4 dead in 4 days

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you COULD dissect but you need to know exactly where to look, what to look for and how to do it... not sure its worth it.

if i were u, id put up the temp and add in some salt + medication from the lfs. there isnt much that such a low ammonia can do, but parasites can kill with next to no signs other than the poop.
 
Get back to basics and keep it simple,

More/larger water changes, cut out all the additives expect for dechlorinator ( I recommend prime). That ammo is still really high and the tank still isn't stable enough IMO.

Also that "brain trust" at your LFS should be fired.
 
Mouth-Brooder-Fanatic said:
you COULD dissect but you need to know exactly where to look, what to look for and how to do it... not sure its worth it.

if i were u, id put up the temp and add in some salt + medication from the lfs. there isnt much that such a low ammonia can do, but parasites can kill with next to no signs other than the poop.

I've dissected animals looking for parasites before. I'm prob a little rusty but I'm sure my lab instructor could fill in the blanks. As stated before, I added 4 oz of that copper green. What other meds should I be adding? I don't trust my current LFS and won't be able to seek out a new one until tomorrow.
 
Try not to add any more meds as you don't know what your treating.You don't want loads of chemicals in your water.Natural is best.Go with the water changes you can't beat them.Water quality is the key.
 
Mogurako said:
Get back to basics and keep it simple,

More/larger water changes, cut out all the additives expect for dechlorinator ( I recommend prime). That ammo is still really high and the tank still isn't stable enough IMO.

Also that "brain trust" at your LFS should be fired.

I agree. Keep it simple, and don't overload with chems. Fo far as LFS goes, consider all opinions, as opinions will vary. I ask a lot of questions, and then go with the popular opinion. I've been steered wrong by my LFS as well. I find sites like this one provide better advice than LFS.
 
I remember a post recently where someone lost all their fish because of some anti-algae treatment. Their tank was overdosed, but it sounded like not much was used for that to happen. I would stop adding that stuff.
 
If you are still in your cycle period as the test results show then the meds wont do anything good if not worse imo.

The meds will also advice to not change water but that would be the only thing you need right now.
Did you do a large water change before medicating?

Well eventualy your filter will pick up and all things will be fine (if they dont get sick because of the water)

If i was you i would now relax and watch some tv lol there isnt much you can do when your not fully cycled.
Or go to a shop or friend and borow used filter material then you will be out of trouble in no time.

If im totaly out of line here pls correct me!
 
TheGrza said:
No external signs. One fish had white stringy poo the other day but he's still swimming. It's not ich or bloat. Guy at LFS gave me copper power green to use. Help before the plague wipes them all out.

Did you lose any more since yesterday? Did you do any maintenance last night?
 
Fready: not out of line. You've been very helpful.

Jasadell: got home from work at 11
Last night. No dead fish this morning and I'm about to do a WC. 25% sound good?
 
Hholly said:
It wouldn't hurt to change out 50%.

50% changes aren't stressful to the fish? The waters not coming in at the same temperature and stuff. And yes, I am aware that death is probably more stressful.
 
Hholly said:
It wouldn't hurt to change out 50%.

Agreed. Even 75%. I would followup with 15%-25% daily or as often as you are able to for a week or two to flush out any chemicals that may have been used to in the process of trying to fix the problem.

After you feel you are in the clear, it seems the popular opinion is to do small water changes (15%-25%) at least weekly, and then large water changes (50%-75%) monthly. Personally, I do about 50% weekly. Be warned, opinions vary widely on this. Just keep checking your levels and adjust your % and frequency as as needed.
 
I would do 40% + PWC, it will not stress the fish allot of fish including mine are much more active afterwards. You should temp match the water the best you can before adding it to the tank, ideally you don't want more than a 1-3 deg swing in temp. When I change mine I can't normally get it to about 1 deg plus or minus just from feel out of the faucet.

I am not sure if you are using a python or Aqueon water changer but I would recommend that. What I do is drain the water, add prime, let sit for about 3-5 mins add the water back in, let sit for another 3-5 mins then start the filters back on.
 
I don't use a python or any of that. There is no faucet on the 2nd floor. I use a syphon gravel vac with a bunch of buckets and a lot of patience.
 
TheGrza said:
I don't use a python or any of that. There is no faucet on the 2nd floor. I use a syphon gravel vac with a bunch of buckets and a lot of patience.

You can get those things in 50' + and you can even go to home depot or lowes and get more hose and splice them together for custom lengths. You can even make your own, what I did.
 
Mogurako said:
You can get those things in 50' + and you can even go to home depot or lowes and get more hose and splice them together for custom lengths. You can even make your own, what I did.

^ thats what i need to do for sure

& i think the reason they cant get the temp right is because the water sits for a few days. correct?

a solution could be heat the water while it dechlorifies, etc. but i know i'd be mad if i had to buy a bunch of extra heaters lol

hope it all works out for ya
 
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