If you don't want to use the pesticide, I'd keep the tank fairly warm, 80 +, which usually hastens life cycles. Most of the common parasites should be wiped out in a month, lacking any hosts. You might also want to boil and or bleach or both, the substrate and decor.

You'd have to maintain circulation with something, air stone or pump, if you are concerned the filter may harbour anything and didn't want to risk them surviving in there. If so, sanitize it, and either start over with fresh media, or thoroughly boil ceramic or sponges, which are tough enough to take it, and reuse. I doubt many eggs would be in a filter but if you don't know what the critter is, how can you be sure ? That's what would be making me crazy

Wish you luck.
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Old 09-05-2013, 01:38 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thursyanna View Post
"Could it be nitrate poisoning? I believe methylene blue along with water changes is the trick for that."

I'm glad I came upon this thread. I have one Gourami acting like that in my 55 gal. I tested my Nitrates and they were 80+ so I did a 50% water change and tested them again today and they are still around 70-80.
I have about 12 more fish in there who are all acting normal. Some are swimming at the bottom, some middle swimmers. No one else seems to be gasping for air.
Could it still be Nitrate poisoning? And what is Methylene Blue? I haven't heard of that.
Thanks for any help on this.
You will need to do water changes an hour or two apart till you get them below 20ppm. From then on, set a pwc schedule that will keep your levels below 20ppm (lower if your tank isn't planted). You can work out the schedule by daily testing to see at what rate your nitrates increase.
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Old 09-05-2013, 02:23 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thursyanna View Post
"Could it be nitrate poisoning? I believe methylene blue along with water changes is the trick for that."

I'm glad I came upon this thread. I have one Gourami acting like that in my 55 gal. I tested my Nitrates and they were 80+ so I did a 50% water change and tested them again today and they are still around 70-80.
I have about 12 more fish in there who are all acting normal. Some are swimming at the bottom, some middle swimmers. No one else seems to be gasping for air.
Could it still be Nitrate poisoning? And what is Methylene Blue? I haven't heard of that.
Thanks for any help on this.
Its a stain for dying cells for looking at them under a microscope. It kills microbes and is effective against fungus. It's sold in some of the larger fish stores but it can be hard to find. I had to drive an hour away to get mine. It's also cheap as dirt.
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