CO2 frustration

[Batt4Christ]

So, the tank is a standard 55g, Odysea 3-bulbe T5 HO fixture.

CO2 setup is a 20lb bottle, Hydor Regulator and glass bubble counter, and a Hydor Turbo Co2 Diffuser (apparently they don't sell/market them here in the US - I got mine as part of a package deal from an individual).

Anyway - if I set the regulator to 2-3 bubbles per second, the Hydor diffuser puts out very tiny bubbles. BUT, after several months - I just can't get my CO2 levels up to where they need to be. Using a drop checker (with the correct 4dKh solution), I couldn't get levels beyond the blue-green color. Checking my pH, my tap water is 7.4. With CO2 set to 2-3 bps, The pH would drop to 7.3 over the course of several hours. Turning it up to 5-8bps, I could sometimes get the pH down to 7.1-7.2.

A couple of weeks ago, I decided to see how high I could turn up the CO2 without causing the little Hydor diffuser to cavitate and start throwing big bubbles. I actually got it to where the bubbles in the bubble counter were way too fast to count - and after 24 hours, my pH had dropped to 6.9. The liquid in my drop checker was actually fairly green.

So I back off the CO2 to where I can count the bubbles (approximately 6 bps) and by the next day, pH was back to 7.1.

I have experimented with placement of the diffuser, from right under my Emperor 400 HOB filter, to well away from any filters (and everywhere in between). Only way I can get CO2 levels up is by running an insane amount of CO2. Obviously the Hydor is extremely inefficient.

A buddy just recently set up the same size tank, running pressurized CO2, but the reactor/diffuser he has is a Mr. Aqua Turbo 400. He runs 3bpm and his CO2 levels come up considerably more. His drop checker is green at that point. His pH drops down to 6.4 at that injection level.

So I'm at a loss. I think a 20lb CO2 tank should last more than 5 months too.



I have been looking at the RedSea Reactor 500. It has mixed reviews, though mostly positive. I don't have a canister filter (per-se) - I do have a Marineland HOT filter that hangs on the back - but it has all rigid tubing and no provisions for any hose connections.

Someone suggested that I get this and place it immediately above my Hydor:

Amazon.com: Hagen Elite Underwater Mini Filter, UL Listed: Pet Supplies

While I see the logic - it would draw in the small bubble produced by the Hydor further crush and circulate them for more absorption.

I'm wondering if I would be well ahead to just get the Red Sea Reactor 500.

 

[ejaramillo01]

Strange, i just set up my CO2 system. I have a 100G, 20# CO2 tank, ph is 7.6. Milwaukee regulator and a Milwaukee pH Controller. Mr Aqua difuser running under the suction or intake of my Canister Filter (RENA XP4).
I set the counter at 3 bps, the pH droped to 6.8 like in three hours, and had ben there since .....

I dont have a drop checker yet. But maybe a canister filter will help you, trying to difuse the CO2 under the intake to increase dispersion. This will avoid you the cost of the reactor....

 

[rkilling1]

The red sea 500 would be much better then the one that you have, but I'm not sure if it would work well for a 55 gallon tank. I have one on a 28 gallon tank and love it, but I would never put it in my 75. I don't believe it will be able to handle the amount of CO2 in the larger tank.

In my 75 gallon tank, I run a DIY reactor made after Tom Barr's venturi reactor. Works better then most any reactor you could purchase. I have my fully planted high light tank running at 1 bps.

 

[Devon6209]

I have just removed my red sea reactor from my tank today, I have a 60g with the same lighting as you. Today I built an inline diffuser that is on the intake side of my fluval 306. I havnt ran CO2 threw it yet, but will be doing so tomorrow.
My vote is against the red sea. It's not made to diffuse this much CO2. I was having to run at uncountable bps to get anywhere near the desired levels, but I have "soft" water, at ~ 60kh.

 

[Batt4Christ]

The Red Sea 500 claims to be for up to 125 gallon tank.

My buddy's Mr Aqua Turbo 400 is a bit smaller, but apparently a LOT more. efficient

 

[rkilling1]

The Red Sea 500 claims to be for up to 125 gallon tank.

And i'm sure it would do just fine if you only needed your CO2 to be 5ppm.

I don't think it would have an issue dissolving enough CO2 to bring an 125 gallon tank up 30 ppm, but once you add it the O2 content, you will have problems dissolving the amount of gas that you will need.

 

[Batt4Christ]

I wonder how hard it would be to connect this to my HOT Magnum (or a stand alone powerhead)???

http://images.fotop.net/albums2/aas/aas03/P1040062a.jpg

 

[jmazz11]

What is the surface tension of your water like in your tank? Less is better for keeping the co2 in the water.

 

[Batt4Christ]

What is the surface tension of your water like in your tank? Less is better for keeping the co2 in the water.

Surface tension????? help me out

 

[jmazz11]

Is the water at the top "rolling" or just slowly moving? If the water surface is turbulent it will allow the the co2 to escape when it reaches the top. If the water at the top of your tank is calm the co2 won't escape. If I'm not explaining this well let me know

 

[Batt4Christ]

Half the tank, the water surface is very calm, the other half has a very gentle current (the ned with the HOB filter). Even then, the only "turbulence" is that right at the outflow of the HOB filter. I keep the tank completely full to minimize turbulence at the surface specifically because I don't want to lose CO2.

 

[jmazz11]

That sounds good. Not sure man I had a little of the same problem so I added a power head near my difffuser to better distribute the co2. It fixed my issues. I have a 90gl tank with a 5 lb co2 tank and just using an Ada diffuser at 3bps. Drop checkers are crazy cheap on eBay. You should pick one up. Sorry I couldn't be more help

 

[aqua_chem]

Is the HOB the only filter on the tank and/or the only source of circulation? That might be causing a problem.

HOB filters are bad for CO2 injection, sure. And by keeping your tank full, you're minimizing surface agitation that usually causes CO2 loss.

BUT

Those biowheels are suck-tastic for CO2. That might be your issue.

Also, a better diffusion method might be in order. I'm not familiar with the method you are using now, but there are better and cheap methods available to the savy aquarist.

 

[misterc007]

One other thing that I noticed when I was setting up mine was offsetting the timer so the co2 comes on well before the lights do. Got me to where i needed to be when they were on and then it shuts off about an hour prior to lights off. That seemed to work for me. I have the same light by the way but I'm just using a cheap diffuser. and the current from my 306 to distrubute the water evenly threw the tank.

 

[Batt4Christ]

Here's the real kicker - since I don't have a solenoid to shut off my CO2 at night, I figured the pH would at least drop some more at night.

No such luck. pH during the day today - 6.9. pH last night about 4 hours after the lights went off - 6.9.

pH first thing this morning - 6.8.

pH just a few minutes ago - 6.8

 

[aqua_chem]

Sounding more and more like an offgassing problem or poor diffusion efficiency.

 

[Devon6209]

Yea, bad diffusion. U can get a power head to run an inline diffuser

 

[ejaramillo01]

Here's the real kicker - since I don't have a solenoid to shut off my CO2 at night, I figured the pH would at least drop some more at night.

No such luck. pH during the day today - 6.9. pH last night about 4 hours after the lights went off - 6.9.

pH first thing this morning - 6.8.

pH just a few minutes ago - 6.8

And the color in the drop checker was?