Getting rid of hair algae

[DragonFish71]

We have a heavily planted 40g tank with a hair algae problem. I have plucked clumps of it out when I do the weekly w/c. We started a black out on Wednesday. This morning when I did the weekly w/c I plucked out more clumps but it doesn't seem to be dying off quickly. So here's my questions:

Should I continue with the black out?

Will the plants be ok?

I haven't used ferts in 2 weeks now, is the going to be ok?

We have bamboo shrimp and otos in the tank, are there any safe products that can be used with them? (All the ones we've found aren't safe for crustaceans,scaleless fish and some not safe for planted tanks either)

The tank has black sand mixed with activ-flora substrate and I use Seachem Flourish for ferts. Lighting is just a regular aquarium/plant fluorescent bulb.

 

[kaiofcanada]

Hair algae is fed by high phosphates and nitrates. I had a problem with hair algae in an old tank. I really went to town with water changes to reduce the phosphates/nitrates. I also stopped using my old water conditioner, API which has aloe extract, which was high in phosphates and switched to Aqueon brand. I am sure there are other conditioners that will fit this bill. Check your fertilizers as well and make sure they do not contain additional phosphates. This will just feed your problem. The nitrates should come out in water changes as well.

You may also check the foods your are feeding the fish, some are high in phosphates and contain lots of plant matter. These are healthy for your fish of course, just feed them these types of food sparingly.
I was doing water changes every two days and eventually with patience and diligent soft toothbrush twirling on the affected leaves of plants it went away. I also added some mollies and platys to my tank. They basically picked at new forming algae and helped keep it under control once i got the algae reduced. They mostly snacked on the algae, but it was a nice little bonus.

I would not continue blackouts as eventually they will harm your plants. I suggest water changes and patience.

 

[Da Squid]

Oooh thanks I'll be trying that out as well. I have the same trouble. What do you mean by high nitrates though? 40's?

 

[FishEggs]

i would add co2 if you aren't doing that already. either the liquid supplement like excel or a diy yeast generator. i have had very few algae problems since using co2 and that is usually due to me not replacing the mixture soon enough.

how long have you had your bulb in use? it may be time to change it. plants might not be getting the right spectrum due to an old bulb and there fore do not use up the nutrients available and the algae thrive on it.

 

[kaiofcanada]

Oooh thanks I'll be trying that out as well. I have the same trouble. What do you mean by high nitrates though? 40's?

Yea 40s would be high...actually over 40 I would get worried about the fish. I would definitely be doing some water changes if my nitrates were near 40.

 

[timwag2001]

high nitrates would be over 40ppm. i wouldnt be too concerned with phosphate as your plants need them just wouldnt want them to be too high. having 2ppm phosphate is def ok. having too low phosphate will cause green spot algae.
are you only dosing flourish? if so i cant imagine that your levels are too high unless you're not following the directions. have you checked your nitrate and phosphate coming from your tap.
if you keep your mollys hungry they will CHOW DOWN on hair algae.
your light bulb should be changed at least once a year.
co2 is your friend. learn about it. your plants will grow better and you'll have less algae.

 

[DragonFish71]

Ok, let me try to respond to all ya'll at once.

Not running co2. We really don't want to either. I know most people swear by it for planted tanks, but it's something we've both decided we don't want to get into.

The food: Right now since there is only 1 pair of GBR's, 10 otos and 2 bamboo shrimp I feed freeze dried daphnia,freeze dried blood worms or some tetra color flake. Once the tank is stocked again, there will be more variety.

We've only had the bulb 2 months. It was new.

Nitrates are now at 5ppm. No idea on phosphates. We don't have a test kit for that. Ammonia and nitrites are 0, Ph is 6.8.

 

[Da Squid]

Dragon, seeing as we both have similar sized planted tanks with the same problem, I hope you don't mind if I post my efforts on this thread as well so we could compare. If its annoying, lemme know and I'll bugger off .

I just lowered my nitrates and backed off on feeding my mollies to force them to pick on the algae a bit more. Getting ready to introduce some carbon via Flourish excel into the tank. Since its a low (1.5ish wpg) light with no co2 or ferts, should I follow the instructions and start with 5 caps at once then another cap every day or two, or cut back the dosings? That sounds like a lot of juice to add to a tank without over drive growing techs.

 

[kaiofcanada]

Ok, let me try to respond to all ya'll at once.

Not running co2. We really don't want to either. I know most people swear by it for planted tanks, but it's something we've both decided we don't want to get into.

