110g requires a lot of CO2? Normal?

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I'm now doubting my return plumbing situation. I didn't plumb the reactor to my normal return pump that feeds the spray bar across the back, for two reasons:
a) 792 gph is a lot to run through the reactor
b) the pump has 1" ID fittings and the Ista reactor I have is only 1/2"

But now I'm like... my current method is surely not as efficient and it's not getting the distribution I need :(

But I must wait and collect more data. This is the part where I mention again that I tend to jump the gun and try to fix things too soon.

If I have to make a change, I will build a cerges reactor to go on my main return pump.http://www.aquariumadvice.com//www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/
 
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The only issue I've had with some drop checkers is that they instruct one to use the aquarium water and add a drop(s) of the indicator solution. I did a lot of research back when I started CO2 injection and the bottom line is this; the solution inside the checker is the sole factor in how accurate it is, the drop checker's physical design only affects how quickly it responds.

I don't mess with pre-mixed solutions, I purchase a bottle of 4dkH reference water. The 4dkH is added to the drop checker along with a drop or two of the standard range API pH test kit (the one that indicates from yellow to blue). This way you can use the pH to ppm CO2 charts which show that blue-green is around 15ppm and green-yellow is about 30 ppm, once the solution starts looking yellow it's time to dial back on the CO2!

The reason for the 4dkH solution is that other water has trace amounts of minerals/chemicals which will affect the readings of the drop checker.
 
Build one build one build one!

I had so much fun building mine. And I love the sound of the little bioballs moving around inside it, pure bliss. It's fun figuring out what to put inside the reactor to dissolve the co2 100% without cutting your flow to near nothing.


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Ah, fish keeping -- safe over here, I totally agree you should do a build thread :)

The API ph test would be pretty rough but would give some idea. Yeah, probably not ideal test. I don't know of any other way unfortunately. A drop checker/bps or ph controller seems the way most go.
 
As a temporary plan, since the pump is broken/crippled, I rigged an in-tank powerhead reactor. I have lots of microbubbles of course and I can see CO2 being wasted but, it's working. New pump will be here tomorrow. Piece of crap Maxi Jet 1200 :mad:
I turned down the bps to 4 since I changed the delivery mechanism (although this should be LESS efficient, but just to be safe)

You guys, I told you. I didn't even get a WHOLE DAY on 6-7bps before I fiddled. Not even one day!

This is why my hubby thinks I am so bad at debugging. I am so bad at it. IT DOESN'T WORK INSTANTLY. CHANGE IT NOW! FIX IT NOW!http://www.aquariumadvice.com//www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/
 
Hmm, tricky!!

Even with the ph controller which is meant to be set and forget, I've added and changed stuff. Maybe Caliban is a bad influence?? I was just re-reading through the thread and thinking maybe I need a second co2 reactor. And the CO2 sensor reader gizmo I saw works to 6000m looks like. Pretty sure I need that, ok, want that...
 
Hmm, tricky!!

Even with the ph controller which is meant to be set and forget, I've added and changed stuff. Maybe Caliban is a bad influence?? I was just re-reading through the thread and thinking maybe I need a second co2 reactor. And the CO2 sensor reader gizmo I saw works to 6000m looks like. Pretty sure I need that, ok, want that...


Hey man don't blame me lol. I was just simply asking thren not to get too caught up on the teal colour or trying to hit the right colour on the drop checker because you may injure your fish before you get there. As you are discussing about things out of my depth at present. It could be a system problem that's not distributing the co2 about evenly or a problem with diffusion.


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