Originally Posted by jsoong
I used 2 2x4's at each corner jointed in an L-shape, plus 2 2x4 in the middle for a total of 10 2x4 vertical supports. This had been rock solid with an 80 gal
tank + 30 gal
The L-shaped joints not only increasing load capacity, but also gives torsional rigidity so the stand won't rack under load. Single 2x4 simply don't have this rigidity.
You definitely need a tape measure, plus some basic woodworking tools & skills, if you were to tackle a stand for a big tank!
Oh I have the skills and experience, and the tools, I just don't have a tape measure at my apartment right now.
I simply don't have room to place 2x4s like that though because I am using a 55 gallon sump, which is only 6 inches narrower than the 75, whereas two 2x4s places so would decrease the open with from (18.5" - 2(1.5")) to (18.5" - 2(3.5")) or from 15.5 inches, which I can slide the 55 in and out as needed, to 11.5" in which case I could not take the 55 gallon out from inside the stand without having to completely dissassemble the stand. including taking the 75gallon off the top.
I plan on surrounding the outside of the entire tank with a 3/8's or thicker wood paneling (either solid or particle board) which should increase the rigidity of the stand in the width vector. On the sides I will likely have the paneling screwed in, so that I can remove a side to facilitate moving the 55 in and out as needed without further disassembly. On the front will be cabinets to gain access to the sump while it is in normal operation. The backside I may also X-brace to increase the length vector rigidity.
I am planning on having the stand extend 4 inches lengthways past the end of the 75, while having the 75 butted up to one end. With that 4 inches will provide room for the overflow and return lines, and room to run hidden wiring to the hood and to any in-tank equipment such as power heads.
The overflow I think I am going to do it so that it is 6 inches deep and extends from teh end of the tank out 3-4 inches and have the holes drilling at the bottom of the small box, instead of having the overflow go from top to bottom and drilling the holes in the bottom. This is to slightly increase total water volume of the system.
That extra 4 inches, while the stand will be normal, flat topped at the level that the tank sits on, and the hood will be similiar, but also with the excess 4 inches of length (52 and 3/8" in length not counting decorative paneling), there will be a third section taht simply slides into place between the top of the stand and the bottom of the hood over those last 4 inches that will hide the overflow side of the tank (including the 3-4 inches that the overflow extends into the tank) hiding completely the overflow box, all plumbing, and all wiring. Being removeable will should give easy access to the back of the overflow where the overflow and return lines enter the tank, and will also give me a place to have the disconnects for the lighting wiring headed into the hood.
I will try and do a mock up in a cads program this week if I have time to give a better explanation.