Can't get my ammo down!

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BeavisMom62

Aquarium Advice Freak
Joined
Oct 4, 2009
Messages
325
Location
East Central FL
On 5-8-11 I noticed my rainbow shark had fin rot, "white eyes" (not pop eyes) and white "stuff" on his mouth and on his head. Did a water test and noticed I had ph of less than 6, ammo of .5, nitrite of 0 and nitrate was 40! Very abnormal for this tank and the probable cause of the shark's problems. I've been doing water changes and it seems that the ammo is getting higher. (the shark is in a hospital tank and has been treated with antibiotics and melafix. He's fine right now in the hospital tank). The parameters below are from today after numerous w/c's yesterday.

1). What are the pH, KH, Ammonia, NitrIte, and NitrAte levels?

ph 7, KH?, Ammo .5-1 !, nitrite 0, Nitrate 5

2). What test kit do you use? (Including if it is a liquid or dip stick form) API Master

3). How long has the tank been running? since 6-09 approx

4). How many gallons/liters is the tank? 60 gal

5). What are the dimensions of the tank?... 36" L x 19" W x 20" tall

6). What is the frequency of the water changes, and how much water is changed each time?

usually 50-60% every two weeks, lately every other day to daily

7). Do you use well water or city water, and do you treat for chlorine/chloramine? (What product do you use to treat water?)
City water, Prime

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. What products, chemicals, and/or medicines have been used or added to the tank? Coral gravel in the filter to stabilize ph and cuttlebone for calcium for the snails

9). Tank inhabitants (number, size and type of fish/frogs)?
4 angels, 2 BN's, 2 apple snails, 1 "ivory" snail, 1 raphael cat, 1 DG, 1 platy, 1 serpae tetra, 1 rainbow shark (in hospital tank right now)

10). If this is a possible aggression problem, what sort of cover is available for the fish? No aggression, but three caves and usually lots of plastic plants (taken out yesterday for ease of cleaning)

11). Give a detailed description of any behavior/or color changes. 75% w/c on 5-5, on 5-8 noticed the shark had fin rot and probably bacterial infection, white "stuff" on his fins, mouth, head and his eyes were white. None of the other fish are affected. YET!

12). Give a detailed description of the problem. High ammonia. It was .5 on 5-8, on 5-9 after a 50% w/c it was .5-1`. Did a 50% w/c on 5-10 (didn't do a test that day). On 5-13 ammo of .5 - 1!!!! DId a 50% w/c, added water, then did a 30% w/c. Tested the water tonite and ammo is still .5-1!!

13). Unusual findings on fish and/or unusual behavior? Only the shark as above. The other smaller fish might be a little lethargic. The apple snails were too, until I started with the consecutive water changes, now they are improved.

14). Aeration? Bubble wall.

15). Filtration? Emperor 400 and an Aqua-Tech 20-40.

16). What, how much and how often are the fish/frogs fed? Once daily, fast on Sundays. Alternate between flakes, granuels, crisps, also algae tabs for the BN's and snails, occasional frozen blood worms and frozen "Freshwater Multi-pack" and "Emerald Entree", romaine, zucchini, cucumber, peas.....

17). New additions/changes to the tank? None

18). Medications/what has been tried or done do far? Water changes. Removed shark to hospital tank. Removed the plastic plants, but left the driftwood and three "caves".

19). Summary of potential fish/frog stressors? Extremely high ammonia with no cause found!!!

What in the world could cause such incredibly high ammonia that seems resistant to water changes. Can't find a cause. No dead fish. That I can find. I have lost two serpae tetras and 1 platy within the past few months but I would think that by now something would have eaten them. The tank is pretty bare, can't find any dead bodies. No live plants in the tank to be rotting. The gravel has been vac'd pretty well over the past week, so no rotting food or waste.

Admittedly, this tank isn't cleaned as often as the other tanks (My Python broke and I have to haul 5 gal buckets of water! Changed out 7 buckets yesterday) but I keep an eye on the nitrate and if it starts to get high, then I will definitely change the water. But I've never had an ammo problem. Nitrate and nitrite are good. Shouldn't be any sort of minicycle.

Although I did take the filter media out of the AT filter during the last week of April to use to help cycle my newly set up 55 gal tank. But I didn't touch the larger Emperor filter. And I left sponges in the AT filter as well as the Emperor. Shouldn' have affected the cycle.

So in short, what could be causing such a sustained high ammonia level that isn't improved with water changes? What can I do? This is scaring me. I want to take the shark out of the hospital tank and return him to this 60 gal tank, but not while the water isn't perfect.

I've done nothing different. Nothing added or taken away. What could cause this in an established, cycled tank all of a sudden?

HELP!
 
Yes, I've checked. The one filter has new media in it (I used the old media to cycle a new tank) and the other filter is always rinsed out when I do water changes.

