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Old 01-23-2009, 06:18 PM   #1
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Building a stand, 75 gallon

First quistion, will 6 2x4 vertical supports hold the weight of a 75 salt water, I guess estimated weight around 1000 lbs?

that is a support at each corner and 1 in the middle of the length dimension

Also, what are the EXTERNAL dimensions of a 75 gallon? i.e. including the plastic borders of the tank, need all three dimensions if anyone can supply them, I don't have a tape measure handy.
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Old 01-24-2009, 05:59 PM   #2
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I have seen many tanks built with 2x framing, you should be fine. Might want to invest in a tape measure if you are going to build a stand tho.. Tank dimensions vary a lot so you should buy a tank first then build the stand.
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Old 01-24-2009, 06:50 PM   #3
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8 vertical 2x4s are sufficient for a 75. Check this thread for some simple plans.
Reef Central Online Community - DIY Stands Template and Calculator

Standard 75 gallon tank is 48 1/2 x 18 1/2 x 21 3/8

Yes, you'll need your own tape to do this.
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Old 01-25-2009, 12:34 AM   #4
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I used 2 2x4's at each corner jointed in an L-shape, plus 2 2x4 in the middle for a total of 10 2x4 vertical supports. This had been rock solid with an 80 gal tank + 30 gal sump.

The L-shaped joints not only increasing load capacity, but also gives torsional rigidity so the stand won't rack under load. Single 2x4 simply don't have this rigidity.

You definitely need a tape measure, plus some basic woodworking tools & skills, if you were to tackle a stand for a big tank!
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Old 01-25-2009, 05:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsoong View Post
I used 2 2x4's at each corner jointed in an L-shape, plus 2 2x4 in the middle for a total of 10 2x4 vertical supports. This had been rock solid with an 80 gal tank + 30 gal sump.

The L-shaped joints not only increasing load capacity, but also gives torsional rigidity so the stand won't rack under load. Single 2x4 simply don't have this rigidity.

You definitely need a tape measure, plus some basic woodworking tools & skills, if you were to tackle a stand for a big tank!

Oh I have the skills and experience, and the tools, I just don't have a tape measure at my apartment right now.

I simply don't have room to place 2x4s like that though because I am using a 55 gallon sump, which is only 6 inches narrower than the 75, whereas two 2x4s places so would decrease the open with from (18.5" - 2(1.5")) to (18.5" - 2(3.5")) or from 15.5 inches, which I can slide the 55 in and out as needed, to 11.5" in which case I could not take the 55 gallon out from inside the stand without having to completely dissassemble the stand. including taking the 75gallon off the top.

I plan on surrounding the outside of the entire tank with a 3/8's or thicker wood paneling (either solid or particle board) which should increase the rigidity of the stand in the width vector. On the sides I will likely have the paneling screwed in, so that I can remove a side to facilitate moving the 55 in and out as needed without further disassembly. On the front will be cabinets to gain access to the sump while it is in normal operation. The backside I may also X-brace to increase the length vector rigidity.


I am planning on having the stand extend 4 inches lengthways past the end of the 75, while having the 75 butted up to one end. With that 4 inches will provide room for the overflow and return lines, and room to run hidden wiring to the hood and to any in-tank equipment such as power heads.

The overflow I think I am going to do it so that it is 6 inches deep and extends from teh end of the tank out 3-4 inches and have the holes drilling at the bottom of the small box, instead of having the overflow go from top to bottom and drilling the holes in the bottom. This is to slightly increase total water volume of the system.

That extra 4 inches, while the stand will be normal, flat topped at the level that the tank sits on, and the hood will be similiar, but also with the excess 4 inches of length (52 and 3/8" in length not counting decorative paneling), there will be a third section taht simply slides into place between the top of the stand and the bottom of the hood over those last 4 inches that will hide the overflow side of the tank (including the 3-4 inches that the overflow extends into the tank) hiding completely the overflow box, all plumbing, and all wiring. Being removeable will should give easy access to the back of the overflow where the overflow and return lines enter the tank, and will also give me a place to have the disconnects for the lighting wiring headed into the hood.

I will try and do a mock up in a cads program this week if I have time to give a better explanation.
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Old 01-26-2009, 02:25 PM   #6
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A 55 gal is 12 3/4 wide. Give your opening say 13.5" for ease of movement.

You can substitute 4x4's for the doubled 2x's, maybe cheat a bit & plane one side down to 3" <should still be plenty rigid enough>. If you make your stand 19.5" deep, that would give you 13.5" opening. <By the time you skin it with 3/8" paneling, you would have a stand 20 1/4" deep.>

Alternatively, you can set the 3" posts out so it is proud of the panels & you can have your stand 19.5" deep. This is only 1/4" deeper than your original <18.5" + 3/4" panels = 19.25">. This will require a bit more complicated joinery for it to look good .... depends on you if it is worth while saving the 1".

I would certainly not go single 2x4's unless you are making a very tall stand ... in which case it might be OK to inset 2x8" at both the top & bottom of the posts to stiffen it so the stand won't rack forward. But then your stand will need to have the height so you can slide that 55 in.
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:13 AM   #7
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Well, I actualy just got done building a stand for my 55, a bit smaller than your 75 but goes on the same priciples. I used 4x4 for the corner posts. Something that REALY helped me was home depot, hope you have one for this. Look in their patio dept. I found a bunch of cool things for holding joining peices of wood together like at the corners or joist supports and corner strengthners. The company in called Simpson, and the product is the "strong ties". they seem to be made of some kind of aluminum alloy that is tuff and super hard to bend. check out the website. it is www.strongtie.com Just take a look and see what they ahve and mill it over a few days and make yourself a good plan and go from there.
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:38 AM   #8
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thanks for the linky.

Did not even think about using joint supports, would be a good help, and help ease my peace of mind as well. When I get to building I will prolly look for something like that to help out. Mucho gracious
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