Recent content by prinzlerr

+1 on the Aquaclears. They're a bit pricier than the other HOBs, but offer more versatility in what filter media you can use. They're also pretty much indestructible. I have the 30 and the 50, and the 30 has been working flawlessly for at least 3 years.

Mine were doing that with the sinking Omega One cichlid pellets when I first got them (spitting back out), so I added freeze dried bloodworms and Omega One flakes to the feeding regime. Now they attack the pellets and the flakes, but seem to leave the bloodworms alone. Coloring didn't take long...

Looking good! I'm not sure how similar the setups are, but I have an evolve4 housing my betta, and flow was an issue for that tank as well. I just cut some holes in the return pipe (it's soft plastic on the evolve) until I had enough to provide a slow circulation that didn't stress mine out...

Update: I got tired of waiting for Current to release their new model, as the old 10k bulb is an algae machine. So, I ordered a new 6700k PC bulb that shipped yesterday. While checking craigslist today, I see an ad for 2 of the 24" Satellite+ setups. To all of the LED pros: would this be a...

I'm gonna lean towards either overfeeding or old bulbs, as I'm currently experiencing the same problem as you, and those are my diagnoses. I'm currently running an old 10k power compact bulb as I decide which direction to go with lighting (I blew my 3 month old 6700k replacement somehow), and...

+1 on Aiptasia-X. I had a couple pop up on some live rock I purchased, and it was recommended to me at my LFS (it's what they used). I did as the instructions said, and after a couple of thorough searches/uses I haven't seen any again.

Crypts are notorious for melting in new tanks, but are really hardy. I've had them seemingly die off numerous times, but they always grow back better than ever. Excel can also pose issues for crypts, so that may be another part of the problem. I read in a few places that you can gradually...

I've heard Ozelot swords can get pretty big, and they look pretty cool too. I've got the same issue with my Amazons (staying compact), but I'm still scared to pull them up because of the potential tank disruption.

Dwarf Hairgrass, from my understanding, is a bit harder to grow without high lighting and no CO2 (I've never grown it, so that's just hearsay). As it's a short carpeting plant, I doubt you would be able to successfully keep it with your current lighting. Moss would be a good foreground option...

That seems to be a culmination of exactly what I want, based on the preview and forum posts. Now I guess it's time to play the waiting game..

I think I'm going to start using the term "gee-whiz factor" in everyday conversation, haha. I guess I was misled on information, as I was under the impression that 28 PAR was suitable for med/high light plants. The LED guide posted above considers 80-120 to be high light. Red plants are...

This is exactly the type of resource guide I was looking for. Thank you.

Thanks for the info. I guess one of my concerns with LED is the fact that I'm still relatively new to them. I've heard good things from BML, but have yet to check them out. Despite the fact that I absolutely hate it, I have found that patience and knowledge is absolutely vital in this hobby, lol.

I take anything that's not the actual plant and discard it. As Brookster said, just be patient when removing it, so you don't damage the root system.

So guys, after the input I've received from here the past couple of weeks, coupled with research here and everywhere else, in addition to the part where I somehow blew my primary PC bulb randomly, conjoined with the fact that I've read sketchy reviews on the cheaper bulb replacements that I was...