TMaier
Aquarium Advice Addict
Any recent pics? How are things filling in?
Delapool's 150 gallon tank
- Thread starter Delapool
- Start date
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OP
OP
Just wanted to add that it's great having the PROSCAN figure out the colour to number conversion instead of 4 family members staring at API colours that all look the same...
OP
OP
OP
OP
Last PAR reading was 110 (24/4), today's reading 91. Only thing is I don't think I had it quite in the same spot. Really need to find somewhere I can put it at depth and not floating under the bulbs somewhere - I think there is a glass attachment. Pondering still.
OP
OP
I can see the background plants starting to get over the central ornament and I've trimmed the red stem plants on the left once. The bolbitis seems happy but creeping sideways(?). Crypts are happy.
Java fern is not happy in spots - will see about a close-up shot. No algae, only a little GSA - yay!
Fish - er, still have some.
5th June
14th May.
4th April.
Java fern is not happy in spots - will see about a close-up shot. No algae, only a little GSA - yay!
Fish - er, still have some.
5th June
14th May.
4th April.
TMaier
Aquarium Advice Addict
Awesome. It's an adventure in there.
fishenthusiast
Aquarium Advice Addict
It's starting to get that forest look! Nice growth in there.
Looking good, you trimmed recently which removed the extra height of the red plants, yes?
The graph is a nice looking chart for light spectrum for growing the plants!!! 91 PAR?
The graph is a nice looking chart for light spectrum for growing the plants!!! 91 PAR?
OP
OP
Sorry for the delay, yes - trimmed the red plants and I've been nipping off the top growth so they branch out and thicken up. Water changes are so quick! Net a few leaves and that's it. I'll give it another few months and might (bwahaha!) swap a few plants around once I see what height they are going to get.
The Java fern is really happy in places and gets this very light white-green look. It kind of looks like the small tank which is high light and no ferts or CO2 so don't know if there is a lack of something or too much of something. Hoping it goes away
Will take any ideas - in the photos, anything that doesn't look dark green doesn't look quite normal.
The Java fern is really happy in places and gets this very light white-green look. It kind of looks like the small tank which is high light and no ferts or CO2 so don't know if there is a lack of something or too much of something. Hoping it goes away
Will take any ideas - in the photos, anything that doesn't look dark green doesn't look quite normal.
Caliban07
Aquarium Advice Addict
Most likely a deficiency. Iron, nitrogen, magnesium. It could also be that something is too high preventing uptake of certain nutrients or possible iron precipitation.
OP
OP
Thanks! I'll check these out.
Caliban07
Aquarium Advice Addict
I have a similar issue at the moment. I don't have many plants though. I suspect iron because I haven't been dosing it every day like I should be and it's difficult to dose at the right time. Easylife ferro uses iron sulphate which doesn't last very long due to oxidation/precipitation. Some may get to the plants but it has to be dosed when lights are on and as far away from phosphate dosing as possible. In fact I'll probably have to start increasing my dosage slowly over the next few days to account for this.
Overall my plant growth is slow due to limitations in carbon and possible certain nutrients but they are growing. I'm still fine tuning micro managing my nutrients. Just reduced the photoperiod are increased co2 slightly.
Overall my plant growth is slow due to limitations in carbon and possible certain nutrients but they are growing. I'm still fine tuning micro managing my nutrients. Just reduced the photoperiod are increased co2 slightly.
Caliban07
Aquarium Advice Addict
Also it's difficult to say what is going on as I have a major diatom bloom which is yet to run its course. Some plants are smothered in them but I little dusting off and they look quite well underneath.
OP
OP
Ouch, hope the bloom sorts itself out.
My nitrates have been low for awhile now. I'm going to (hopefully) test with API and the JBL PROSCAN tomorrow and see what they get. Hopefully they make sense lol.
Idk, plastic plants have a sale on...
My nitrates have been low for awhile now. I'm going to (hopefully) test with API and the JBL PROSCAN tomorrow and see what they get. Hopefully they make sense lol.
Idk, plastic plants have a sale on...
OP
OP
OK - so got sidetracked on nitrate test kits. I like the seachem nitrate test kit that has it's own reference solution but looking at a more expensive one.
It seems that any nitrites can muck up the tests? I know normally not the case in a cycled tank but was interested in different methods.
(general info)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrate_test
(also notes nitrites can be an issue)
Testing for nitrate and nitrite in natural waters.
(see FAQ #2 on nitrites)
Seachem - MultiTest: Nitrite/Nitrate
-------------------------------------
Tempted to try this (I think I have the range right?) -
(kit K-6909D)
https://www.chemetrics.com.au/index...y&path=59_97&gclid=CI36rf2grtQCFZ4IKgodh34JiQ
Range 0-45 ppm as N.
Results are expressed as ppm (mg/L) NO3-N or NO3.
To convert results from ppm NO3-N to ppm NO3, multiply by 4.43.
(API reads total nitrate it says as NO3 so not quite sure what N stands for but I think ok, might email them).
And looked up the technical data sheet - yikes!
Interference Information:
Iron, copper and other metals, oil and grease, chloride at concentrations >2,000 ppm, high levels of chlorine and other halogens, and sample turbidity will decrease the efficiency of the cadmium reduction step, causing low test results.
