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Shadow_Sight

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Dec 25, 2021
Messages
9
I just received a 3 gallon tank for Christmas from my cousin and they said they would by me a fish of my choice too. Well, then I decided on betta. I’ll update when I get the fish and ya da but I wanna asked about the tank height. I read in a article that the tank has to be on the length side, so I’m wondering whether the tank (10.9 inch high and 9.6 inch length tank) would be a sufficient tank for betta? -A random 9 year old. P.S This is my second time in years I’ve ever handled a fish (another betta). My first fish lived for 2.5 years so I guess this one will live for about 3 years.
 
A 3g tank is the smallest size tank you could get away with keeping a betta in. 5g would be better, especially for a beginner. More water volume is easier to manage water quality.

Are you aware of the nitrogen cycle and how to cycle a tank?

Link to some articles for new fishkeepers.

https://www.aquariumadvice.com/foru...ou-get-started-with-your-aquarium-154837.html

Bettas tend to live 3 to 4 years, if its 6 months old when you buy him you could expect to see him live another 3 years.
 
Thanks for the link and response, don’t think I know the nitrogen cycle or how to cycle a tank since I my mom set up the tank of the first fish I got and I don’t know much about fish keeping. Also, I don’t think I’ll be able acquire a 5g tank anytime soon, might be couple of weeks but I think I’ll get it eventually.
 
Thanks for the link and response, don’t think I know the nitrogen cycle or how to cycle a tank since I my mom set up the tank of the first fish I got and I don’t know much about fish keeping. Also, I don’t think I’ll be able acquire a 5g tank anytime soon, might be couple of weeks but I think I’ll get it eventually.

The 3 gallon will suffice. Do not worry about tracking down a 5 gallon. Just keep an eye on your new betta to make sure he is doing well during the initial few weeks. At this point the #1 mistake most people make is over feeding. A small amount of food (enough for the fish to eat in 15-20 seconds) once a day is really all they need. The only time you will get into trouble with a betta is if you are dumping far too much food into a small container. Decomposing food can result in bad water quality very quickly in a small tank.

Read the article that Aiken Drum posted to inform yourself about the nitrogen cycle, and feed sparingly. A small partial water change of 50% once every week or two along with reasonable feeding and your betta should give you years of enjoyment. If you run into issues this forum is a wealth of knowledge and should be able to help you through any difficulties you face.
 
The nitrogen cycle is the natural processes that go on in your tank that convert ammonia into less harmful substances.

Ammonia gets into your tank through various pathways. Fish waste, decaying uneaten food, and dead, decaying plants are common ammonia sources in an aquarium. Its also possible your tap water is an ammonia source. Chloramine is a common water treatment and when treated with most water conditioners the bond in the chloramine breaks and releases ammonia into the water.

Ammonia can be toxic to fish, depending on how much there is, and what the pH and temperature of your tank water is.

The first stage of the nitrogen cycle is the removal of ammonia. If you have real plants in your tank some of this ammonia will be absorbed as part of their natural growth. Generally though ammonia is consumed by denitrifying bacteria that lives mostly on your filter media. These bacteria consume the ammonia and produce nitrite. Unfortunately nitrite is pretty much as toxic to fish as ammonia.

The second stage of the nitrogen cycle is the removal of nitrite. A different denitrifying bacteria will consume the nitrite and produce nitrate. Nitrate is much less harmful than ammonia and nitrite, and for most aquariums the nitrogen cycle ends there. Excess nitrate is removed through your regular water changes.

A further stage of the nitrogen cycle can also happen, but its difficult to remove all the nitrate from a typical freshwater aquarium. Plants will absorb some nitrate in a similar manner to how it absorbs ammonia to grow. There are also nitrifying bacteria that consumes nitrate and gives off nitrogen gas which will simply offgas from your aquarium. This nitrifying bacteria is difficult to grow in freshwater aquarium.

“Cycling” a tank is the process you go through to grow denitrifying bacteria in your aquarium to consume ammonia and nitrite. You are said to be “cycled” when you have enough bacteria to consume all the ammonia and nitrite that your tank produces and turns all of it into nitrate. If you test the water of a cycled tank you should see 0 ammonia and nitrite and some nitrate.
 
To cycle a tank you need to grow denitrifying bacteria to consume ammonia and nitrite that your tank produces. The bacteria needs an ammonia source to grow colonies sufficient in size to consume all the ammonia and resultant nitrite and turn it into nitrate which typically you remove through your regular water changes.

A fish in cycle uses fish waste as an ammonia source and regular water changes are undertaken to ensure that water parameters are maintained at relatively non toxic levels.

Set up your tank. Make sure everything is running smoothly. Make sure you have used a water conditioner product with any tap water you have put in your tank. Seachem Prime is a water conditioner that will also detoxify some ammonia for a day or two, so is a good choice for a water conditioner while cycling a tank with fish.

