Search results

Not saying that it can't happen, but I use Flourish Excel in all my medium light tanks. Many of them have perfectly happy marimo balls in them. Anywhere from .5" - 3" diameter. I use the Sea Chem Flourish line of fertilizer. I talked to a sea chem rep who assured me that the copper is in low...

Most people look at that thread, see a wall of numbers and then run off to ask questions in a different forum. You need simplified charts.

How about a honey dwarf guorami, a few small tetras, a mystery snail, and a couple dwarf cory's. That is still a highly stocked tank, but not anywhere near as bad as you first said.

Yeah unless you have a BOSS filtration system and want to do water changes every other day, that is way too much bio load for a 10 gallon. Not just the bio load, but the fish will be stressed in that tight of a space.

I have had luck growing it in it's own tank. Kind of a plant nursery tank, then once it has a root structure transplanting it to the tank you want it in... I have loaches though, so that is the only way it would have a chance.

A couple of people asked me to post these graphs. To help with choosing proper tank lighting. Sorry I don't have a curve that includes LEDs.

The thing about low light plants, is that maintenance is relatively easy. I use "API leaf zone plant" for fertilizer in my low light tanks once a week and keep my plants trimmed nicely. Everyone seems happy. I have a couple low-moderate light plants that I use the flourish excel liquid CO2 on...

The wisteria shouldn't grow that insanely with the amount of lighting available.

Use thread to pin it down to a coconut shell, rock, or driftwood piece. You can also pin it between 2 mesh sheets. You can use cloth screen materials like out of windows, or they make mesh specially designed for that. Basically, it needs to anchor on to something. Eventually the mesh will rot...

Ok... Where to start. The 7000k light is just out of the best range for lighting for freshwater plants. 5000k-6500k work best. You have a good list of plants selected for low light, which should be fine. Watersprite will probably have some problems growing. The anarchis may have some issues but...

One thing I think you may be confused about having the silicate sand. You won't have the problem forever. Once all the little dissolvable pieces of sand have been dissolved and then removed you will be fine. Otherwise every one with a glass tank would have this problem since glass is silica.

I don't know of anything that will remove silicates but not phosphates.

Increasing light should only cause green algae to grow faster, if you have it. Green algae is actually a sign of a healthy tank and should be easily controlled by your algae eaters and/or regular cleaning. If you have blue-green algae it will make it worse. You should only have blue green algae...

What is it that you want the additive to do? Boost gowth to shorten cycling?

Wattage required changes depending on the type of lighting. 55 wats of LEDs are completely different than 55 watts of flourescent, which is different than 55 watts of metal hallide. They all have different heat outputs as well.

There is also silicate absorbing resin you can put in your filter.

You can change to a silicate free substrate, like aragonite sand. Plecos and Ottos will eat the brown algae. Increasing your lighting and oxygenation will help tons.

Yes, it is branded as a silica sand.

The picture is really hard to tell. Anubias do flower though. The stem will usually grow to the surface and then flower in the air. Maybe it tried to flower underwater and rotted?

They'll usually leave snails alone. Bettababe is right about their personalities, some are less aggressive than others I have most of my bettas with other fish, but some have to be by themselves. I have one that I call "King of the shrimp" because he hates all fish, but doesn't mind shrimp, so...

If you want a 20 gallon planted tank, a tetra community would be much better suited. As some one else mentioned, a 20 gallon tank is only suitable for one fancy goldfish really. You can add some barbs and some corys. A dwarf gourami pair or a GBR would go well.

Here is a part of an article I read that you might find helpful: The Asian Riverbed Aquarium (120-200 liter) This set up is very nice if you are willing to install a fairly strong current in your aquarium. It will mimic a South-East Asian riverbed biotope and should therefore ideally be...

Look at some rainbowfish. Just check out adult pictures of the species you want online, because the ones at the lfs will be too young to have much color.

Any time. Feel free to pm if you need any help.

Depending on the shop, the LFS can be horribly misdirecting. I once had a guy trying to tell me I could put a fish in one of my 10 gallon tanks that I knew would be 8-10" long in a year and well over a foot fully grown.