beginners 10g fully planted for my swordtails

[Aspencer]

Here is my tank. I went to the LFS and got some plants but this one is a mystery.

My mission for this tank is to let the swordtails breed and have a tank with the bottom fully planted so fry can hid, shrimp can live, and my 3 swordtails live .

Here are some pictures as it is now. Any suggestions?

 

[fort384]

Looks to be a red melon sword if I am not mistaken. I would suggest root tabs if you want it to keep the coloring. Also, the lighting looks a bit dim... could just be the pics.

 

[fort384]

Also, the fern looking plants are not aquatic. They won't survive submerged in the tank.

 

[Aspencer]

Also, the fern looking plants are not aquatic. They won't survive submerged in the tank.

Yea, I researched them last night and took them out this morning.

Do you know what plant is that I took as a closeup?

 

[fort384]

Looks to be a red melon sword if I am not mistaken. I would suggest root tabs if you want it to keep the coloring. Also, the lighting looks a bit dim... could just be the pics.

^^

 

[Aspencer]

Looks to be a red melon sword if I am not mistaken. I would suggest root tabs if you want it to keep the coloring. Also, the lighting looks a bit dim... could just be the pics.

Sorry for missing that post.

Yea the light is dim, 15w full spectrum 50/50.

I was sold that plant at the LFS as a low light plant. I guess I will be getting a new light but am nervous about the CO2 setup.

 

[fort384]

Yeah, not sure I would call it low light. It might survive in low light but I doubt it would retain the color. You don't need to bump your light up so high that CO2 becomes a requirement. If you just swapped the 50/50 for a straight 10000K bulb or 6500K bulb, you could probably keep low light plants alive.

 

[Aspencer]

Yeah, not sure I would call it low light. It might survive in low light but I doubt it would retain the color. You don't need to bump your light up so high that CO2 becomes a requirement. If you just swapped the 50/50 for a straight 10000K bulb or 6500K bulb, you could probably keep low light plants alive.

Does that mean that would just be okaaaaaay or more than adequate?

 

[fort384]

I would say barely Ok (or might not even work, but might be worth a try)... an upgrade would really expand your options...

 

[CoyoteWildfire]

Agreed. For what it's worth, I had a 10G with a 15W T8 bulb and that was good enough to keep my Amazon Sword, Moneywort, Myrio, Anacharis and Moss Ball all in good health without CO2 or ferts.

Whenever you're interested in new plants, be sure to do your research. It'll save you so much hassle in the long run... Got myself a false-aquatic as well because I didn't do my research... :-\

PlantGeek.net - Your Aquatic Plant Resource will be a lifesaver. It was for me!

 

[Aspencer]

The light I am looking look at, which MFD recommended:
Dual T5H0 with 1 (1) 6000K 18w T5HO & (2) 650 mm 18w T5HO

That is 1.8 WPG so I should be just on the edge of needing CO2...right?

 

[fort384]

WPG is meaningless on a 10gal tank... especially when dealing with the PAR produced by T5HO lights. I would say you would have some issues without CO2 if you use 36W of T5HO on a 10Gal tank. That is a kick butt amount of light.

 

[CoyoteWildfire]

A lot of places I've seen will mention that you need more than 3WPG before you need CO2. I personally have never used it so I can't speak from experience.

Bear in mind though, that although WPG is a rule of thumb, the scale shifts when using a bulb that has better luminous efficacy. The raw light output (lumens) of a T5 is quite a bit higher per watt of energy consumed compared to T12s or even T8 bulbs.

More than WPG, you really would want to consider color temperature/photosynthetically active radiation (6000K is good, though some may say that 10000K is better), the bulb's luminous efficacy (T5 bulbs are between 70-100Lm/W, though I'm not sure what the luminous efficacy of your 50/50s are), and how much of it is reaching your plants.

T5HOs are nice, and they have good reflectors that direct more of the light directly on your plants. Short answer, I think a single T5HO would be adequate for your tank.

 

[fort384]

You don't want to even think WPG on a 10 gal tank.

anything 6000K-10000K is fine for plants. I think you would actually find more who would argue 6500K is better than 10000K. Personally for me aesthetics enter into it, and I think 10000K looks nicer.

You will be hard pressed to find a single bulb T5HO fixture I think.

 

[Aspencer]

T5HOs are nice, and they have good reflectors that direct more of the light directly on your plants. Short answer, I think a single T5HO would be adequate for your tank.

If I am going to spend the money on a new fixture, then I would want one that I could expand with...more bang for my buck.

What if I, for the time being, buy an extra Antenix (sp)...tried to find the spelling in other treads but obviously couldn't find it...and just run one tube of good stuff and another tube for just color..which I know the plant can't use.

I just want that fixture....

 

[fort384]

Yup, that is actually a good plan. The actinic bulb would give the tank a nice look, and give you room to expand if you want higher light plants and want to run CO2 later on.

 

[Aspencer]

Yup, that is actually a good plan. The actinic bulb would give the tank a nice look, and give you room to expand if you want higher light plants and want to run CO2 later on.

That is just what I wanted to hear...haha

Hey, thanks for the help...made my life a whole lot easier!!!!

 

[CoyoteWildfire]

Although fort did most of the work, you're welcome. :] Glad for what little I could help with, haha.

 

[Aspencer]

Although fort did most of the work, you're welcome. :] Glad for what little I could help with, haha.

I am so embarrassed...you are so correct!

 

[CoyoteWildfire]

Forgive me, but why should you be embarrassed...? :]