Ok, so after another 50% w/c last night, I checked the ammo again today and it is between .5 and 1, closer to 1. I also checked my tap water, which has the exact same reading. So my question is, do I continue to do water changes, when all I'm doing is adding back the same amount of ammo that I'm taking out? Should I maybe wait a few days and hope the bacteria have a chance to take over and lower the ammo? I just hate the thought that my fish are swimming around in that and w/c's aren't helping! This is so frustrating.
 
BeavisMom62 said:
Yes, I've checked. The one filter has new media in it (I used the old media to cycle a new tank) and the other filter is always rinsed out when I do water changes.

Ok, so after another 50% w/c last night, I checked the ammo again today and it is between .5 and 1, closer to 1. I also checked my tap water, which has the exact same reading. So my question is, do I continue to do water changes, when all I'm doing is adding back the same amount of ammo that I'm taking out? Should I maybe wait a few days and hope the bacteria have a chance to take over and lower the ammo? I just hate the thought that my fish are swimming around in that and w/c's aren't helping! This is so frustrating.

Man where do u live? It's rare (to my knowledge) to have ammonia in ur tap water. Should call the council or something haha. But u have a couple of options,
one of them is like what u said wait for ur bacteria to catch up with the ammonia or

u can use seachem prime if u ain't already because prime removes ammonia or

u can add a filter media that absorbs ammonia, Aquaclear makes them it's called ammonia remover

Or (I don't recommend this one as I personally don't believe u need to resort to it) u can use ammo-lock API, I'm sure there's many different brands but they all are meant to remove ammonia. But I've read negative response for using ammo-lock.

All in all I wish u all the best! I know what u are goin through! I hate it when my water parameters ain't right plus having trouble fixing it! Hopefully ur ammoniated tap water is only temporary!

O wait have u tried a different tap? Highly doubt it will be any different but doesn't hurt to try?

Keep us updated!
 
Why don't you test some distilled water too, just to rule out any testing errors. It should read 0 for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, and close to 7 for pH.

Also, what you're describing sounds more like columnaris to me, though sometimes these types of diseases can be quite hard to diagnose.

Also, thank you for using the template... makes things go much quicker and easier for everyone ;)


EDIT: The reason ammonia is in tap water is because the water company uses chloramine rather than chlorine. Chloramine, from my understanding, is chlorine bound with ammonia to keep it from offgassing.
 
mfdrookie516 said:
Why don't you test some distilled water too, just to rule out any testing errors. It should read 0 for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, and close to 7 for pH.

Also, what you're describing sounds more like columnaris to me, though sometimes these types of diseases can be quite hard to diagnose.

Also, thank you for using the template... makes things go much quicker and easier for everyone ;)

EDIT: The reason ammonia is in tap water is because the water company uses chloramine rather than chlorine. Chloramine, from my understanding, is chlorine bound with ammonia to keep it from offgassing.

Templates? Haha sorry i don't wanna go off topic
 
My guess is you have something dead in your tank, or there's a pocket of uneaten food rotting. Either way both are probably hidden around/under a piece of decco.
 
Mr. Limpet said:
My guess is you have something dead in your tank, or there's a pocket of uneaten food rotting. Either way both are probably hidden around/under a piece of decco.

But he's getting ammonia reading from his tap water too
 
i3k, no I'm not testing right after the water change. I did the water change last night and tested the water about an hour ago.

Thanks Hubert. I live in FL and we are known for our nasty tap water. In addition to having ammo in my tap (it used to be .25, not thrilled that its gotten worse), the ph out of my tap is higher than 9! but within days it drops to below 6! I use coral gravel in my filters to keep it stable and thankfully it works. I think I may wait to do another w/c but in the meantime I think I'll dose the Prime at 5x the dose for the ammo. I've been double dosing it, but its not helping. I know its safe at the 5x dose if necessary. I don't want to use chemicals for the ammo, although I do have API Ammo-Chips which I bought years ago before I knew better. I'm sure getting tempted though! LOL.

mfd, I haven't tested distilled water but I have two other tanks and the ammo reading in both of those is 0. So I doubt its the test kit. I too thought it might have been columnaris, which is why I dosed with meds so quickly. Thankfully it wasn't the aggressive kind. I had that once and within HOURS I lost all of my fish. You could almost literally see the stuff grow on the fish! Horrible stuff. The shark is fine. He's been in a hospital tank and was treated with Maracyn/Maracyn 2 for five days with daily water changes. He's finished with meds and still in the hospital tank. I'm still doing daily w/c's (the tank isn't cycled since its a hospital tank) and using some Melafix every other day for a while. But he looks good, the white is gone, his eyes are fine, he's eating and active. Thank goodness.
 
Mr.Limpet, that is what I thought also at first. I recently lost 2 serpae tetras, never to be seen again! Never found their bodies. I guess either the angels or maybe the cats got them. Either that or they jumped out and my dogs got them! But I've checked the filters and rinsed them, removed all the plastic plants in the tank, mostly to make it easier to gravel vac for now. All that's left are three cave type thingys where the raphael cat hides, but I rinsed them out in a bucket yesterday also. Gravel vac'd the whole tank so there's no place for something to be hiding and rotting. It was a good idea though.
 
