Caleb's Tanks

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The Favia may be a little difficult to get off the plug depending on how big the skeleton is, the froggie should be easy. And I'd personally leave the softies on, but if you cut them off try and take a layer of the plug/rock they're on off with them (especially the Zoas) as softies can get a little irritated being glued down, and the plug/rock will give you an easy surface to glue down


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BigRedsReefs10 said:
The Favia may be a little difficult to get off the plug depending on how big the skeleton is, the froggie should be easy. And I'd personally leave the softies on, but if you cut them off try and take a layer of the plug/rock they're on off with them (especially the Zoas) as softies can get a little irritated being glued down, and the plug/rock will give you an easy surface to glue down


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That's Red guess I have a project soon :)


Caleb
 
Not gonna lie the more I see these reef tanks the more I want one. Promised myself I'd master the planted side first before I even contemplated "the switch".


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Mattfinn said:
Not gonna lie the more I see these reef tanks the more I want one. Promised myself I'd master the planted side first before I even contemplated "the switch".


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Stick to zoanthids and soft corals starting out and it would be comparable to a planted tank. It's the hard corals that can be demanding. I only do soft corals but I'm going to be trying for some sps corals soon. It's just a matter of lighting and stable water chemistry, good flow and a constant supply of calcium and magnesium for sps corals. Basically with some research and having money to get the correct supplies needed you can start a reef with very few problems and you don't need to master freshwater to get into saltwater. Basically if you want a reef aquarium and you can afford it you should dive right in and you'll find that it's not so hard.


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dylan p said:
Stick to zoanthids and soft corals starting out and it would be comparable to a planted tank. It's the hard corals that can be demanding. I only do soft corals but I'm going to be trying for some sps corals soon. It's just a matter of lighting and stable water chemistry, good flow and a constant supply of calcium and magnesium for sps corals. Basically with some research and having money to get the correct supplies needed you can start a reef with very few problems and you don't need to master freshwater to get into saltwater. Basically if you want a reef aquarium and you can afford it you should dive right in and you'll find that it's not so hard.


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Thanks for that. I've been doing a lot of reading about it. Initially why I've never thought much of it is the pure financial costs to maintain and establish reefs. Now that I'm a bit older have a better understanding of how the hobby works then I think I could do it. Just not yet....haha. For now only reading and gaining more understanding for this side.


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Well I've had a bit of trouble today..

I did water changes on 75g,40g, and 10g today. 40 and 10 went smoothly.

75g not so much...

I really am stumped how but my entire school of 15 cardinals except 1 all died right after my water change today. All other fish look happy as usual even the discus. And ate this afternoon.

This is a well established planted tank so you can likely guess the parameters right after a water change,

7.0, 0, 0, 0-5.

Temp change around 0.6 degrees through water change process

Prime added right before refill.

I'm stumped I have no idea, and it was only the neons... No other fish in the tank seems out of the ordinary.



Salty side:

With the return money from the cardinals I got a small colony of GSP and some beautiful Zoas! I'll post a pic tonight or tomorrow for an ID in the zoa addicts thread.


Caleb
 
Sucks man, guess it's just one of those unlucky things that happen. Don't beat yourself up over it. Maybe just something they didn't like in the water? Neons and cardinals are sensitive fish, maybe that's why. Pictures of the corals?
 
Here we are with some more pics! I really wish I had a nice camera because my iPhone cannot capture the beauty in my saltwater tank, especially the true colors of these zoas...

Green Star Polyp colony(GSP):
http://i.imgur.com/7ELTZQr.jpg

New Zoas:
http://i.imgur.com/82gQtZJ.jpg

Frogspawn:
http://i.imgur.com/WZkqkjO.jpg

Clown in his anemone:
http://i.imgur.com/egKdYCT.jpg

FTS. I like side shots okay :)
http://i.imgur.com/6zBw4M7.jpg

Some other shots:
http://i.imgur.com/L4yrwF7.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/k8MnBvF.jpg


Caleb
 
It seems that BBA is starting to take a toll on my 75g....

I've been reading and would like to do the H2O2 spot treatment BUT I don't want to harm my discus.

How should I go about this process?


Caleb
 
I just use a syringe to inject it to the spots I want treated.
I focus on one or a couple spots if I have many instead of hitting them all.
This aslo allows me to inject more to the area I am treating(ml/gallon).
I keep my filters running but many do not?
Good luck!
The BBA should go red/grey in 3 days or less of treatment.
 
coralbandit said:
I just use a syringe to inject it to the spots I want treated.
I focus on one or a couple spots if I have many instead of hitting them all.
This aslo allows me to inject more to the area I am treating(ml/gallon).
I keep my filters running but many do not?
Good luck!
The BBA should go red/grey in 3 days or less of treatment.
Click to expand...


Thanks bandit.. I know it higher doses it may harm fish.. Is there a certain mL count I should stop at?




Caleb
 
So many links and articles out there....
I have gone from low end doses(.5ml per gallon) to the high end 3 ml per gallon without ever losing fish(when I had discus!)./
You are going to need to treat for a week at least IMO so start at 1 ml per gallon and work up to 2 ml per g if you need power behind it.
Many then 2x-3x dose glut(excel,metricide...) afterwards and kill all algae!
Shrimp seem to be most effected by the One Two punch!
Here is the real ink.
All info has been edited and is ALL ON PAGE 1.
The "One-Two Punch" Whole Tank Algae Treatment
 
Always hitting more issues...

It's like in 48 hours I went from no hair algae to hair algae on absolutely everything!

I've taken the 24/7 off 24/7 mode and on a timer for 8 hours and 2 hour break in the middle. Adjusting co2 to match.

Looks like I have a lot of my hands to do now with all this algae.


Caleb
 
Have you tried a lil lower than 8 hrs for a week. Maybe 4-6 hrs with an off gap. H202 spot treat and excell. All combined are helpin me with this issue.

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PoppaRyno said:
Have you tried a lil lower than 8 hrs for a week. Maybe 4-6 hrs with an off gap. H202 spot treat and excell. All combined are helpin me with this issue.

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Click to expand...


Alright I was work with that. It's so weird how it all came so fast though!


Caleb
 
By BBA I am assuming you mean black beard algae. Now that my tank is planted not plastic I have a ton of algae. Before the lighting schedule was 3 hrs a day. Now it's 7. I am so glad now that I have my pleco who used to just be a useless, hiding, bioload-stealing crap factory. Now he's my best friend.


~ExoticAquarist, signing out
 
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