tank resealing

[xcugat]

Hello,
I want to start by thanking everyone who replied to my last post some time ago with advice--i have been busy as of late but now I have a new situation
I just recived a 55 gallon tank for free from someone who was getting rid of it--it sat in his wall for 16 years. In the time he owned it it never leaked but the previous owner had a leak on one side seam and he fixed it by slathering on a rather thick unsightly layer of black silicone which does not match the clear silicone in the tank. After reading some information, I scraped off the seam and bought some all glass aquarium silcone but now I have a dilemma. While removing the silicone, the silicone between the two panes of glass was removed in some places. From what I understand, the silicone in the tank on the corner keeps the water in, but the silicone between the glass holds the tank together

One LFS said that if I apply the silicone inside and outside and force it int he the gap it will be fine and the plastic frame will also help holding the tank together--she was against taking the whole tank apart
the other LFS said that the tank would almost certainly blow out in time and only gave the repair about a year, and only if the whole pane was removed and reset. So what do I do? Can i get away with just applying silicone as is, or will I have 600 pounds of water on the floor? (remember the really sloppy repair did last 16 years but it was not between the glass)
thanks alot

 

[melosu58]

Moved to General Hardware and equipment discussion.

 

[roka64]

Mike, it doesn't look like you moved this. I'll move it for ya.

 

[roka64]

Hmm, maybe you were in the process of moving it, lol!

 

[BillD]

Can't believe no one has replied. When you say that some of the silicone came out from between the panes, do you mean it all came out, or just a bit? If a tank is well built it will hold water even without the interior bead. The interior bead is more of a backup against leaks, or imperfect builds. You should be able to safely reseal the tank and have years of trouble free service.
Make sure all the old silicone is removed. When you are sure that you got it all, get a new blade and go over it all again. I like to go a little beyond the old bead to get on virgin glass, but in any case clean well with alcohol or acetone before applying silicone. If you want a really neat job, you can mask the areas you want the seams to end at; the masking tape needs to come off as soon as the bead has been smoothed.
I always do a dry run before I start to make sure I have it set for the easiest install. This is more critical in a large tank, where a helper is handy to turn it. in the fiuture you can save a pile of money on silicone by buying GE Silicone I for windows and doors. There are other brands that say ideal for aquariums on them, such as building centre house brands which is what I usually use.
I think you are good to go. I'm doing a 90 tommorrow.

 

[roka64]

Wow, Bill, thanks for the reply. I don't know how this went un-addressed!

 

[xcugat]

Thank you for the reply--I thought for a while I was left for dead!
Anyway I have removed all of the interior silicone, which as you confirmed for me is more of a safe guard anyway. Between the panes of glass there is still silicone, though In large areas it is only attached to one of the two panes--It was cut away from the other inadvertently. Should I remove this silicone all together, as silcone does not bond well with old silcone? I dont want to do more damage, and I really dont want to have to take the whole tank apart. If I were to apply silcone both on the inside and thinly on the outside where the two panes meet, could I force silicone in the crack, or do the panes need to be completely removed and silcone applied on the edge of the glass? (again I really dont want to take it all apart) thanks alot

 

[BillD]

If you have some that you can remove from between the panes, I would try and remove it. If you can get it out, then, when you apply the new, it should fill in the gaps.