BeavisMom62 said:
i3k, no I'm not testing right after the water change. I did the water change last night and tested the water about an hour ago.

Thanks Hubert. I live in FL and we are known for our nasty tap water. In addition to having ammo in my tap (it used to be .25, not thrilled that its gotten worse), the ph out of my tap is higher than 9! but within days it drops to below 6! I use coral gravel in my filters to keep it stable and thankfully it works. I think I may wait to do another w/c but in the meantime I think I'll dose the Prime at 5x the dose for the ammo. I've been double dosing it, but its not helping. I know its safe at the 5x dose if necessary. I don't want to use chemicals for the ammo, although I do have API Ammo-Chips which I bought years ago before I knew better. I'm sure getting tempted though! LOL.

mfd, I haven't tested distilled water but I have two other tanks and the ammo reading in both of those is 0. So I doubt its the test kit. I too thought it might have been columnaris, which is why I dosed with meds so quickly. Thankfully it wasn't the aggressive kind. I had that once and within HOURS I lost all of my fish. You could almost literally see the stuff grow on the fish! Horrible stuff. The shark is fine. He's been in a hospital tank and was treated with Maracyn/Maracyn 2 for five days with daily water changes. He's finished with meds and still in the hospital tank. I'm still doing daily w/c's (the tank isn't cycled since its a hospital tank) and using some Melafix every other day for a while. But he looks good, the white is gone, his eyes are fine, he's eating and active. Thank goodness.

Ya to recovery!! And are u sure dozing prime by a factor of 5 is safe? Even if it is it sounds like it's alot! Hahah maybe try buying ammonia remover filter media? But it's up to u :)
 
Yes it's safe. But it sure does take alot of prime to dose a 60 gal tank! with all of these water changes, I'm going through prime like water! LOL. I'm afraid to use ammo removers. I can't remember how they work or why they are bad, but I do know that they aren't recommended. But obviously water changes aren't helping!
 
Mr.Limpet, that is what I thought also at first. I recently lost 2 serpae tetras, never to be seen again! Never found their bodies. I guess either the angels or maybe the cats got them. Either that or they jumped out and my dogs got them! But I've checked the filters and rinsed them, removed all the plastic plants in the tank, mostly to make it easier to gravel vac for now. All that's left are three cave type thingys where the raphael cat hides, but I rinsed them out in a bucket yesterday also. Gravel vac'd the whole tank so there's no place for something to be hiding and rotting. It was a good idea though.

Yep, that covers the concern I was suspecting. I lost an oto and had an ammo spike, which I never see.

If you have chloramines, Prime will bind the ammo in it and make it non-toxic to your fish (bacteria can still use it), but it still shows up when testing. Prime is active/functional for 48hrs per Seachem so you may be seeing it in testing, but it's (mostly) harmless to fish.
 
After what mr limpet and others said, I think u should wait for a few days to see if ure ammonia reduces! Coz u don't want to increase it dosage for no reason.
 
Thanks MrLimpet. I didn't know Prime showed up on tests for so long. So, I guess I'll add a little bit more just in case and not test the water for a couple of days and see, huh? And also leave the w/c's alone for now? Dang, I hate to do that, thinking those poor fish are swimming in it, but if the Prime makes it non-toxic, then that should be ok, eh?
 
Thanks MrLimpet. I didn't know Prime showed up on tests for so long. So, I guess I'll add a little bit more just in case and not test the water for a couple of days and see, huh? And also leave the w/c's alone for now? Dang, I hate to do that, thinking those poor fish are swimming in it, but if the Prime makes it non-toxic, then that should be ok, eh?

According to Seachem, if you test immediately are dosing you'll not see ammo and if you wait (they don't say how long) it'll show up. You can dose up to 5X the norm (2 drops/gal) on occasion and it helps cut no2 and no3 too.

As for your fish, I'd keep an eye on them and see how they're looking. If there's rapid gill movement, red gills and top breathing then I'd say you need to be concerned. If they look normal and happy, you're good to go IMO/E.
 
Thanks so much. Looks like we have a plan then. I've been keeping an eye on the fish and so far, so good. Strangely, before the shark was affected, I noticed one of my apple snails wasn't looking well. He's pretty old, so I just thought he was dying (this was before I knew what was going on in that tank). But now since the water has been being changed, he's back to normal. I should have taken that as a sign and tested the water at that time. Then I could have taken action and maybe the shark might not have been affected. Ah, what is it that they say about hindsight? LOL.
 
i3k, no I'm not testing right after the water change. I did the water change last night and tested the water about an hour ago.

You have to test 36 hours after the last time you treated the water with prime for an accurate ammonia reading.
 
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