Pink spot on side of Tetra {IMAGE}

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grimlock3000

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The largest Tetra in my 10g tank did not eat tonight when I fed the fish. This fish goes well out of his way at every feeding to try and get as much food as possible, so the warning flag went off. I observed the fish for a while and it has light pink spot on one side of the fish, right where its stomach is. It does not look like the pictures I have seen of Ich, it looks more like a bruised area. No other fish in the tanks have this spot, or anything like it at all. I do not have a QT tank currently until the 26g cycles. Ideas?

Here is a pic to show where the spot is:

spot.jpg
 
Really hard to get a good look at it with that pic grim; sorry.

It COULD be a bruise; could also be a sign of infection. Is the area raised? Does it have any reddish streaking as well as color changes? Does the fish have any additional behavioral changes (listless, heavy breathing)?

My first response to anything is a water change. Whats your parameters today? I'd do a change regardless; clean fresh conditioned water is always a good thing. If nitrogenous waste levels have risen, it may be enough to stress him and make him susceptible to disease.

I'd keep an eye on him for the moment; check him in the morning and see if there are any changes in behavior or the lesion itself.
 
After a couple months of clear water, my 10g tank got cloudy, fast. The water went from clear to "WOW" in less than 12 hours while I slept. Since I have too many fish in the tank, this was bound to happen eventually. I did a 30% watter change then, and another 30% today along with cutting back on the feeding and everything is clearing up. I noticed the spot after changing the water today. I looks a lot like the fish has a swollen stomach, but it is not rasied and only on that one side. Probably is bacteria since it followed the cloudiness, but I have no QT tank. I thought about putting him in with the Cherry Barbs since I would potentially lose less fish if it spread and he would be less stressed with much more clean water to swim in. He is destined to go in the 26g tank anyway, if he makes it. Do you think it would be a good idea to move him to the larger tank ASAP?

I have an old filter sponge from the 10g in the 26g which should keep the ammo and nitrites to lower levels than they would be during a cycle.
 
Hrmm. Tough call.

I would grab a 5g Rubbermaid container, a cheap filter and maybe an aerator (unneccessary if the filter keeps the surface moving) and throw him in there. I think any exposure to nitrogenous waste could be an issue and stress him more; what are the levels in both tanks? Plus, you can treat him if the swelling turns out to be dropsy without mucking up the bacterial colonies in either tank and without having to expose the rest of the fish.
 
I just retested, 0 ammo, 0 nitrites, somewhere between 10-40 nitrates (I have a hard time with reds, gotta buy a different color when this test kit runs out).

Is it OK to have the fish in a tank w/o a heater? I think I can get a 3g tank at Wal Mart for like $15 or something really cheap. I will go check that out right now actually... Should I use tank water, or conditioned tap water?
 
I rubbermaind container, filter, and air pump were going to cost about $15, so I bought a Mini Bow 2.5 for the sick fish :)

//Got the Mini Bow 2.5 set up. What a crappy setup. First up, the filter is rated for 70 gph, and comes defaulted to the maximum setting so you would have a turnover rate of 28x an hour. Surface aggitation is terrible as well, and the hood stinks because it is partly see-through and partly not so it looks cheesy. The flip up part of the hood is so small you need to concentrate just to get flakes in it. I think the cheap hexagon tank with the UGF would have been a better choice because it had way more surface aggitation, and it was cheaper.

Anyway, I got the Tetra in the tank with mostly new conditioned tap water and some old water from the tank he came from. I caught the fish without a chase, I just put the net in the tank and waited for him to float over it, then lifted. Now that he is in the little tank, looks like his skin/scales are rotting away from around the spot. He is breathing really fast too.
 
Ack! NOT a bruise.

It really sounds like columnaris to me; is the number one infection in fish tanks. I grabbed this from www.fish-disease.com:

"Columnaris (a.k.a. Mouth Fungus)

Symptoms:

An infected fish will have off-white to gray cotton-like patches on the head, fins, gills, body and particularly the mouth. In time, these areas will develop into open sores. Gill swelling may occur, gill filaments may stick together and excessive mucus may develop in the gill area. Rapid breathing can be seen. Fins may deteriorate to the point of leaving the fin rays bare. Muscles may be inflamed and capillaries may rupture. Fish, particularly livebearers, may exhibit "shimmying". Infection may be acute (killing an infected fish within hours), or chronic (lingering for several days before eventually killing the fish). As with most diseases, not all symptoms need be present.
Cause:

The bacterium Flexibacter columnaris.

Treatment:

Ensure that your water conditions (e.g., Ammonia, Nitrite, pH, Nitrate levels, and water temp.) are within their proper ranges. If not, perform a water change and/or treat the water accordingly. Recommended medications include: Furanace, Fungus Eliminator, Fungus Cure, Furacyn, Furan-2, Triple Sulfa, E.M. Tablets, Tetracycline, or Potassium Permanganate. Medicated foods are also recommended. Columnaris can be highly infectious and may quickly kill all aquarium inhabitants; therefore, early treatment is essential. All fish, including those not yet showing visible symptoms, as well as the aquarium they inhabit should be treated."

I don't know if we can catch it in time; sounds like an acute case (since things are happening SO quickly). Any of the "cyns" will hopefully help (Maracyn and maracyn2, Kanacyn, Furacyn); you'll unfortunately need to treat the main tank too as its pretty virulent. If you can find medicated foods and he is willing to eat, even better. If not, theres a recipe for medicated foods here: http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/treatments/medicatedfood.htm . I had another site with other directions but can't locate it. Damn.

