Upgrading from 30G to 75G African Cichlid tank...

[dlwn88]

Hey guys,

I've mainly been doing salt water for awhile, but I recently found out why cichlid are so popular to have and now I've recently gotten some myself about 1 week ago.

I currently have 3 mbuna cichlids and 2 peacock, about two 1/2 inches long, in a 30 gallon. I've read all sorts of different things on here, saying you should have your tank slightly overstocked to keep agression down, but after watching the tank I feel I may have one or two too many. I've made sure they are all the same size.

Anyways, I know I needed to upgrade, I was going to go get a 55 then saw a sweet deal on the 75G so it's in room now, not setup yet. Do you have any advice as far as upgrading, any way to speed the nitrogen cycle from what's inside the 30G? I'm mainly used to salt water so I'm not sure how different or simular it is. Will 5 medium sized cichlids do fine in a 75 when full grown, should I need more down the road? And what filter do you reccomend for a 75g? Any additional tips and advice would be helpful.

Thanks!
Dave

 

[HUKIT]

Lots of options when stocking a larger tank. With a 75 you could potentially stock up to 30 fish depending on selections.

As far as the nitrogen cycle...either take the filter off the 30 and place on the 75g to help seed the tank( might see a mini cycle depending on many fish you add at once) or better yet buy the filter your going to use on the 75 then run it in conjunction with the smaller filter on the 30 for a couple of weeks.

As far as filters I'm a Fluval guy currently running 2 FX5's and 3 Fluval 405's. So I would recommend a canister with a rate to turn the tank over 7-10x per hour dePending on stocking levels.

Here's a decent write up for 75 gallon stocking
Cookie Cutter - 75-gallons

 

[dlwn88]

Wow, that's a great article, just what I was looking for. Thanks for the advice HUKIT

 

[HUKIT]

This is a great forum but those guys in the Malawi section know thier stuff. There's alot of great info on spieces and heath issues as well.

Plus remember to feed these guys a quality food. I hate to sound like a salesman for New Life Spectrum Cichlid but it really made a difference in color and health of my africans.

 

[hdultra]

Lots of options when stocking a larger tank. With a 75 you could potentially stock up to 30 fish depending on selections.

As far as the nitrogen cycle...either take the filter off the 30 and place on the 75g to help seed the tank( might see a mini cycle depending on many fish you add at once) or better yet buy the filter your going to use on the 75 then run it in conjunction with the smaller filter on the 30 for a couple of weeks.

As far as filters I'm a Fluval guy currently running 2 FX5's and 3 Fluval 405's. So I would recommend a canister with a rate to turn the tank over 7-10x per hour dePending on stocking levels.

Here's a decent write up for 75 gallon stocking
Cookie Cutter - 75-gallons

Hukit hit it right in the head, good advise. I'm a Fluval fan too. Filtration for cichlids is a absolute must. Cichlids love to go potty. Substrate choice is also somthing to think about. Look at Sea Carib for ciclids. You don't have to worry about ph levels, it maintains proper ph. That 75 is going to be cool. Hope to see it soon.

 

[dlwn88]

Hukit hit it right in the head, good advise. I'm a Fluval fan too. Filtration for cichlids is a absolute must. Cichlids love to go potty. Substrate choice is also somthing to think about. Look at Sea Carib for ciclids. You don't have to worry about ph levels, it maintains proper ph. That 75 is going to be cool. Hope to see it soon.

I'll look into Sea Carib...thanks. Yeah I'm pretty excited, it's a huge upgrade for me. It will be some time but once it's cycled and properly set up I'll post some photos

 

[hdultra]

I'll look into Sea Carib...thanks. Yeah I'm pretty excited, it's a huge upgrade for me. It will be some time but once it's cycled and properly set up I'll post some photos

Anything you need help with just let us know.

 

[dlwn88]

Aqadvisor.com - Introduction to mbuna species

Found a good article with a list of less aggressive types. I wish I knew this before, like I said I have a few mbuna and peacock cichlid which sometime, not to my surprise, show their aggression.

If two cichlids of the same species fight, say the two peacocks, is there a good chance that both of them are males then? Also, I'm assuming (but hoping I'm wrong) that when my 75g is set up and I add a less aggressive kind, will the other mbuna and/or peacocks destroy them? And do I absolutely have to overstock the tank to lower aggression? I'd like to have my 75 with a decent amount but probably not as much as other cichlid tanks, according to aqadvisor.com I'd have to do like 40% water changes every week min, which as much as I love doing this, would be a PITA after awhile.

I'm in the military stationed on a destroyer, sometimes I leave for a week or two at a time, or deploy for 6 months. I'd be much easier not only on my girlfriend but for the sake of the fish if she only had to do a 20% change rather then nearly 35 gallons or so every single week.

 

[mfdrookie516]

I do 50% in all my tanks weekly... If you get a python, there's no more work involved in changing 75% than there is changing 1%.

 

[dlwn88]

Do you have any issues with pH then? I'd imagine if tap water is at 7 or so and the tank needs to be at 7.8-8.6 wouldn't you be decreasing the pH every week? Even if it steadily climbed back up if you have the right substrate would the ph swing hurt the cichlid's?

 

[mfdrookie516]

My tap pH is 7.8... my tanks pH is 7.8... If your pH is 7 or better, I wouldn't add any buffers. Unless you're dealing with wild caught fish, they've most likely been bred and raised in tanks with lower pH than what the lakes are.

 

[dlwn88]

Oh I see. Just wanted to make sure. Is it even worth using Cichlid lake salt then? I'm currently using it now, figured it couldn't hurt, everytime I do a water change I add enough in for lake malawi specs. Will adding less agressive cichlids be a bad idea if there are more agressive ones already in the tank or will it be alright?

