Search results

I’m thinking the old shrimp in the curtain rod hijinks

I’ve used IAL, maple, oak, sycamore, mulberry, and various deciduous leaves. Mulberry breaks down the fastest (mostly because it’s food in the shrimp tank) followed by maple; sycamore is like leather and last for months. I cant really say which give off the most tannins but I believe IAL and oak...

In case you do stumble upon a drilled tank, add a bulkhead fitting if one is not present as well as a threaded cap. This will allow you to add the necessary plumbing for a sump in the future.

For CO2 I would recommend using a reactor in the sump. You will lose CO2 in the vertical plumbing lines, distribution tray (if you use one), weirs, and any exposed air trickle style media. Submerged media would help. Black fittings along the back wall of the tanks (that lead to the sump) should...

I had a Finnex FugeRay over a 20g long (par 44 @12”) with no added CO2. Growth was slow at best (subjective answer since this really depends on the type of plants). Later I added a dual chamber DIY yeast based setup. CO2 output was low at best (1 bubble every 2-3 seconds). It ran 24/7. I used...

I would also look into a heater controller. These devices will monitor the temperature and will shut off the heater(s) in the event they malfunction (for instance, get “stuck” in the ON position).

Activated carbon might help as it adsorbs numerous inorganic compounds. I would be worried about the pesticides being incorporated into the plant’s tissue. Not sure what to suggest regarding the T-5 tubes. Have not used them in years. A single tube might produce enough light for a very shallow...

^^^ Was thinking the same thing. You can set it so that you have a few windows of time for feeding. Not quite the on demand option you were looking for but cheap alternative.

First one is a type of Amazon sword, possibly Ocelot or Kleiner Bar. Second looks like Anubias nana.

Thanks for the vacuum tip. I just MacGyver something together. Update on the worms: apparently fenbendazole is not a broad based treatment; though the flatworms are gone, other types are still present. Namely detritus worms. Not a problem though. Updated tank pics:

Thank you for posting the progress. Informative and awesome.

I like the mini fridge and canister idea. You could probably swap out the canister filter with a water pump or power head. You would have to fashion some type of radiator in the fridge for heat transfer.

Even with minimal agitation, increased surface area can result in CO2 gas off as seen in the sump you were using.

Lower cost option is to run a fan across the surface. It will increase evaporation. There are chillers you can use. These are effective but can be expensive. BTW 75 F should be fine for the four goldfish. I’d worry more about eventual crowding as they mature (and get large).

Yes, remove the lead strip and plant individually in groups about 1” apart. The red ones look like a species of Ludwigia and the green ones a species of Rotala.

Actually, I’ve seen no worms of any type since treatment. Shrimp and snails are fine. A few months back there was a decline in the number of seed shrimp. Have not seen any in the last few weeks. There is an occasional copepod sighting. The dual HMF has been running for about a year now. The...

Black plastic mesh should prevent the fish from going over the edge and still not detract from the layout. You could use the plastic mesh found in the knitting section of a craft/hobby store.

May not be a popular opinion, but I can dig the simplicity of the tank’s current state. A scattering of mini Indian Almond leaves would complete the look. But that’s not the direction you are going with (Planted).

Awesome tank! With all of the top growth, you could probably get away with little to none submerged plants. It looks great as is.

Dropped in the half pellets. Checked an hour later...nothing. I do see what looks like shriveled up flatworms on the glass; without the classic triangle head they resemble other flatworms or flukes. However, these were not moving. I dosed the remainder of the mix (not quite a days worth) and...

I agree on the transition part; does not like sudden changes (have seen this with other plants like crypts). I’ve had it thrive well in an old, neglected tank and drop needles in a new tank like a Christmas tree in February.

I’m wondering if there is something that was introduced (aerosol) in the new place that is affecting the tank. Idk. Is the plumbing and water source pretty much the same as the old place? It’s is not uncommon that plants can have a setback after moving them but can’t explain the fish deaths...

If you can, try putting the sponges in the new filter (whole or cut up). You could take some of the existing gravel and put it into nylon bags and place them in the direct path of the filter/aerator’s current (or in the filter as well).

Regarding substrate, for a more natural appearance I would look for something with mixed grades and tones (see pic and don’t put currency in your tank). Play sand and PFS are rather homogeneous and uniform. You can mix several sands and fine gravels to achieve this look.

You can add more gravel on top. The BB will resides on most surfaces, especially where there is decent flow (such as the filter).