PVC overflow (??)

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capj64

Aquarium Advice FINatic
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
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581
Location
West Virginia
ok, I'm learning all I can before I start my "big build" this fall/winter so I'm setting up a sump for my 29g just to see how the plumbing all works since I want to do a lot of my build as DIY. I went to ACE (local business) and bought 1/2" PVC (have no idea is this is big enough), elbows and a stop valve. And yes, I had to have the handy dandy PVC cutter since I love tools :) and thankfully my husband shouldn't find any need to "borrow" these cutters, lol.

So I pulled up several youtube videos and a thread I found in another forum (shhh) and started cutting/fitting and came up with what I "think" will work. Found out that I'll have to pick up a couple more parts tomorrow when I go to town for groceries. I forgot about the T that will have the shut off attached. Also, have to pick up a check valve, needed to suck the air out of the overflow to get the siphon started. And an end cap, I think mainly because I looks cool (??)

Now that I've started putting this together, knowing I already have to get more parts, I'm wondering if I can also build an overflow for my 10g that sits on top of my 29g, and have it flow into the same sump (20g). I'd like to connect the overflows of each tank so that it's only one pipe entering the sump. Is that possible?

DSC_0706.jpg
 
Oh, and check out the sand wave in the 10g. My yellow tail damselfish rearranges almost every night :(
 
yes i believe it is possible. you hook the 2 pipes into a y then you have just one pipe into the sump. not sure about the return you might need 2 pumps i am not 100% sure.
 
yes, you're correct about the return pumps, pretty sure there's no way to join that, but thought that it should be possible for the overflows to join. So now I have two votes "yes" :)
 
That actually varies, I have heard opinions anywhere from 8x-20x turnover rate. It depends really on what you are planning on keeping. 10x is fine for FO, just enough to keep their water filtered. If you want SPS and other high flow corals, closer to that 20x might be better.
 
Keep in mind that the 10x and 20x turn over rates will not all come from your sump pump. The sump pump will provide a portion but more likly you will need to suppliment it with power heads in your display tank to get up to the higher flow rates.
 
That actually varies, I have heard opinions anywhere from 8x-20x turnover rate. It depends really on what you are planning on keeping. 10x is fine for FO, just enough to keep their water filtered. If you want SPS and other high flow corals, closer to that 20x might be better.

I would have thought 10x is plenty for any type of tank from a sump as long as power heads are used as well to match the type of tank you are running;
 
I believe you will have to put a valve between your pump and the 10g to regulate the water flow into the 10g. So you may get away with only one pump...a little larger one.
 
Thanks all. I have to wait on the pumps so I have a week in a 1/2 to figure it all out. Cash flow...well it flows way too quickly around here :(

I can't wait to see how my diy overflows work.
 
This is what I have so far...

Overflow.jpg



also, wondering if I attach the top 10g tank's overflow down into the 29g's, will I have to have an air hole in the 29g's or just the 10g's?
 
OK, forget about turnover rate. You need to return as much water as the overflow takes out. That's from each tank. It has nothing to do with turnover rate, but everything to do with overflow capacity.
Assuming Sch 40 PVC thegravity flow would be
1/2" 420 gph
3/4" 660 gph
1" 960 gph
1 1/4" 1500 gph
 
This is what I have so far...

View attachment 24854



also, wondering if I attach the top 10g tank's overflow down into the 29g's, will I have to have an air hole in the 29g's or just the 10g's?

I'm not sure I understand this.. why all the ups and downs? Plus the water will never reach higher then it is in the DT, i dunno how it will get over that first section.
 
I'm not sure I understand this.. why all the ups and downs? Plus the water will never reach higher then it is in the DT, i dunno how it will get over that first section.

Its not any diffrent then a hang on back over flow. As long as you keep air out of the pipes it will not lose suction. You can you tube diy overflow and see. its quiet easy. Ive built the same basic thing. But 2 in one tank.

As for air holes. You will need one in each to start the siphon...ie get ridof the air. And prolly a hole in each cap for noise reduction.
 
YouTube and directions on another forum is where I got the "pattern". Not sure why I have to have the first loop in the tank and not just go with the intake looping up over the tank, but all the diy I've see so far are like that. I'll have to build one each way and see what happens :)
 
Alright, I haven't read the OP in awhile lol. I was thinking this was a different style overflow and was like...uh..

Post some pics when you can!
 
The first U inside the tank is to get the water moving. You cant have a j shape cause gravity wont pull the water up to get it moving. Also the design. Keeps water in the pipe instead of air. When you lose power you need water to stay trapped so you dont lose the suction. If you went without that U shape inside the tank, when you lose power the water would reverse flow back into tank filling the tube with air and no suction. Power comes back on, no suction equals flood equal to how ever many gallons are sucked out of the sump
 
oh, good to know. Now I don't have to test to find out :)

Hey, I'm doing a PWC today so I thought that I'd use it to test how my new skimmer works, like how it works. No instructions came with it, nothings marked on the skimmer so I don't know how much water to have it sitting in. Can y'all help me out with that? It's a ASM mini-G.
 
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