 

[mfdrookie516]

You're going to get varying opinions from everyone you talk to. I can tell you that I've never used any buffers or salts (except aquarium salt once when treating columnaris), and no special substrates. Sand is best IMO because they like to dig. I use pool filter sand in my tanks. Good filtration is a must, as mentioned before. I run a fluval 305 and 405 on my 150g. Lots of hiding spots is also a good idea.

I have rocks going up the back of my tank almost to the top. I've seen so many conflicting guidelines, but on average, they seem to recommend 3-4 'caves' per fish to keep aggression to a minimum. I have at least that. I have some very 'tame' fish and some very aggressive fish. Most people say Kenyi will destroy a tank. Same for Auratus. I have both. I also have yellow labs, red zebras, bumblebees, and acei. I also made mistakes when I started and got 2 venustus and 3 peacocks. I have no issues with aggression in my tank. My male Kenyi does rule the tank, but he doesn't cause any problems and there are never any shredded fins or fish that get picked on.

 

[Fdsh5]

Personally I have never used the salt. I have had my cichlids over a year and not had any problems. I'm no expert though. I'll let someone else give you a more educated answer. Just wanted to add my two cents.

Sent from my iPod touch using Aquarium

 

[dlwn88]

You're going to get varying opinions from everyone you talk to. I can tell you that I've never used any buffers or salts (except aquarium salt once when treating columnaris), and no special substrates. Sand is best IMO because they like to dig. I use pool filter sand in my tanks. Good filtration is a must, as mentioned before. I run a fluval 305 and 405 on my 150g. Lots of hiding spots is also a good idea.

I have rocks going up the back of my tank almost to the top. I've seen so many conflicting guidelines, but on average, they seem to recommend 3-4 'caves' per fish to keep aggression to a minimum. I have at least that. I have some very 'tame' fish and some very aggressive fish. Most people say Kenyi will destroy a tank. Same for Auratus. I have both. I also have yellow labs, red zebras, bumblebees, and acei. I also made mistakes when I started and got 2 venustus and 3 peacocks. I have no issues with aggression in my tank. My male Kenyi does rule the tank, but he doesn't cause any problems and there are never any shredded fins or fish that get picked on.

Right now I have a red zebra, two peacocks (they almost have the same pattern that koi do not sure what type that is...), one looks like an electric yellow except sometimes it's face and horizontal stripes turn light purple so I'm not sure, and the other two are dark black with grey horizontal stripes (any ideas which type?). Sounds like if I provide extra hiding spaces I should have to worry about aggression issues as much, without overstocking.

Thanks for all the advice guys!

 

[johmartz]

I recently upgraded (3 months ago) from a 40G tank with 20 cichlids in it to a 75G with now 30 cichlids. I added all of the water and substrate - fish included - in my 40G and used the Magnum 350 to help in the cycling of the 75G.

My tank has Malawi mbunas, peacocks, and Tanganyikans in it and as, far as aggression, I do not have a problem. I see the occasional chasing and lip locking, but have had no deaths so far. My cichlids are mostly males of different species and one female - a yellow lab. I thought it was a male. I have both the kenyi and the auratus and the latter is the bully of the tank.

As far as substrate, I use crushed coral to help maintain the pH and hardness of the water. I do not use pH buffers at all. I do 15% - 20% pwc every 4 days to maintain optimum water quality. I also use African Rift Lake salt every pwc and add 1 scoop for every 10 gallons of water changed.

I have a Magnum 350 and a Cascade 1200 canister filters and each are rated for 100+ gallon tanks. The magnum pumps 350 gph and the cascade does 315 gph. Both filters are powerful enough to keep my tank's water crystal clear.

It is ok to overstock your tank because it will minimize aggression as long as you keep up with the regular maintenance.

Good luck with your new tank and would love to see some pics. You can view my tank here:

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/members/31622-albums1176.html

 

[hdultra]

Check this substrate you will never have to worry about PH. This stuff maintains 8 PH levels and it looks awesome. Comes in Black n White. Those guy's are right, if you can get away from using chemicals do so. You'll have allot less issues. I also use the African Rift Lake Salt, to bring up the kh. It really brings out the colors in the fish to be real vibrant. These fish really do like the caves, tunnels, rock shelf for cover. It's really cool watching them go in and out of things. Limestone Rocks will help with kh also it would be the natural way to maintain kh. Hope to see your tank setup soon.
Filtration is a must as said. Make sure you double your filtration needs.

Link To Substrate:

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=285

 

[Chunkanese]

Sounds like you got ob peacocks. I'm No expert but I believe the males usually gain brighter colors or absolutely totally different body in peacocks within the sexes. I just upgraded to a 90 gallon I've never used salts in my tank and has seemed fine. I currently have 13 adult Africans in my tank as well as 1 juvy Taiwan reef. As well as 2 pictus 1 Pleco. When I got the tank it came with an sae and a tiny little tetra. My Africans totally ignore it even though it could easily be swallowed up.

 

[hdultra]

Do you have any issues with pH then? I'd imagine if tap water is at 7 or so and the tank needs to be at 7.8-8.6 wouldn't you be decreasing the pH every week? Even if it steadily climbed back up if you have the right substrate would the ph swing hurt the cichlid's?

get the cichlid sand and you won't have issues with ph.

 

[Tim Wheatley]

Upgrading should be fairly easy. Use the substrate and all contents from the 30g for the 75g. The 75 will be 50% full, simply add another 25% fresh water one day, then fill it completely a few days later. In the meantime, use the filter from the 30 on the 75g along with any new filter you might have and you should carry over all bacteria with you.