CO2 Upgrade
- Thread starter mohican
- Start date
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jetajockey
come get me tang police!
Yes, a gang valve or multiple in line nv's like the fabco nv55 would be fine for that.
OK, so I think I have my shopping cart put together. Just to refresh, my tank is 125G; just in case this would be a factor.
- AquaTek Premium Regulator (comes with needle valve)
- NEW Milwaukee MC122 Controller
- S5 CO2 Diffuser from BOYU
I think I will go with standard needle valve that comes with regulator and single diffuser. Hopefully with my tank size the diffusion method will work. I figure I can always upgrade both needle valve and swap diffuser for reactor. How does this look?
- AquaTek Premium Regulator (comes with needle valve)
- NEW Milwaukee MC122 Controller
- S5 CO2 Diffuser from BOYU
I think I will go with standard needle valve that comes with regulator and single diffuser. Hopefully with my tank size the diffusion method will work. I figure I can always upgrade both needle valve and swap diffuser for reactor. How does this look?
CorallineAlgae
Aquarium Advice Addict
That should work fine. It's a pretty standard approach with an added controller. If cost means choosing between a reactor or a controller I recommend the reactor. Don't forget to get a drop checker or two. On a tank this large having two DCs is recommended (one on each side). If you don't already have a low range liquid pH test kit I'd get one for the regent as well as some 4dKH solution.
Just placed the order, nerve wrecking to push the "place order" icon. I do already have 1 drop checker and should be able to pick another up locally. I'm sure I'll be back on asking for more guidance getting things set-up. Thanx for everyone help!!!
jetajockey
come get me tang police!
I think a single drop checker is okay assuming you have a powerhead moving the water around. Once you get the nv dialed in you shouldn't need to watch the drop checker except a routine glance to make sure everything is kosher.
I agree about getting a reactor over a controller.
I agree about getting a reactor over a controller.
I was on the fence between the controller vs reactor and just felt being a rookie that the controller will help keep the tank stable, pH speaking, while I figure what I want to do for a reactor/diffusion method. I'm sure it will be in the works very soon. Knowing me, once I have all the bells and whistles outside the tank, then I can just focus on inside the tank. I found that reactors really aren't that much; especially a DIY.
CorallineAlgae
Aquarium Advice Addict
The PVC reactors are pretty sweet. Some people even use the plastic tube from a gravel vac to make a clear one or paint them black to dress-up the white PVC ones.
So a quick update on the new system. Everything seems to be working fine except I feel like the pH controller is stuck at 6.8. I'm trying to get it down to 6.6-6.7 to give me about 30ppm CO2, but it just ran all evening. It usually turns on/off sporadically. My lights have been off now for almost 2 hrs now and my controller is still activated. Is this normal?
CorallineAlgae
Aquarium Advice Addict
Yes, the controller should be on all the time but the solenoid can be on a timer. This let's you monitor the pH but stop the co2 wham you want it off at night.
CorallineAlgae
Aquarium Advice Addict
mohican said:
It may be above 30ppm if that's the case. It could just be off gassing from the surface. What's your co2 level at 6.7 using the dKH chart? I know it isn't that accurate but it's not bad to check it in a situation like this.
CorallineAlgae
Aquarium Advice Addict
The pH to KH scale isn't exact and sometimes not even all that close. I've had a much higher co2 level than that according to thee chart and never had anything suffer. The chart is a good place to start but buffers in the water make it unreliable. Just go by your drop checker and you'll be close enough. Your fish will usually let you know if it's to high by gasping or acting strange.
The chart seems more accurate than it is because it's a mathematical formula but it's more like the difference between using 4dKH solution in your drop checker or just using tank water. Tank water makes things unreliable. DCs with 4dKH solution are superior to the chart because they measure a stable, known and consistent water sample against the gas dissolved in the (usually questionable and less stable) tank water. Use the chart as a starting point and set your controller by looking at your DC.
But honestly, if you have 37ppm co2 that shouldn't be a problem.
The chart seems more accurate than it is because it's a mathematical formula but it's more like the difference between using 4dKH solution in your drop checker or just using tank water. Tank water makes things unreliable. DCs with 4dKH solution are superior to the chart because they measure a stable, known and consistent water sample against the gas dissolved in the (usually questionable and less stable) tank water. Use the chart as a starting point and set your controller by looking at your DC.
But honestly, if you have 37ppm co2 that shouldn't be a problem.
Thanks AquaChem. I figured it doesn't really matter. I mix and use my own 4 dKH solution and drop checker looks good, green to yellow (red sea version). My pH bounces between 6.6 - 6.7 so its not like off the chart. When do plants begin pearling?
aqua_chem
Aquarium Advice Addict
You can go as high as 70 ppm without too many advise effects. This is a place where drop checkers tend to shine, because they'll tell you when you're too high.