Interferences from some metals may be minimized by treatment of the sample with EDTA solution. Turbid samples can be filtered prior to analysis.
Thiosulfate causes low test results.
Nitrite interferes by reading positively with the test and by decreasing the efficiency of the cadmium reduction step. Test results will be biased high when nitrite is present at detectable levels.
Some fertilizers may produce a pale orange color with the reagent.
It seems that any nitrites can muck up the tests? I know normally not the case in a cycled tank but was interested in different methods.
(general info)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrate_test
(also notes nitrites can be an issue)
Testing for nitrate and nitrite in natural waters.
(see FAQ #2 on nitrites)
Seachem - MultiTest: Nitrite/Nitrate
-------------------------------------
Tempted to try this (I think I have the range right?) -
(kit K-6909D)
https://www.chemetrics.com.au/index...y&path=59_97&gclid=CI36rf2grtQCFZ4IKgodh34JiQ
Range 0-45 ppm as N.
Results are expressed as ppm (mg/L) NO3-N or NO3.
To convert results from ppm NO3-N to ppm NO3, multiply by 4.43.
(API reads total nitrate it says as NO3 so not quite sure what N stands for but I think ok, might email them).
And looked up the technical data sheet - yikes!
Interference Information:
Iron, copper and other metals, oil and grease, chloride at concentrations >2,000 ppm, high levels of chlorine and other halogens, and sample turbidity will decrease the efficiency of the cadmium reduction step, causing low test results.
Interferences from some metals may be minimized by treatment of the sample with EDTA solution. Turbid samples can be filtered prior to analysis.
Thiosulfate causes low test results.
Nitrite interferes by reading positively with the test and by decreasing the efficiency of the cadmium reduction step. Test results will be biased high when nitrite is present at detectable levels.
Some fertilizers may produce a pale orange color with the reagent.
Oh how did I ever think fish tanks were easy, and not need a degree in chemistry, or at minimum, one of the Sciences?
Delapool, I can see how you could get involoved in topics like that - for days (or weeks)!!! Wow, that is way more than I can chew down in 10 min.!!!
Delapool, I can see how you could get involoved in topics like that - for days (or weeks)!!! Wow, that is way more than I can chew down in 10 min.!!!
OP
OP
Lol - I probably got a bit carried away posting there. The chemistry I just rarely use so pretty bad at. I ended up buying the test kit so will see if results are any different to API nitrates test (bit of a local discussion on their merits ongoing).
Also bought some suction cups for one of the canister pipe outlets. Postage was more than the cups but lucky to find them I guess.
https://www.chemetrics.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=120
The JBL test kit gave 18ppm nitrates and API 5 to 20ppm depending on which family member so fairly close.
Did a little bit of plant pruning today. Does anyone know if Anubias (petite) can be pruned at the tips to make it branch out a bit like stem plants or does it hate that?
Also bought some suction cups for one of the canister pipe outlets. Postage was more than the cups but lucky to find them I guess.
https://www.chemetrics.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=120
The JBL test kit gave 18ppm nitrates and API 5 to 20ppm depending on which family member so fairly close.
Did a little bit of plant pruning today. Does anyone know if Anubias (petite) can be pruned at the tips to make it branch out a bit like stem plants or does it hate that?
I really never trim my A. Petite. Try one. I think it would branch in 2 sides or other locations on the stem area that is left. Wait...
Checking the last Anubias (larger Barteri) cut last year.
I am looking at my large one I cut in half. It seems a leaf comes out from the side and then it grows off in the opposite direction like a slight zig zag. Both stems have nice growing ends like usual. And I know one was cut and had a bottom cut and a top cut and now both have lovely leaf developing ends.
The A. Nana I have seems to grow in a more bunched way, say clustered leaves yet grows long.
I wouldn't worry about it. There is rumour of toxic sap when cut, though I haven't ever noticed any issue, maybe do the clipping a few hours before a good pwc. For the safer than sorry.
Checking the last Anubias (larger Barteri) cut last year.
I am looking at my large one I cut in half. It seems a leaf comes out from the side and then it grows off in the opposite direction like a slight zig zag. Both stems have nice growing ends like usual. And I know one was cut and had a bottom cut and a top cut and now both have lovely leaf developing ends.
The A. Nana I have seems to grow in a more bunched way, say clustered leaves yet grows long.
I wouldn't worry about it. There is rumour of toxic sap when cut, though I haven't ever noticed any issue, maybe do the clipping a few hours before a good pwc. For the safer than sorry.
TMaier
Aquarium Advice Addict
I've hacked up my nana like crazy when I made this tree a few months back. So far all is alive. 
OP
OP
Very nice looking [emoji106]
Many thanks for the info - I'll try one end next water change and see what happens. It's doing well but the centre bit never really recovered from the furan 2 and would be nice to fill in.
Also finally lost the melon sword. Going to keep an eye out for more as that was a slow grower but always looked healthy. The new swords are going ok but a few pin holes.
Still sitting here thinking one more red plant but run out of room. [emoji30]
Many thanks for the info - I'll try one end next water change and see what happens. It's doing well but the centre bit never really recovered from the furan 2 and would be nice to fill in.
Also finally lost the melon sword. Going to keep an eye out for more as that was a slow grower but always looked healthy. The new swords are going ok but a few pin holes.
Still sitting here thinking one more red plant but run out of room. [emoji30]
