Co2 dilemma

[Gonjinn]

I'll try to keep it short!
Set up: 180l tank, 4 months old, ada amazonia soil, external canister filter.
I have a co2 system with ph regulator. Kh is between 3 and 4, so the regulator keeps ph at 6.8. After a while i noticed that plants were not really growing fast or nicely and my shrimps would spend most time near the surface, so i thought there was not enough co2 and not enough oxigen too!
I now have the co2 connected to the lights timer, so it stops when the lights are off and an air pump that comes on at night. Shrimps seems a bit happier, plants still quite sad. I decided to get a drop checker as a second check and it is blue...so, despite the controller, co2 is low. I'm now thinking to get an in line atomiser for the co2 but was wondering if you guys have any clue of what might be wrong. The ph controller seems ok, since i get the same values with my API test and the outlet is just rippling the surface, not bubbling it. Thanks for the attention!

 

[philipraposo198]

Ok, so you should be aiming for a ph of 6.5 with a kh of 3.5-4 to get good co2 levels, not 6.8. But what your shrimp and fish.

How are you diffusing the co2 now? Inline reactors are great and should be considered. Make sure you dont have too much surface agitation when co2 is on.

 

[Gonjinn]

Thanks

Thanks for your reply. When i checked the ph/kh table, 6.8 seemed ok, but i thought about cheating by bringing it further down. Thing is, in the morning, after it's been off all night, ph is at 7.3. I think is the amazonia making the water very basic. I have cherry and rili shrips, my fish are tetras, danios and otos, i think they would all be fine if i lower the ph gradually, but i need to improve saturation. I have an internal diffuser and just moved it near the filter intake, so part of it goes in the filter. If it doesn't work, i'll switch to an in line atomiser.

 

[bcarl_10gal]

When using Aquasoil you cant judge Co2 from pH since the aquasoil is already pushing the pH down. Is this a new setup? Do you have ammonia in the tank?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Gonjinn]

The tank is 4 months old. All values are at zero, including nitrates, which i find a bit odd given i have 20 fish, 6 shrimps and an apple snail. I'm trying to figure out how much of a "new tank sindrome" i may have, but other than a fair amount of long hair green algae, everithing seems fine.

 

[bcarl_10gal]

How is your canister output setup in the tank?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Gonjinn]

Is a fluval 306, standad setup with the outlet on top and inlet on bottom on the same corner. Co2 diffuser was on the opposite corner and mist was flying everywhere and sticking on threes and plants. Now, as said, i moved it close to the inlet.

 

[PerfectDepth]

Co2 aside, zero nitrates is a problem. Get some ferts in the water, then set your ph controller for one full point lower than your baseline pH. To get your baseline reading, de-gas a cup of tank water by letting it sit overnight, or about 30 minutes with an airstone, then test the pH. A 1.0 difference should be right around 30 ppm co2, push it down to a difference of 1.2 if it's not quite enough. Just make sure to watch your fish closely for signs of discomfort.

As mentioned, aquasoil will alter baseline ph over time, so re-test your baseline ph every few weeks, and adjust your ph controller accordingly.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Gonjinn]

Thanks, will give it a go. Ordered a liquid fertilizer yesterday. Will start adminster it when i get it, although a bit concerned the copper in it might harm the shrimps.

 

[PerfectDepth]

Copper shouldn't be a concern. The tiny amount in supplements isn't adding much more than what is likely already in your source water.

You'll use up the liquid ferts in no time. I recommend getting some dry salts- kno3, kh2po4, k2so4, and a micro mix such as plantex csm+b.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Dallascowboys16]

Copper shouldn't be a concern. The tiny amount in supplements isn't adding much more than what is likely already in your source water.

You'll use up the liquid ferts in no time. I recommend getting some dry salts- kno3, kh2po4, k2so4, and a micro mix such as plantex csm+b.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

On the GLA website you an get all of these for $15. They are called the EI starter package. I still haven't used all of mine up over a year and a half.

 

[bcarl_10gal]

Sorry if I missed this but what is the lighting? Duration and PAR at the substrate?

 

[Gonjinn]

Thanks for the advice, will look into the EI to study dosage etc.
I have 2 t8 tubes 45w each, with reflectors. I don't have a par meter, so would not know how to measure it, but there's an 18in distance between tubes and substrate, so probably not a great radiation reaching the bottom. Although the grass in the only plant growing well at the moment. I keep it on 8hrs a day in two 4hrs intervals, with a 4hrs breack around mid day

 

[PerfectDepth]

Low light.. You could use a bit more light, but if you get co2 sorted out, a steady concentration and good circulation, and have no nutrient deficiencies you'd be surprised at what you can grow. It will be slower growth, but still healthy. It depends on what you want to accomplish and whether or not you want the option of trying some of the more demanding plant species.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Gonjinn]

Thanks all for the advice. In the meanwhile, the ph controller set at 6.3 and possibly the new position of the diffuser has turned the drop checker green-ish. Will see how it goes in the next days and use your bits of information to try and improve!

 

[aqua_chem]

Co2 aside, zero nitrates is a problem. Get some ferts in the water, then set your ph controller for one full point lower than your baseline pH. To get your baseline reading, de-gas a cup of tank water by letting it sit overnight, or about 30 minutes with an airstone, then test the pH. A 1.0 difference should be right around 30 ppm co2, push it down to a difference of 1.2 if it's not quite enough. Just make sure to watch your fish closely for signs of discomfort.

This is good advice, and how you should be going about solving your problem, although I would also recommend getting on top of the fert situation as well.