You should have a test kit. Preferably a liquid test kit. It should test for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

In ideal circumstances you should be starting a fishless cycle with a low bioload (number of fish). 1 small fish per 10 gallons/40 litres is a good number of fish, but this can be tweaked a little for fish that are social and don’t do well on their own. Ideally a hardy type of fish. You may have fully stocked (or overstocked) your tank before you knew about cycling. In these circumstances, if its not possible to return fish, you will have to make the best of it.

If you haven’t already done so, add your fish. Acclimate them to the water in your tank before doing so.

Start to regularly test the water for ammonia and nitrite. At least daily. Depending on your bioload you could start to see ammonia quite quickly. Nitrite will likely take a little longer to appear.

Your target should be to keep ammonia + nitrite combined no higher than 0.5ppm by changing water whenever your water parameters exceed this target. 0.5ppm combined is a level of waste that is sufficient for your cycle to establish but relatively safe for your fish.

If you see 0.5ppm ammonia and 0.0ppm nitrite (0.5ppm combined) then leave things be. If you see 0.5ppm ammonia and 0.25ppm nitrite (0.75ppm combined) then change 1/3 of the water. If you see 0.25ppm ammonia and 0.75ppm nitrite (1.0ppm combined) then change 1/2 the water. If water parameters get worse than these levels it may require multiple daily 50% water changes to maintain safe water conditions. This is more likely to happen with a fully stocked tank.

Remember to add water conditioner whenever you put tap water in the tank.

Over time the frequency of water changes and amount you need to change to maintain your ammonia + nitrite combined target will reduce. You can also start testing for nitrate and should see this rising. If you are finding the ammonia and nitrite in your tests are consistently low, and you aren’t already fully stocked, you can add a few more fish. It may take a few weeks to get to this point.

Once you add a few more fish, continue to regularly test the water and continue to change water if you exceed the 0.5ppm combined ammonia + nitrite target. With added bioload the frequency of water changes and amount you need to change may increase again until your cycle has caught up. Again once you are consistently seeing low ammonia and nitrite you can add some more fish. Rinse and repeat with testing, water changes, and adding fish when safe to do so until you are fully stocked.

You can then cut back on water changes to control nitrate only. Typically you want to keep nitrate no higher than 40ppm, but I would recommend changing some water every 2 weeks even if your water test says you don’t need to.

A fish in cycle from an empty tank to fully stocked can take several months.

A good way to speed up this process would be to put a small amount of filter media from an established filter into your filter, or get a sponge from an established filter and squeeze it into your tank water. Perhaps you have a friend who keeps fish who could let you have some? This will seed your filter with the bacteria you are trying to grow and speed up the process.

Another option is bottled bacteria like Dr Tims One + Only or Tetra Safestart. These products wont instantly cycle a tank as they claim but in a similar manner to adding established filter media they can seed your filter with the bacteria you are trying to grow to establish your cycle. These products are hit and miss as to whether they work at all, but are an option if established filter media isnt obtainable and may speed up the process from several months to several weeks.
 
The 3 gallon will suffice. Do not worry about tracking down a 5 gallon. Just keep an eye on your new betta to make sure he is doing well during the initial few weeks. At this point the #1 mistake most people make is over feeding. A small amount of food (enough for the fish to eat in 15-20 seconds) once a day is really all they need. The only time you will get into trouble with a betta is if you are dumping far too much food into a small container. Decomposing food can result in bad water quality very quickly in a small tank.

Read the article that Aiken Drum posted to inform yourself about the nitrogen cycle, and feed sparingly. A small partial water change of 50% once every week or two along with reasonable feeding and your betta should give you years of enjoyment. If you run into issues this forum is a wealth of knowledge and should be able to help you through any difficulties you face.
Thank you a lot! I’ll make sure not to overfeed my fish, and read the article too.
 
Update

So I’ve just found out from my cousin that the betta will arrive roughly in four weeks. Do I do anything to prepare ahead of time? Like, set up the tank? -A random 9 year old
 
Update 2

Just finished tacking down where I want the aquarium to be and the lights. No idea how to set up the filter though. Left:filter Bottom right corner: ceramic tubes Far left: lid b
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Update 3

Okay, just another image of the photo above me, but brighter.
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Update

Well think this is how you set the filter? Or is it the other way?
 

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Try looking up your new tank online for directions. Hopefully you still have the box with the name and model number. If not, look around the tank (including bottom) and all the parts for the name and type (like maybe "Pro-100" or "Mini-1" or something).

Google that with "directions" or "set up" after it. If you don't find it right away, keep scrolling. You may even find videos of people unboxing and setting up your same tank, or another that's similar from the same company.

Filter holders often have a little groove that the filter slides into, so that's the clue as to where it goes. I think I see a black plastic tab on your filter that is the little handle to hold it while you slide it into the groove.
 
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