CO2 help!

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Big Al's has the XP3 for $98.99

http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsU...umpharmaceuticalsrenafilstarxp3canisterfilter

As for surface agitation, I found that having zero surface agitation led to gasping fish in the morning. With pressurized it is easy to compensate for any loss by turing up the CO2 a bit. I have also recently taken out my solenoid and run the CO2 24/7. I am finding less Ph fluctuation and less algae. The surface agitation, IMO, keeps anything from getting out of control (too much CO2 or too little O2)

I drilled holes in my canister filter outflow, above the water line to get the agitation:
72-surface_agitation.jpg
 
Folks,
Just talked to PetSmart-Rena xp3 is in stock for $105. Going to pick it up tonight!!!
Thanks for the advice!
Any tips for a canister filter newbie????
 
You'll want to get some biomedia to go in it. The XP will come with the sponges you need for mechanical filtration, but you'll want to get either Ceramic Rings or BioBalls for biological filtration. The XP3 comes with 3 baskets for media, which is a lot of space to configure to meet your needs.

I run the 20 and 30ppi sponges in the bottom basket
Ceramic Rings, bioballs, and media for my AC50 HOB in the middle basket
More balls, the micro filter sponge and filter floss in the top basket.

I keep the AC50 media in so that I have seeded material instantly for a QT or to seed a new tank if I ever need it.

Also, remember to take a printout of the online price with you, just in case.
 
neilanh,
Just got your message--im home with the unit
Except--filter media!!!!
Ok--so i need to get bioballs? ceramic rings? Petsmart have all this --what qty?
Thanks
 
you can add this stuff later, not that big of a deal.

Ceramic rings or bioballs do the same thing. I hear that ceramic rings break down over time, and the bioballs do not. I'm currently using both. I don't believe petsmart carries bioballs, however, not that I've ever seen anyway, but they do carry the fluval ceramic rings.

I don't know if it was addressed, but you'll want to run the HOB you currently have in parallel with the canister for a while to build up it's biofilter. Or, you could put the media from the HOB in the canister if you're itching to get rid of it. Just be careful to control the biofilter if you have fish. If not, it's not a worry anyway.
 
folks
any advice on spray bar position? position of inlet tube and red sea reactor 500?
My vision is to put spraybar down left side rear vertically-point flow toward front to tank
Inlet vertical right side rear of tank next to red sea reactor.
Any do and donts?
Thanks Heading out to get ceramic rings and bio balls.
 
That sounds pretty good. I've had my XP3 in my 46 for a month, and I'm still playing with the spraybar location trying to get it how I like it. lol

if you put the reactor by the inlet, and you're not getting 100% dissolving, it'll suck the bubbles up chop them in the impeller to get them dissolved. I'm currently using a glass diffuser directly underneath my intake so it just sucks all the bubbles up.

An in-line reactor is my next step.
 
Just bought the very porous ceramic cylinders from Hydor made in Italy. They are actually very rough and porous. Hopr they dont dissolve!!
So I have foam in the bottom --Ceramic in the center and cabon bag and filter insert on top.

I saw the Fluval ceramic cylinders--they look alot stronger and alot smoother.
But I went the other. you are correct--they do not sell bio balls--do I need them?
 
Ok--im done--Just need to take my AC 500 foam out and stuff it in one of the REna filter trays to keep biological working. Correct?
They give u just enough filter hose to reach each end of a 55. :)!
 
Folks,
Didnt get a chance to move media between filters yet--Have a meeting at work tonight--Hope to get it done and prime and start the Rena Wed nite.
Seems simple--prime the one line and start it up?
Thanks again for all your help.
 
folks,
Im hooking up the Rena
Question--the spray bar flow valve positioned at the top of left side rear of tank. spray Bar is hung vertical Valve is not fully underwater. Does the water flow valve need to be completely submerged? I have it connected right after the elbow between elbow and spray bar. It is in the first inch of tank not under water--Also as water level drops it will be completely out of water. Is this a problem?
thanks
 
Cliffz said:
folks,
Im hooking up the Rena
Question--the spray bar flow valve positioned at the top of left side rear of tank. spray Bar is hung vertical Valve is not fully underwater. Does the water flow valve need to be completely submerged? I have it connected right after the elbow between elbow and spray bar. It is in the first inch of tank not under water--Also as water level drops it will be completely out of water. Is this a problem?
thanks

Will be no problem at all. It can be above or below the water. On mine, depending on the water level, it's under water when I do my PWC, then a few days later after some evaporation, it's at the surface and part of it being out of the water.
 
thanks folks!

Its all set up--I put spray bar on rear wall horizontal--less current than vertical. will check my co2 levels now with no surface turbulance. Next step--in line reactor if levels dont increase. :)
 
Cliffz said:
Phosphates->10

That can't be good. Target for PO4 is more like 1

Drop checker
Ramp CO2 up slowly until you're there (will prevent fish death).
 
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