How much filtration/GPH?

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Batt4Christ

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Apr 18, 2011
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As my household begins making plans for a major upgrade, though having a limited budget to do so, we are putting together a list of what we will need. Some things are not too difficult to figure (like how much substrate, and what lighting we will use), but having never ventured into the realm if "large" aquaria, the one area that I'm unsure of: filtration.

We have about narrowed tank size to something around 120-125g. This will be a planted FW tank, that will primarily be home to angelfish. The intent is for the tank to eventually be pretty heavily planted. So how much filtration should we be looking at? One large canister ("700gph" Odyssea for example), two smaller-capacity canisters? Any point of an HOB (like my current Emperor 400)? I know with the longer tanks like the 125, circulation/dead spots can be a concern (can be helped w/powerhead). I'm kind o leaning towards two mid-sized canisters ( thinking you still have some filtration if one filter has problems/breaks down). We have time, so no big hurry right now. Just trying to plan it all out so we can budget and not run I to too many unexpected "bumps".
 
I'm running 2 aquaclear 110's and an air-driven Hydrosponge in my 125. I always use 2 power filters on larger tanks, and one airline (usually sponge filter too) in all of them regardless of size. The only exception is the 10 gallon housing 5 white clouds.
 
Rule of thumb is 4 times the amount of tank. Example if you have a 100g tank you should have at least 400gph filter. I would go over that IMO. It's better to over filter then to under filter.
 
So, my current Emperor 400+ a good-size canister would get the job done...
 
Rule of thumb is 4 times the amount of tank. Example if you have a 100g tank you should have at least 400gph filter. I would go over that IMO. It's better to over filter then to under filter.

4x the amount of the tank seems low to me. I've been aiming at 10x the size of the tank for my main filter alone. For example, my 10g has an Aqueon Quietflow 10, and I'm replacing it with a AquaClear 20; both of those filters move 100 gph.
 
I agree with James, on all my aquariums I have 10x the amount plus a few powerheads to decrease dead spots. However, I'm sure you could get away with 4x as long as you use power heads or circulation pumps
 
I agree. but i said was the MINIMUM is 4x the size of the tank. Like I said I would go over that amount.
 
So- by that line of thinking. A 125g would "need" 1250gph worth of flow/filtration.
 
You can never have too much filtration and depended on what your putting in (plants, rocks, etc) 4x won't be enough because those all create dead spots
 
As stated in a prior response... Too much filtration isn't a bad thing... This will however, always be a topic for debate.. Personally, I aim for a 10x minimum. In my 150gal. I have (2) eheim 2213 and (1) eheim 2217 for mechanical and chemical filtration and in my new 225gal build I'm rated for 3600gph, which is actually 15x, but with lift and pipe joints, im probably around 3000-3200 gph.

My thought process is this; In nature the water changes constantly. As long as your current in the tank Isn't knocking your fish around.. Why shouldn't you have the highest filtration possible...

Certainly no one will complain of your tank being too clean... Especially your fish!
 
You can also do without a filter depending on you setup in saltwater you can do what is called Berlin filtration with a ton of live rock and power heads. And for freshwater you can do a dirt substrate and a very heavily planted tank and just run a air stone. People have success both ways it's all preference. Check out dust ins fish tank on YouTube all his tanks are filterless
 
You can also do without a filter depending on you setup in saltwater you can do what is called Berlin filtration with a ton of live rock and power heads. And for freshwater you can do a dirt substrate and a very heavily planted tank and just run a air stone. People have success both ways it's all preference. Check out dust ins fish tank on YouTube all his tanks are filterless


I have been asking about doing that with my sw tank. But I never found anyone who knew anything about it. With enough lr and a skimmer could a sw tank thrive?
 
The Berlin method is a well accepted method for filtration. It works best in reef only systems because primarily a few things need to be considered. First, your population will have to be kept to a minimum. Two, water changes will have to be more frequent (increasing labor and salt costs) and Three, you're waiting for detritus to be broken down and 'skimmed' out rather than physically removed. Again, in a reef system detritus would be minimal compared to a FOWLR...

In short, IMO, the Berlin method is great for small tanks with a low population and may also be a 'cheaper' alternative. But in the end it all boils down to personal needs and wants...

For the record, if it was my freshwater planted tank, with a few angels... At a 125g I would have and undergravel filter w/powerheads, an air/bubble wall... A dual bio wheel filter... And while that would be enough... I would add a micron filter (magnum 350, ocean clear, etc).. Just for dedicated water polishing as the bio-wheel would have "amo-carb" containers in it.... With that... I could do whatever I wanted... Even go salt... <ahem, hint hint>

Good luck to you.
 
Ok, I'll start a new thread for the berlin/sumpless filtration. :) I'm a notorious thread hi jacker. lol
 
PS... I must admit... I know very little when it comes to FW, primarily planted tanks... So my filtration advice may not apply in the cases of dirt bottoms...
 
There is a wide variety of dirt substrate the best IMO would be mineralized top soil. And organic choice miracle grow with iron additives(clay). Or you can buy expensive product. But not necessary. And Berlin is just a ton of LR with power heads it's the most sort after filtration for sw. Their is a ton of info on both just google mineralized top soil for fw. And Berlin filtration for sw. And you'll get all the info needed
 
This discussion comes up again and again, and it is clear from the responses that everyone knows more about filtration than the manufacturers of the equipment. I use primarly sponge filters in my tanks. the reason is cost and the need for only one small air pump that uses 18 watts of electricity to run 14 filters. I can pretty much guarantee that these tanks don't have 10 times turnover, or probably not even 3 times per hour, but they are all functioning just the same.
I have said this before and will say it again. If your filter is taking care of ammonia and nitrites so that they read 0 ppm, than the filter is doing the job, regardless of what the turnover rate is. Adding another filter or a bigger one with a higher turnover will not make those numbers any lower. They will make the numbers on your hydro bill larger. There are those that successfully operate tanks, usually planted, with no filtration. Can you guess what their turnover rate is?
 
There is a wide variety of dirt substrate the best IMO would be mineralized top soil. And organic choice miracle grow with iron additives(clay). Or you can buy expensive product. But not necessary. And Berlin is just a ton of LR with power heads it's the most sort after filtration for sw. Their is a ton of info on both just google mineralized top soil for fw. And Berlin filtration for sw. And you'll get all the info needed

Mineralized top soil? Just going thru the instructions to understand it makes my back ache lol. I put down 1" of spg. peat moss (pre-soaked), cover that with a thin layer of laterite, capped with 2" of washed PFS. It's easy to set up and it don't have to spend 2 months (whatever it is) preping it and my vals are shooting up all over the place.
 
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