Cycling issues

[goldfish1212]

I'm trying to cycle my 10 gallon in a fishless cycle but I'm having some issues. I used pure ammonia from the grocery store, unscented etc, and the ammonia went from about 8ppm and dropped and is now going from about 6 ppm to 0 in about two days. However the nitrite, which is now so high my test registers 5ppm in less than 30 seconds, will not drop. There was a little blip 5 days ago where I thought it was dropping, but the next day nitrites were as high as ever. It's been 18 days cycling and around 10 days since the ammonia dropped first and still nothing. Nitrates are at 5ppm and have been for a few days.

There is also something going on with my ph, it's below 6 in the tank which is the lowest my test measures but when I measure the tap water I used originally, the ph is 7.6. What is causing this??? How can i fix the ph crash??? I also have some cholla wood I really want to put in eventually as well, but with the ph already so low how do I offset driftwood bringing it down even more?

I have the tank heated to between 82 and 84 F, I used api stress coat plus to treat the water first and twice now when I need to raise the water levels above the heater. The filter is an aquaclear 20 and I have it going in the middle of the tank with the water down a little to provide aeration. Sand substrate if that matters.

Am I putting in too much ammonia? I didn't want the bacteria to die but should I just leave the ammonia levels down when they fall? I plan to get lots of low light plants, would putting some in now help bring in bacteria cultures or just destroy the cycle? I'm in university without access to brick and mortar fish stores and I don't know anyone with a fish tank nearby so please don't just tell me to get seeded material...

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[goldfish1212]

So I read the thread "the almost complete guide to fishless cycling" and I think i might need to do a big water change to fix the ph and maybe get the cycling back on track. If I were to change, say, 50% of the water would that be ok?

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[Masha]

This all sounds pretty normal for a cycle getting going.
The ph dropping is a concern as they bacteria stop duplicating at ph 6 or below. This is as a result of the bacteria processing ammonia at such a high rate, using up the substances that buffer the water. Adding a bag of crushed coral may help, I don't know if you have access to that kind of thing. Hopefully others can suggest alternatives.

The Nitrite spike is normal at this stage. Do several big water changes to get it down, as it might stall the cycle. Also I recommend you lower the ammonia dose to 2ppm even the 4ppm that is usually recommended, is probably higher than you need, and a lower dose will keep the need for huge water changes because of high nitrites down.

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[goldfish1212]

Ok, if I get some crushed coral from amazon or something, how much do I need? Would it just be a short term to the ph swing or long term to negate driftwood since the ph is 7.6 at the tap.

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[Masha]

I think a small amount of baking soda might do the trick as well. As far as I know, once the cycle is complete, you shouldn't have the dropping ph problem any more

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[goldfish1212]

Ok, thanks ill try some baking soda

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[goldfish1212]

Changed half the water and the ph 3 hrs later is 7. I'll hold off on baking soda and see if the water change alone can raise the ph or if it drops again. Ammonia went from 6 ppm to 2 ppm and nitrites still crazy high.

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[catface]

Water changes are always best to restore the PH.

Why are you dosing the ammonia up to 6ppm? You don't need any more than 4.

In fact, as soon as ammonia goes from 4ppm to 0 in 24 hours, I would drop the dose down to 1ppm ammonia to allow the nitrite eating bacteria to catch up. Once you go from 1ppm ammonia to 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite in 24 hours, dose to 2ppm until the same happens. When it does, you're done!

 

[Masha]

Water changes are always best to restore the PH.

Why are you dosing the ammonia up to 6ppm? You don't need any more than 4.

In fact, as soon as ammonia goes from 4ppm to 0 in 24 hours, I would drop the dose down to 1ppm ammonia to allow the nitrite eating bacteria to catch up. Once you go from 1ppm ammonia to 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite in 24 hours, dose to 2ppm until the same happens. When it does, you're done!

I agree. That's good advice.

 

[catface]

I agree. That's good advice.

The cycling guide on here by Eco23 doesn't actually include that information. I was advised to do that by another forum here in the UK. It worked brilliantly for me and seems to be a fairly common cause of stalling the cycling process.

 

[goldfish1212]

Ok, thanks. I'll lower the ammonia by a lot!

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[catface]

Ok, thanks. I'll lower the ammonia by a lot!

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Use this ammonia calculator to work out how much ammonia to add to get to 1ppm.

Tropical Fish Forums UK - Ammonia Calculator

 

[Masha]

Oh, and just to add a lesson I learned - it' worth getting a small syringe to make sure your ammonia dose is accurate. Teaspoons just don't cut it!

 

[catface]

Oh, and just to add a lesson I learned - it' worth getting a small syringe to make sure your ammonia dose is accurate. Teaspoons just don't cut it!

A good point. You should get one of these included in any decent test kit although I used a separate one for ammonia when cycling and I have a separate one for feeding bloodworm. Just to prevent any possible contamination.

 

[goldfish1212]

I have a small disposable plastic pipet to dose the ammonia, so much easier than trying to guess with a spoon. And thanks for the calculator catface

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