The food: Right now since there is only 1 pair of GBR's, 10 otos and 2 bamboo shrimp I feed freeze dried daphnia,freeze dried blood worms or some tetra color flake. Once the tank is stocked again, there will be more variety.

We've only had the bulb 2 months. It was new.

Nitrates are now at 5ppm. No idea on phosphates. We don't have a test kit for that. Ammonia and nitrites are 0, Ph is 6.8.

You don't have to run CO2 if you don't have really high light. Low light lants do fine without CO2. If you find that they exhibit symptoms of carbon deficiency I would suggest using liquid carbon, one brand is Flourish Excel. Having said that....
If you use water conditioner with aloe extract, don't...find a water conditioner without the aloe. Aloe is high in phosphates...therefore you are going to be feeding the algae with every water change. Your fish diet is actually pretty good, both for the fish, and that it isn't strickly a flake diet. Be sure when you feed the fish that you feed them sparingly to be sure they eat it all rather than letting any fall to the gravel if possible. This will reduce extra nutrients in the tank that the algae can also feed off of.
The key is finding a balance...algae can still grow in low nutrient conditions whereas your plants will begin to suffer in the long run.

I still suggest removing what you can by hand, and soft toothbrush, and being diligent with water change. You may also consider shortening your lights on to 10 hours. Your plants should be fine, but it will provide less fuel to the algae. Stick with this regime and eventually you can rid yourself of the hair algae. Afterall, you have bamoboo shrimp and otos, who will do some work.

Also, as a bonus feature to mollys, swordtails, and platys...they pick at hair algae. They will not erradicate your tank, but they are hungry little fish, and much on hair algae all day. Feed them sparingly and the can really chomp down on it. If you are considering adding a couple new fish, my suggestion would be to add some of these. They will eat longer strands of algea that the shrimp and otos won't touch.

 

[kaiofcanada]

Dragon, seeing as we both have similar sized planted tanks with the same problem, I hope you don't mind if I post my efforts on this thread as well so we could compare. If its annoying, lemme know and I'll bugger off .

I just lowered my nitrates and backed off on feeding my mollies to force them to pick on the algae a bit more. Getting ready to introduce some carbon via Flourish excel into the tank. Since its a low (1.5ish wpg) light with no co2 or ferts, should I follow the instructions and start with 5 caps at once then another cap every day or two, or cut back the dosings? That sounds like a lot of juice to add to a tank without over drive growing techs.

Your wattage should be good for doing a dose every other day. To be honest, you probably don't even need CO2, but it can't hurt. The Flourish instructions are actually 1 capful( equal to 5ml) for every 10 gallons to start. After that you will only need to add 1 capful (5ml) for every 50 gal.

I have 3.5wpg in my 20 gal and add 1 ml everyday and my plants are thriving. With lower light you will have less of a demand. Your tank has a natural carbon source that you are not likely depleting with 1.5wpg in that cardon dioxide in the air diffuses into your water as well as that from fish respiration and plant respiration at night. CO2 dosing isn't something every planted tank needs. It depends on many factors and what will need to be supplemented or balanced out for healthy plant growth.

 

[DragonFish71]

You don't have to run CO2 if you don't have really high light. Low light lants do fine without CO2. If you find that they exhibit symptoms of carbon deficiency I would suggest using liquid carbon, one brand is Flourish Excel. Having said that....
If you use water conditioner with aloe extract, don't...find a water conditioner without the aloe. Aloe is high in phosphates...therefore you are going to be feeding the algae with every water change. Your fish diet is actually pretty good, both for the fish, and that it isn't strickly a flake diet. Be sure when you feed the fish that you feed them sparingly to be sure they eat it all rather than letting any fall to the gravel if possible. This will reduce extra nutrients in the tank that the algae can also feed off of.
The key is finding a balance...algae can still grow in low nutrient conditions whereas your plants will begin to suffer in the long run.

I still suggest removing what you can by hand, and soft toothbrush, and being diligent with water change. You may also consider shortening your lights on to 10 hours. Your plants should be fine, but it will provide less fuel to the algae. Stick with this regime and eventually you can rid yourself of the hair algae. Afterall, you have bamoboo shrimp and otos, who will do some work.

Also, as a bonus feature to mollys, swordtails, and platys...they pick at hair algae. They will not erradicate your tank, but they are hungry little fish, and much on hair algae all day. Feed them sparingly and the can really chomp down on it. If you are considering adding a couple new fish, my suggestion would be to add some of these. They will eat longer strands of algea that the shrimp and otos won't touch.