Grab some Bio-Spira too if you can; the meds will play havoc with your biological filter. As soon as the meds are cleared from the tank add it - it should help kick start the bacterial colonies.

*slaps self in head* Yeah, a heater would be necessary unless the room stays at over 80f. Can't believe I forgot that. However, check the tank temp, for 2 reasons. One, if theres a tank light it may keep the tank water at a decent temp and 2, I've read you DON'T want high temps for fish with bacterial disease (like you do for ich), as it may help it propagate. I don't know how true that last bit is; I mean, when we get an infection our temp goes UP to help fight it, but thought since I've seen it mentioned I should pass it along.

*edit*
Hah! Found it: http://aquariumhobbyist.com/artoffishkeeping/disease.html
 
I wish I read this thread before I went to work, now I am worried that my fish will be dead before I get home 8O I have Maracyn (Ethromycin) so I can treat it with that. My wife is home so I can try calling her and getting the medicine into the tanks...

The light on the Mini Bow tank seems to keep it pretty warm. If I can find my IR thermometer I will be able to get an exact measurement.

//Update: I got ahold of my wife and walked her through taking the carbon out of my Aqua Clear Mini, and putting the Ethyromycin/Maracyn tablets into both tanks in correct doses (1/4 tablet into the little tank, full tablet in the 10g). There are a few Guppy babies in the 10g tank, so my wife was really willing to help get the medicine into the tank to help them.

Should I move the Tetra back into the 10g and treat everything at once, or keep him seperate since he is the only fish showing blatant signs of disease?

I am glad I did not move the sick Tetra into the Cherry Barb tank.
 
Eeek. Didn't mean to upset you grim; I did want to emphasize how important it was to start treatment on your guy if it is columnaris tho.

Tell your wife I think she's an amazing woman for doing all that over the phone!

Good thing he wasn't moved; at least you only have 2 tanks to worry about and not 3. I'm thinking leave him in the QT tank; he's obviously ill, while the others aren't showing symptoms yet. Why take a chance? Plus, since theres nitrogen compounds in the 10g, it may stress him more (and its MUCH easier to just do daily water changes on a small tank like the Mini-bow to keep ammonia levels down; I doubt he'll be in there long enough with daily water changes to even start spiking nitrites). Only thing you need to keep in mind, is dose meds AFTER the water changes. I can't remember if Maracyn deteriorates after a day or so, so I'm unsure if you need to compensate for meds removed during the water changes. If it does, then no need to do any calculating; if it doesn't and the levels need to be maintained, adjust to dose to compensate (ie: if you remove half the tank water, half the dose you normally use and add that to what you put in regularly...so 1/4 tab plus 1/8 tab for the Mini-bow).
 
I was reading up some more and the fish _could_ have Dropsy because of his long white poop (which the fish never had before) and the close proximity of the spot to his stomach. I do not have enough Maracyn for a full treatment on both tanks, so I am thinking about a switch over to Tetracycline, which works for Dropsy and Mouth Fungus. Is that OK or switch medicines after my next water change, or do I need to keep up with Maracyn/Erythromycin, and then re-dose with Tetracycline if needed?
 
You know, they say never mix meds, but I'm thinking in this case it wouldn't be a problem (they are in the same family). I'd switch after the next water change and give it a go.

I also strongly suggest mixing some up into an oral medication if he is still eating; maybe using whats left of the Maracyn for that? Bacterial infections are systemic, and sometimes not enough antibiotic enters the body from the tank water.

And yeah, dropsy wouldn't be a surprise at this point. As you've probably read, dropsy generally isn't a disease unto itself, but a result of systemic infection as well as poor water conditions and poor nutrition. The kidneys start to falter and don't process the water out of the system efficiently, causing the fish to retain water until they bloat. For dropsy kanamycin is usually recommended.

If you don't have this page bookmarked, I suggest it: http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html . Is one of my fav "lets see whats wrong" pages along with fish-disease.com (and it has rather graphic pics LOL sorta gross, but I need visuals so it really helps). I just came across this article too: http://www.aquamaniacs.net/flex.html . It mentions tank temps and suggests temps remain below 75f; again, I don't know if this is scientifically verified, but it certainly wouldn't hurt.
 
Got home, the fish definitely appears to have Columnaris. His pink spot has turned whitish and cottonlike. I am going to go for the Tetracycline, since it seems to be a broader spectrum antibiotic in case the fish has Dropsy or something else as well.

Btw, thanks for all the help!
 
Not a prob grim :) I know you lurve your fishies as much as I do.

I had a lot of hand holding when my loaches came down with ich (which I treated with only high temps n salt! Not a single med *grin* fortunately one can do that with ich and loaches); I was a basket case! My poor babies *sniffle* I must have asked a zillion questions which were answered with patience and understanding :)

Least I can do is pass the help I got during my crisis LOL although you are much more calm cool and collected then I was LOL
 
My fish died after the white cottonlike growth spread up around his mouth. I really thought he was going to pull through since he was in the QT tank for 4 days and was near the end of his medicine treatment. The white stuff appeared to be receeding on day 3, then took over and killed him in about 12 hours. Damn :(

I feel confident that I did as much as possible when I had the chance, hopefully I can catch the next sick fish in time to save it. My 10g tank gets the last dose of medicine tomorrow, and luckily every fish in there still looks healthy :)
 
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