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Like someone else mentioned, it's normal for nitrites to be high at this point in the cycle. You could dose to 2ppm of ammonia instead of 4ppm then as you notice the nitrites being consumed faster start increasing back up to 4ppm. How big each bacterial colony can be is determined by food...

Got my plants yesterday. Thanks!

+1 on the boesemanis

Yeah lol I realized after I typed it, I just started using the app vs the computer and it won't let me edit it. I'm posting in way too many threads lol

Ohh and I'm tempted to help with the calculating part so here goes (the warning is I'm a chemist so I do it the long way - just ignore it if you're bored out of your mind and skip to the very last part) Here is what is called the dilution formula (essentially you are taking a concentrated...

Lol I had the wrong thread, so sorry still informative I'd you'd like to read, but only for fishless cycling, don't add any ammonia with your fish in there.

Ohh and I'm tempted to help with the calculating part so here goes (the warning is I'm a chemist so I do it the long way - just ignore it if you're bored out of your mind and skip to the very last part) Here is what is called the dilution formula (essentially you are taking a concentrated...

I wouldn't do any PWC unless your nitrites show up as the darkest color on your chart (that is 5ppm but since it's at the highest measurable value you can only know it 5 or higher it could be 5ppm or 10 or 20ppm and like I said nitrites above 10 can stall your cycle). Your nitrites are not this...

I have no experience with those seeded filters so I can't really help on that one, sorry. Hopefully someone else will come along who can. from what you describe it seems to me that the stalling started when you added the angelsplus filter. I don't know I can think of some scenarios where that...

You can disagree all you want but it's impossible for seachem or any other dechlorinator to work instantly for 2 reasons, one is diffusion: dissolving a small volume of concentrated product in a large volume of water means it takes time for the product to spread. Two: what I said before about...

I meant less food = less waste **** autocorrect

I would feed the fish less since less food = less water. You will not be starving if you feed them every other day but it will reduce the amount of waste. Also, I think what the sales guy is telling you is bs (pardon my language but it makes me a little mad). Your test is fine for the reasons...

Not true, unless you are aliquoting the water going in the tank, adding dechlorinator to that water and letting it sit for a few hours you want to add enough dechlorinator to dose your FULL tank, otherwise you will dilute the dechlorinator and it might not find the chlorine in solution fast...

Nitrites look between 0.5 and 1ppm to me, but it doesn't really matter, your cycle is progressing nicely. As long as your nitrites are not off your chart (nitrites over 10ppm can stall your cycle) you don't need to worry. And yes, it's normal to start seeing nitrates at the stage you are in...

+1 on the ace ammonia you want "pure" ammonia (to be specific it's ammonium hydroxide since ammonia is a gas at room temp). If in doubt do the "shake test" meaning if you shake the ammonia bottle and it foams it's no good because it has detergents added. As for the cycle, just dose ammonia to...

+1 librarygirl. Unless you're keeping very finicky fish, stable levels are a lot more important than the actual values (avoiding extremes of course, like below 5 or above 10, I personally would not go much above 8 or below 6 for most fish) In the past, I have kept cardinal tetras which...

I'll take you up on the double too for a total of 100 MTS, please pm me the total cost with shipping to 91106 and your paypal info so that I can send payment. Thanks

I recently lost my fire eel (sniff sniff posting pics below) and I had an oxygen crash in the tank (even though I have 2 airlines going in there) so I am thinking about making some changes to stocking and would like some advice. My Tank: 75 gal acrylic dimensions 48"Lx15"Wx24"H Filter: Rena...

Thank for the condolences - im pretty sad about it. No signs of bloating that I could tell, even postmortem. She was pretty "fat" though that's why I think it was a female since then tend to be fuller bodied. The ick attack is herbal here is the ingredient list from the website: Kordon...

Yes you want to bring your ammonia back up to 4ppm so that your nitrosomonas (bacteria that feed on ammonia and produce nitrite) don't starve out. So you want to keep adding ammonia to keep it at about 2 to 4ppm to feed those bacteria while you grow the second bacterial colony (Nitrobacter the...

Sadly, my fire eel (Kraken) died yesterday :bawl: and I want to try and make some sense of what happened because eventually I would like to keep another fire eel. My Tank: 75 gal acrylic dimensions 48"Lx15"Wx24"H Filter: Rena filstar XP3 Heater: Aqueon 300W - I keep my tank at 80F Substrate...

+1 on the liquid kit vs the strips. Also, you should read up on the nitrogen cycle if you haven't already. From your earliest post it looked like you had just the tank set-up with no fish and no ammonia source, that will not cycle your tank because you need an ammonia source to do so. If you...

Are we talking about the true SAE (Crossocheilus siamensis)? I read this was true of flying foxes (Epalzeorhynchos kalopterus) which are sometimes mislabeled as SAEs.

reun if you are still considering otos, just figured I would add my 2 cents. I too stay pretty on top of my tanks (weekly 25 to 40% PWC, filter maintanence, water testing, etc) and I decided to get 4 otos for my 20gal, 3 died within a couple of weeks and 1 was left, I read that if they survive...

I too have 0.5ppm ammonia in my tap water. Have in mind that what most dechlorinators do, is to bind the ammonia so that it is non-toxic to fish until the biofilter can take care of it. If you are using the liquid test kits (which are much more accurate than the strips), the bound ammonia will...