Let's see if I can respond to all that.

I had enough trouble finding the Flourish fert I use now. I'm going to have to special order the Flourish Excel. My problem with using that is not being able to see if it's safe for the bamboo shrimp. I know some additives, ferts or otherwise aren't safe for certain critters. For water conditioner I use Prime. I do weekly w/c. We did adjust the light down to 10 hours yesterday when we uncovered the tank. I've been plucking and brushing like mad and can see plants finally. As for mollies and the like, this tank was planned for just Rams with the otos and shrimp. I could get some until the problem is under control but that creates another problem as to where to house them after they clean the algae.

 

[DragonFish71]

Dragon, seeing as we both have similar sized planted tanks with the same problem, I hope you don't mind if I post my efforts on this thread as well so we could compare. If its annoying, lemme know and I'll bugger off .

I just lowered my nitrates and backed off on feeding my mollies to force them to pick on the algae a bit more. Getting ready to introduce some carbon via Flourish excel into the tank. Since its a low (1.5ish wpg) light with no co2 or ferts, should I follow the instructions and start with 5 caps at once then another cap every day or two, or cut back the dosings? That sounds like a lot of juice to add to a tank without over drive growing techs.

Hey no problem. The more, the merrier

 

[aarongalvan]

Siamese Algae Eaters?
Not Chinese!
IDK... those may be the same as Otos?

 

[kaiofcanada]

Let's see if I can respond to all that.

I had enough trouble finding the Flourish fert I use now. I'm going to have to special order the Flourish Excel. My problem with using that is not being able to see if it's safe for the bamboo shrimp. I know some additives, ferts or otherwise aren't safe for certain critters. For water conditioner I use Prime. I do weekly w/c. We did adjust the light down to 10 hours yesterday when we uncovered the tank. I've been plucking and brushing like mad and can see plants finally. As for mollies and the like, this tank was planned for just Rams with the otos and shrimp. I could get some until the problem is under control but that creates another problem as to where to house them after they clean the algae.

My lady, you are good then! Prime is good...you don't need excel...I only suggest it if your plants start to look smaller and don't seem to be growing. This is a sign of CO2 deficiency. As for safety, I use Excel in my tank with ghost shrimp and 4 ivory mystery snails and all is well.
Don't worry about adding mollies, swordtails or platys. That was only if you wanted to replan your stock. I think you removing as much algae as possible and keeping the phosphates down with water changes is the best course of action given that you have already decreased your light cycle. Once you have removed the longer hair algea the otos and bamboo shrimp are more likely to eat the newly forming algae. Neither will really touch the longer strands.

 

[aarongalvan]

Thanks Kai... I learned something as well! Gotta Love AA

 

[Markstanfill]

SAEs arent otos, and they will eat hair algae pretty well. pricey little fish though.

 

[kaiofcanada]

SAEs arent otos, and they will eat hair algae pretty well. pricey little fish though.

Very true on both points. I considered getting 3 until I saw that they were $9 ea at my LFS. Jeebus, really?!? I decided my $4 otos were fine for now lol

 

[Da Squid]

SAE's are hard to come by as well. I've asked around a little and they tend to sell out within a day or two of arrival. At least around my turf.
Hmm.. Maybe I'll hold off on the Excel then. I plan on putting in another 54watt T5 bulb and jumping into co2 one day. So I have excel sitting around, but its expensive to use if it won't clear the algae. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[FishEggs]

SAEs aren't that much around here. you also have to be careful that you're getting saes and not flying foxes. they look very similar and a lot of places get them mislabeled. Flag fish are also good hair algae eaters (supposedly). depending on what plants you have in the tank you could do a couple double doses of excel to kill the algae. i have done it and it worked but if you have vals or other plants they will melt or die back. they usually grow back though.

 

[Da Squid]

I've been dosing a cap of excel every other day for a little while now and if anything the hair algae seems to be growing in stronger and faster than ever. I'm thinking of removing some of the plants that its taken a really strong hold of (certain clumps of java moss particuarly). My nitrates never go above 10, I do water changes every week, and the lights are on about 9 or 10 hours a day via timer. My flake food is omega... could that have a high phosphate count? I do freeze dried blood worms once in a while, but my neons and mollies dont seem to go for it that much.
I'm heading to the fish store this week to buy a school of corries and/or a pair of algae eaters (assuming I can find some that wont outgrow the tank). I'm thinking of discontinuing the Excel as my tank is only around 1.5wpg and the algae is still taking off.
How have you been coming along Dragon?