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Old 03-24-2004, 10:38 AM   #11
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Here's another small progress update. These pics are the of the face frame and the back. The face frame is half-lapped for strength. I think I used every clamp I own on this one! The back is frame and panel construction. It looks so good I might have to find a place to use the tank as a room divider


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Old 03-24-2004, 02:44 PM   #12
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coming together beautifully.
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Old 03-24-2004, 04:16 PM   #13
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Your quite a craftsman!
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150 gal inwall reef tank, DIY everything except the tank and skimmer, MAG-24 return, 3 1200 Maxi-jets, Turboflotor 1000 Skimmer, 100qt Igloo Cooler sump.

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Old 03-29-2004, 12:19 AM   #14
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Thanks for the comments. I didn't have much time this weekend for the aquarium stand project. The weather was perfect for painting, so we worked on the house all weeekend. In the time I did have, I assembled the four sides and installed the bottom. The next step will be making the drawers, followed by the doors, then moldings and trim. On the rear view, you can see that the romoveable center panel is out so that plumbing can get inside to a filter.

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Old 03-29-2004, 09:35 AM   #15
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that's going to be beautiful when it's done. What kind of finish will you be putting on it? Any stain or just going to poly and leave the natural oak color?
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Old 03-29-2004, 12:18 PM   #16
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I will be staining with Minwax Golden Oak oil stain and following up with Minwax Polyurethane Clear Semi-gloss. This stand will be set up in our great room, where I have some other custom pieces. So, I am aiming to match the style and color of the existing pieces.

The natural oak color is beautiful with the Minwax poly. It adds a golden tone to the wood unlike my other favorite brand (Deft), which is perfectly clear. I built a solid oak hope chest with cedar lining a few years ago. The natural color looked great.
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Old 03-31-2004, 11:25 PM   #17
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I've been working on the drawers the past couple evenings. Here is the first drawer! It still needs the oak front, but you get the idea.

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Old 04-01-2004, 10:57 AM   #18
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**** you people and your, "workshops" you really know how to make a guy jelous!!

Very nice work. I made a dovetail once. And I did it by hand too! Too bad it wasn't attached to anything. I did get an "A" on it though
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Old 04-02-2004, 09:03 PM   #19
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I'm don't know a thing about wood-working terminology ... what is "half-lapped" and "panel construction" mean.

I'm planning on building a stand myself. Will using oak plywood make any difference in the strength of the stand? Also, what are you using to connect the joints (wood glue, nails?)?
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Old 04-02-2004, 11:16 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IMPERATORFAN
I'm don't know a thing about wood-working terminology ... what is "half-lapped"...
Half lapping is a way of joining boards together where you cut half the thickness off of one board, then cut half the thickness off the mating piece. The two pieces then fit together sort of like "Lincoln Logs". These were done on a table saw. Using a router or radial arm saw would be more accurate.

Click on this pic to zoom in and you can see the half lap joints.


Quote:
Originally Posted by IMPERATORFAN
... and "panel construction" mean.
Frame and Panel construction is similar to the construction of fine kitchen cabinet doors. The frame is made of 2 stiles (the vertical frame pieces) and 2 rails (the horizontal frame pieces). The panel is the center piece. The stiles and rails interlock and hold the panel captive inside. Take a look back at the pictures of the sides and back and you'll see what I mean.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IMPERATORFAN
I'm planning on building a stand myself. Will using oak plywood make any difference in the strength of the stand?
Plywood will not be as strong as solid oak. I have built two smaller stands (45g and 29g) using oak plywood for 3 of the sides and a solid oak face frame (made like this cabinet's face frame). As long as you keep the pieces square and your joints tight, it will be very strong. I don't have experience with plywood on larger tanks.

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Originally Posted by IMPERATORFAN
Also, what are you using to connect the joints (wood glue, nails?)?
On this cabinet, there are no nails. I have taken special care to ensure that every joint makes a good mechanical connection. The pieces fit together with no gaps. I glue with wood glue (Titebond or Elmer's Wood Glue) and clamp tightly. Once the glue has cured overnight, the glue joint is actually stronger than the wood itself. On the previous cabinets that I made with plywood, the joints were glued and nailed. Glue alone isn't enough when working with plywood.
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