Can anyone Id this

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Blitz

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
56
Location
New Jersey
I just planted a 55 Gallon FW, I've stocked it with:
5 Neon Tetras,
8 Harlequin,
1 Siamese Algae Eater,
1 Clown Pleco,
4 Glow Light Tetras,
3 Zebra Nerite Snails.

I have:

1 Anubia,
Scattered Baby Tears.
Scattered Java Moss.
Brazilian Pennywart.
Comboa

I've been dosing with Flourish, Excel and have some Flourish Root tabs.

Also Co2 Injected.

All Water Parameters are:

7.0 PH
79 Degrees.
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Iron .05-.010

I have a piece of driftwood and some Java moss tied to it, a few days ago I notice these little pods?, about 6 of them, hanging from the java moss, they seem to be duplicating and are scattered around the substrate.

at first I thought they might be.....waste, But they seem to be too perfect in size, color..... too large for any of the fish in that tank, except possibly the Glown Pleco. They looked to be hanging from the java moss almost as if it was a seed when I first noticed them. I've never had snails before, is it possible that this is their waste? or Eggs possibly?
 

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What ferts are you using? When you have adequate lighting and are using CO2 the plants need a good source of ferts that provide both macro and micro nutrients. Your nitrates are 0 which is bad. What is your phosphate level? In planted tanks a level of 10-20ppm for nitrates and 1-3ppm for phosphates is good. You really don't need to measure iron as there is usually always enough in a good micro fert mix. You need to check into dry ferts.

As for the "nuggets" they look like pleco waste to me.
 
Thanks for the replies.

Rivercats, this is very freshly planted, like 7 days, and that was prior to any dosing, although the root tabs were in already. I'm using Seachem, Flourish excel and the NPK pack, although the first doses were yesterday, right after checking all the levels to ensure the tank was cycled completely, The tank was originally lightly planted with SA Cichlids, but last weekend I moved them into their new tank.

I wanted to ensure that I kept the cycle, I kept about 50% of the water, The filters stayed with the planted tank, although I did replace the substrate, (which I know holds the majority of colonized bacteria), The decor also was in the tank already, so I'm hoping that the bacteria that was on the background, decor and in the filter, colonized pretty quick, and as of now, I have no Ammonia spike and since all the other levels were at 0, that I kept my cycle, although I'm monitoring.

I'm also still trying to fine tune the Co2 and lighting, I have a 4 bulb, HO T5, But reading a lot of threads here, Its suggested that might be overkill, so I've got one set of lights burning for about 4 hours, then both kick in for 3 hours simulating mid day, then back to 2 for the remainder of the day, for a total of 10 hours. I also moved the location of the tank as I was getting a lot of Algae, from natural sun, but also added a lot of plants, and the phosphate level is also reduced since the SA's were in the tank, seemed to have slowed the algae quite a bit.

What dry ferts do you recommend? I'm new to planted tanks, so open to any and all advise and suggestions. Thanks again.
 
Actually you have very little BB in the substrate. It is mostly located in the filter media where oxygen and food is constantly flowing over it.

10 hours is still a lot of light so just watch it closely. The standard usually is the higher the light the shorter the photoperiod.

As for dry fert this $15 package is all you need and will last a couple years... Estimative Index | Aquarium Fertilizer | Green Leaf Aquariums.

You need 3 dosing bottles found at the bottom of this page... Aquarium Plant Fertilizer | Green Leaf Aquariums.

This is a good thread about dosing PPS-Pro. Only read the opening post not all the comments after it.... Newbie Guide to PPS-Pro - PPS Analysis and Feedback - Aquatic Plant Central.

There are two things I do different from the article. First I use 3 dosing bottles as I split the macro nutrients for better custom dosing to the needs of the tank. Nitrates in one bottle, phosphates and potassium in one bottle, and micro's in the 3rd bottle. The other thing you'll notice the recipe calls for using MgSO4, magnesium sulfate, which you don't need if you have hard tap water with a Gh and Kh of 4 or higher.
 
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