1st 10 gallon sump

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Never go above your overflow for return. What's your overflow gph
 
Don't have one yet. I'm thinking I will make one. Probably a corner one. But my tank will be drilled in the back.
 
Make sure the glass is thicker than 1/4in and not tempered other than that go ahead and do the overflow
 
Will two 1" bulkheads for the the herbie method be fine? I've already ordered two 1" bulkheads and a 1 3/4" diamond hole bit.
 
Both drains will be 1" PVC and the return will be a single 3/4 flex pipe with hang over U tube. Sound good?
 
Sounds good except the diamond drill bit did you make sure it's for 1 in holes
 
Its a 1 3/4 inch hole which a 1 3/4 inch bulkhead goes in and a 1 inch pipe fits.
 
What would be a good color temp light to put over my fuge. I've been looking at led clip lights for cheap. Is a 7000k light good for chaeto algae and what not?
 
paul87 said:
What would be a good color temp light to put over my fuge. I've been looking at led clip lights for cheap. Is a 7000k light good for chaeto algae and what not?

I use 6500 for my chaeto
 
Sorry cant help you with this but I think the comment above is correct
 
Yea I wad just wondering would the higher number k would be better. I currently have a 4000k mini fluorescent light. I run I 12 on 12 off. I turn it on at night.
 
Well I've also been wondering about my sump return. I don't want water to back syphon if the power goes out. Is a hang over u-tube My best bet? Or will I have to put a hole in the top of the u-tube to prevent back syphon?
 
The over the back return I never do it I drill the back of the tank put a bulkhead in and then do the return but on your return line do a George fisher wye check valve and once every 2 months clean it that's what the other part is for to clean it, that's the part with the closed cap.
 
It's much safer if you drill it and it will be better in the future
 
Well I could drill it but I don't trust the check valve. I do have one though. I'll have to order a different size diamond bit and another bulkhead.
 
I trust the drilled more because if you maintain it correctly and if you put the return flare nozzle higher than your water level by 1in then your system will be fail proof while the over the tank return you can't really adjust so now if the waters a little higher then it will go back down the return
 
If its this one then drill the tank if its another check valve that's not like this then I understand why you don't trust it. It has to be this check valve in the link above for the system to be flood proof.
 
No it's not one of those. That's quite pricey too! Buy still if I have a air opening in the return line somewhere like having the nozzle out of the water it wouldn't siphon down right?
 
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