5 Hole Overflow

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GrndHog

Aquarium Advice FINatic
Joined
Jul 18, 2003
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636
Location
Defuniak Springs, Fl
I'm starting to plan out my filtration system for my tank. I have 5 holes drilled in my weir, and I thought that a good plan would be two in takes, two returns and one used for running all my electric from the bottom of the stand to the canopy, what do you think?

For a sump, I was thinking of getting a large(35gal) rubbermaid container and cutting the lid inhalf and drilling two intake holes in the lid. The other half of the container, I would place my skimmer and pump. Am I on the right track?

Hers the layout of the overflow
 
lots of folks use the rubbermaid containers for overflows so that shouldn't be a problem at all. Just consider the strength of the walls. If its a typical storage bin the walls will bow out some. My 22 gallon bins that i use for RO water bow considerably.

You may not need the lid at all. I think you'll find it to just be more hassle than its worth. IMO.
 
two of each, drains and returns is a good plan, this way if one should get clogged for some reason, the other is still available.

as far as supplying power for your canopy from inside the tank, I think that would make it a bit difficult to remove the canopy. how about running the electric cord for the lights up along the outside-back of your tank, in the middle where your strainer weir is covering it. use some of those little stick-on cable clips, or some of that Panduit wire raceway.

using a rubber made container for a sump is a good idea - the only thing you will want to do it build it some sort of support to keep the sides from bulging out when it's full of water. The lid would help with this, but only if it remained intact... then you wouldn't be able to remove it without draining the water down.

also having the sump covered and the tank covered gives you no place for degasing and o2 absorbption. If it's going to be a heavily planted fw tank, then no degasing is needed, the plants will do it for you, but saltwater or fw fish only need a way to bring in fresh air. also, evaporation is the easiest and cheapest way to cool your water... a fan on the sump accomplishes this real well.
 
another thought on that 5th hole... make it a third drain. The typical point of failure on an overflow is the drain. Something clogs one and then the others have to try and compensate. Having a third, perhaps an inch above the others, will give you just one more level of no-flood insurance :D

now all you need to do... is find a way to hook up a bell or alarm to that third pipe so you know WHEN something is slowing down your overflows and you need to do something... :mrgreen:
 
Thanks for the replies, guys!! Nice pickup on the "cant remove the canopy" justDIY.
Thats why I like to ask the experts. I just thought there may be a quick disconnect that I could buy for my lights, maybe not.

I've been looking for bulkheads on line and have come up with none. Can you fill me in on where to find them?

Thanks Billy for the tip on the 5th hole.

After the intake line passes the bottom the tank and before going into the sump is where I was going to install shutoff valves. Is that right or do I need to place them elsewhere?

One more question, do I use regular pvc below the tank for the intake line or do I use flex hose?

Thanks in Advance :D
 
Heres a drawing of what I think will work for the intake pipes. I was told to put the elbows on with a hole drilled on top of the elbow to reduce the noise of the water going to the sump. Have you heard of this?
 
yes, thats basically a durso style standpipe. see justDIY's post on his slim overflow to see some good pics of a nice one he built as well as an answer to your bulkhead dilema.

maybe... justDIY, think that 1200gph overflow rate will be sufficient for his tank? justDIY set up an overflow with 2 3/4" standpipes and he's getting apx 600gph per pipe. You may need that 3rd stand pipe for normal flow depending on what size pump you use for the return.
 
Yeah, that was another question, what size pump I would need for this overflow? The holes that are drilled are, 3, 1inch holes and 2, 3/4 inch holes for the return.
 
not sure.. if the holes are 1" and 3/4"... does that mean you'll be using 3/4" and 1/2" pipe for your plumbing? the size of the pipe will determine the flow rates you can expect... and IMO the pump should always rate under your drain flow rate but 10-20%

IOW, if you had justDIY's 1200gph of drain flow rate I wouldn't go any higher than a total of 960 GPH return.

found anoter pic on that durso page that looks a LOT like your situation...

http://www.rl180reef.com/pages/standpipe/standpipe-einstein.htm
 
IIRC, pipe is measured by it's inner diameter. so a 1" pipe is actualy going to need a hole bigger than 1" in order to fit through it...

thats why i was thinking they would actualy be plumbed for 3/4" and 1/2" to fit the 1" and 3/4" holes... (asuming 1/8" thickness pipe wall)

is that right? anyone have some pipe and a ruler on hand?
 
a 1" hole would accomidate a 1/2" bulkhead

a 1.25" hole accomidates a 3/4" bulkhead

a 2.58" hole accomibates a 1.5" bulkhead

IF you tank holes are actually that small, then you're in trouble! double check your measurements.... how big is this tank again?
 
will you have powerheads too, or do you want the main pump to do everything?

aim for 1200+ if you're going to have powerheads, or 2000+ if you want the main pump to do it all.
 
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