Acceptable Nitrate Level

[Mogurako]

Doing 20% water change daily to lower the levels. The Nitrate was not this high yesterday, but the displayed readings are lower than before the change. Of course, Prime was involved in all the testing hence my initial questions.

Wow, I'd be doing 50% WC every day until those levels come down. I've never seen prime affect a test like that.

 

[HUKIT]

Prime simply locks the ammonia and so forth it doesn't change the actual readings, it looks like your in the middle of the cycle due to zero nitrites.

 

[Dirt Diggler]

Prime simply locks the ammonia and so forth it doesn't change the actual readings, it looks like your in the middle of the cycle due to zero nitrites.

Would you suggest I continue with the 20% water changes? The fish don't seem stressed at all so far, and I had no die offs.

 

[HUKIT]

Would you suggest I continue with the 20% water changes? The fish don't seem stressed at all so far, and I had no die offs.

I would start with 50% daily water changes until the water parameters stabilize.

What size tank, stock list, and filtration are you running?

 

[Dirt Diggler]

I would start with 50% daily water changes until the water parameters stabilize.

What size tank, stock list, and filtration are you running?

I'm running a 45 gallon tank with 20 juvie mbunas and peacocks. I'm using a Tetra whisper 60 HOB filter and also supplying oxygen via air pump and air stone. I have driftwood, rocks, and fake plants. I'm considering actual plants as I've read they help process nitrates but I'm worried that the fish will destroy the plants. I'm hoping to control aggression through overcrowding, but I'm sure some of the fish will have to go as they grow.

 

[5x5]

I'm running a 45 gallon tank with 20 juvie mbunas and peacocks. I'm using a Tetra whisper 60 HOB filter and also supplying oxygen via air pump and air stone. I have driftwood, rocks, and fake plants. I'm considering actual plants as I've read they help process nitrates but I'm worried that the fish will destroy the plants. I'm hoping to control aggression through overcrowding, but I'm sure some of the fish will have to go as they grow.

I would agree you need to increase the rate and size of water changes. you don't want a deep green reading like that for ammonia. Nitrates are mild in their effects compared to ammonia and nitrites.

Even though they are small, 20 fish for a cycling tank is making this harder to manage than it needs to be. In the future, I would only a do a few.

 

[Jakepen]

Also with that many fish, I'd look into adding another filter. If possible of course.

 

[Dirt Diggler]

I would agree you need to increase the rate and size of water changes. you don't want a deep green reading like that for ammonia. Nitrates are mild in their effects compared to ammonia and nitrites.

Even though they are small, 20 fish for a cycling tank is making this harder to manage than it needs to be. In the future, I would only a do a few.

In retrospect, it has proven to be a bit of a challenge thus far, but this is something I do to myself all the time . Future builds will be more conservative. I'll do another water change today after testing to see how well the ammonia is being processed. I added some water, a "dirty" decoration, and some "dirty" substrate from a buddy's well established tank.

 

[Dirt Diggler]

Also with that many fish, I'd look into adding another filter. If possible of course.

It's something I'll have to look into definitely. I'd have to cut into the hood a bit more though if I went with another HOB. Would the filter help manage the ammonia? What filter do you recommend?

 

[5x5]

In retrospect, it has proven to be a bit of a challenge thus far, but this is something I do to myself all the time . Future builds will be more conservative. I'll do another water change today after testing to see how well the ammonia is being processed. I added some water, a "dirty" decoration, and some "dirty" substrate from a buddy's well established tank.

Established media is really the key to a quick cycle. The substrate and decorations will also help. It looks like you are pretty far along based on your readings, so the important thing now is to keep the water safe as it completes.

A friend on AA gave me the idea to start storing sponge filters in my sump, so I can pretty much instant cycle new tanks when the mood strikes me.

 

[Dirt Diggler]

Established media is really the key to a quick cycle. The substrate and decorations will also help. It looks like you are pretty far along based on your readings, so the important thing now is to keep the water safe as it completes.

A friend on AA gave me the idea to start storing sponge filters in my sump, so I can pretty much instant cycle new tanks when the mood strikes me.

That is an awesome idea. I assume you have a canister filter? Does anyone think I should add the purigen that I have at this point to help clean the water up?

 

[5x5]

That is an awesome idea. I assume you have a canister filter? Does anyone think I should add the purigen that I have at this point to help clean the water up?

I was referring to a sump with a wet/dry filter. It's a reef-ready tank, when I had future ambitions of doing salt.

In the past I've tried all kinds of additives including purigen, chemi-pure, aquarium salt, ammonia lock, Live bacteria...etc. My new stance for freshwater is to keep it simple and don't add anything that is not necessary.

 

[Dirt Diggler]

I was referring to a sump with a wet/dry filter. It's a reef-ready tank, when I had future ambitions of doing salt.

In the past I've tried all kinds of additives including purigen, chemi-pure, aquarium salt, ammonia lock, Live bacteria...etc. My new stance for freshwater is to keep it simple and don't add anything that is not necessary.

I already have the stuff in my house, and it was used for a short time so I can't return it. Does it work at all?

 

[Dirt Diggler]

And, if I were to add another filter, what brand model would you recommend?

 

[Jakepen]

And, if I were to add another filter, what brand model would you recommend?

I have the emperor 400 and fluval 406. The 406 is awesome, much quieter and more efficient than the emperor. And cleaning it is so simple.

 

[Dirt Diggler]

I have the emperor 400 and fluval 406. The 406 is awesome, much quieter and more efficient than the emperor. And cleaning it is so simple.

Trying to avoid the canister filters on this particular build (long story), but you say the Emperor 400 is good to go on your aquarium?

 

[Dirt Diggler]

Trying to avoid the canister filters on this particular build (long story), but you say the Emperor 400 is good to go on your aquarium?

would the 400 be over sized for a 45 gal tank?

 

[HUKIT]

Filtration will not prevent the water conditions from deteriorating, the biofilter can only process so much. I would look into rehoming half of those fish, long term 10-12 fish would overstock that tank.

 

[Dirt Diggler]

Filtration will not prevent the water conditions from deteriorating, the biofilter can only process so much. I would look into rehoming half of those fish, long term 10-12 fish would overstock that tank.

I agree with that assessment concerning the long term. I'll be able to get them some new digs eventually though and comfortable house them all. I'll figure something out with the fish themselves, but I'm not seeing an increase in ammonia, nor a decrease. It's lowering with water changes, but the bio filter seems to have reached a type of balance where there is no +/-. I'll keep an eye on it, and continue water changes until I can get it to 0 where it belongs, then I'll go from there. I was also feeding daily, and I just changed to every other day. Today is their off day.

 

[Dirt Diggler]

Filtration will not prevent the water conditions from deteriorating, the biofilter can only process so much. I would look into rehoming half of those fish, long term 10-12 fish would overstock that tank.

Would plants help in the short term?