10gal to 40gal - what to move in case 10gal is diseased

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jimsz

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Sep 20, 2011
Messages
86
Unfortunately a month and a half ago the fish store convinced me to go with a 10 gallon start up tank. Big mistake.

I picked up a 40 gallon tank kit over the weekend and plan to take down the 10 and setup the 40. They can't be run concurrently as they go in the same location in my office.

When setting up the 10 I was given bad advice by the fish store and I added fish in the first week. The tank never cycled. After a period of weeks and checking the water often (API Master), using Seachem prime while doing near daily partial water changes. The Ammonia is between .25 and 0 (water from the tap here is .25). PH is on the high side, Nitrates are 0 and once were up to .5 and nitrites are also 0.

The problem is last week a newer fish came down with Ich. I separated that fish and the one I purchased with it into a separate container and used tablets to treat them an the fish tank.

The 2 fish died after a period of days. I continued to treat the main tank but could tell the tablets were making it uncomfortable on the remaining fish.

A couple more died and after a week I have ceased the treatment.

During the treatment I followed the steps exactly with water changes prior to adding more tablets. Remove the filter media to avoid killing the bacteria, etc. It was kept moist in a ziplock bag. I returned this to the 10 gal tank a day after the tablet treatment stopped.

Now I have a dilemma. I have to start moving on setting up the new tank sometime this week simply due to room constraints.

Do I move the gravel/filter media into the new tank due to the possibility it is contaminated or do I simply pitch it all and start fresh with a fish cycle?

Is there a benefit to using Tetra Safe Start (or something similar) to speed things along and make it comfortable for the fish?

The fish I have is several Danio fish.
 
Phew, a lot going on, huh?

First thing I want to note, DO NOT REMOVE YOUR FILTER when treating for ich or other disease. It's the carbon you want to remove.

If you remove the filter a few things happen: 1) your bacteria do die if you don't keep providing them with a source of ammonia and 2) your fish are now in a completely uncycled and unfiltered tank and even water changes won't help you save them all.

When you treat for ich, you must treat the entire tank, you cannot just remove the fish that show symptoms. You can treat without meds by using the heat treatment. Raise temp slowly to 86 F, add an airstone to increase oxygenation, do gravel vacs every 2-3 days to remove ich spore from the substrate. Maintain this process for a minimum of 2 weeks.

With regard to starting the new tank up, it might give you a safer start to use new gravel. I've never used Tetra SafeStart so don't know if it's appropriate to use if you already have the fish in the tank.

Visit this article, it should help: I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?!
 
Phew, a lot going on, huh?

When you treat for ich, you must treat the entire tank, you cannot just remove the fish that show symptoms. You can treat without meds by using the heat treatment. Raise temp slowly to 86 F, add an airstone to increase oxygenation, do gravel vacs every 2-3 days to remove ich spore from the substrate. Maintain this process for a minimum of 2 weeks.

I removed the sick fish but I treated both the small tank the ill fish were in as well as the main tank where the rest of the fish were. Did the vacuum, etc., as well.
 
Yeah, but you used some kinda tablets. You really don't need meds.

Ich can quite often be caused by stress. An uncycled tank is certainly a stressful environment as it is toxic to the fish. Your best bet now is to do a ton of water changes in order to keep the toxicity down. Nothing helps heal fish better than pristine water.
 
Yeah, but you used some kinda tablets. You really don't need meds.

Ich can quite often be caused by stress. An uncycled tank is certainly a stressful environment as it is toxic to the fish. Your best bet now is to do a ton of water changes in order to keep the toxicity down. Nothing helps heal fish better than pristine water.


OK, I get it. You know, I am so sick to death of the chain fish stores info giving bad info. I would rather they tell me they don't know.

I have been doing daily water changes, sometimes multiples. The pH is on the high side but ammonia has not been over .5 and that was briefly a couple weeks ago since then it is .25 or 0. Nitrites have been steady at 0 as well.
 
We have ALL been lead astray by the fish store people..... curse them! :banghead:

Your numbers are getting there, ultimately you want 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and <20 nitrates.
 
We have ALL been lead astray by the fish store people..... curse them! :banghead:

Your numbers are getting there, ultimately you want 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and <20 nitrates.

I just have to remember the purpose of the people at the chain fish store is to sell addons, not fish.
 
Really, your best bet when ready to purchase fish is to do tons of research. Sadly, you are the one who needs to have the knowledge when you go to the store to make up for inept employees who have none.
 
yes, that is what I have been trying to do.

Appreciate your assistance!
 
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