Canister filters

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Hmm, good to know! Are there any sort of nitrifying medias? For instance is there a way to help help remove nitrates from the water w/o water changes is there a way to get your tank to work almost on it's own?
 
Hmm, good to know! Are there any sort of nitrifying medias? For instance is there a way to help help remove nitrates from the water w/o water changes is there a way to get your tank to work almost on it's own?


Following now :)

There are bio media which can be set up - I know slower water rates can sometimes be needed. I've looked at it for a separate slow water rate filter but my water has low kh so I have to do water changes (I do add buffers as well but a pwc removes any other toxins). The back half of the tank is now pretty heavily planted in mine so that helps me keep nitrates down.


http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/denitrate.html
 
Alright I'm gunna have to look into a way to get a sink pump to work o/w a hose through the window will have to be the solution and that suuuuccckksss.


When I lived in a previous house, my tank was close enough to the window that I stuck the outlet side of the filter thru the window to drain the tank ??. I measured the hoses prior to cutting so the intake was about 3-4" off the bottom and the outlet wound up being about 16" longer. It just happened to work out perfectly.


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What bio media should I buy and how much? I'm probably going to order it online if possible. Maybe on friday after I get my pay check.
 
I'm ordering the fluval 406 fri. Morning and plan on taking back the hob, it's ludicrously loud and I've already replaced the impeller once. How much time should I allow for the canister to cycle before removing the hob?
 
I'm ordering the fluval 406 fri. Morning and plan on taking back the hob, it's ludicrously loud and I've already replaced the impeller once. How much time should I allow for the canister to cycle before removing the hob?


Well as long as the HoB is running it might speed up the canister somewhat.

I'd still give it at least a month though.

Nobody likes a mini-cycle.

Perhaps if you use products such as Fluval Cycle you could dose the tank once the canister is running for that extra kick.


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Is it even worth having carbon in my canister? If not I'll go pick up some ceramic media for the cartridges with carbon that came in them.
 
Is it even worth having carbon in my canister? If not I'll go pick up some ceramic media for the cartridges with carbon that came in them.


It's not necessary, per se, but it definitely gives the tank a clean and crisp look.

Also the costs of carbon will stack up...

Extra bio-filtration is always a good thing.


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you can put a tee on the flexible hose under the sink with a valve on it and hook your hose to it , it will take 5 minutes to hook up and the have all the parts at home depot for a few dollars ,much cheaper than dead fish
chem pure or purigen , will make your tank look like there is no water in it and also lessen the need for water changes
but weekly water changes are best for your fish
fish like African cichlids ,neon tetras and discus are very sensitive to high ammonia and nitrite levels so you will have to test your water more often
I pump the water out of my tank with a pond filter pump and fill it with a garden hose and it take less than 1/2 hour but I have well water so it needs no treatment
 
I just carry the water around, I can use the exercise tbh. Pump it with a hand pump etc. I do however still want the maximum ammonia, nitrite and nitrate "filtration" possible.
 
Oh sorry, for some reason the whole post didn't appear. Thank you for the recommendations on products however, I feel that it may just be better to do my wcs and keep my bio filtration as high as possible.
 
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