Cycling

[fishywishywowoo]

As you all know ive had some cycling peoblems. Refresher im a first time fish keeper and was badly advised by lfs when setting up. Basically I have a 20g tank with 7 wcmm and 4 hillstream loaches. Tank been set up and running since January. Temp 71.6 ph 6.2 ammonia 4.0 nitrite 0 nitrate 2. Problem ive always had high ammonia. Its usually 8.0! So doing well coming down to 4.0. I usually do daily 50% pwc and it usually stays at 8.0 but its been 4 days since last pwc and its gone down to 4.0? Is it normal to go down but nitrite stay at 0? And is it usual to go down with less frequent pwc? Had to leave it longer due to work. Just want to finish cycling now. Fish all well. Happy healthy amd swimming nicely. No signs of stress or disease
Any advice appreciated

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[gilpi]

I would raise the temp to around 78f and since you're cycling the tank with fish in, daily or every other day pwc is the right thing to do. Do not over feed and be patient. You have more fish than I would put in the tank during cycling.
What is the filter?

 

[fishywishywowoo]

Thanks. The filter came with the tank. It a juwel. Its a big 21/2 inch square 5 layer sponge one. Not sure on types. I know too many. Didnt know what j was doing really when bought as was an impulse buy

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[Rak9378]

The reason your cycle is taking so long is because your pH and temp are both too low. Ideal temperature for the bacteria to grow is between 75-85. As for pH, the ammonia oxidizing bacteria begin to significantly slow down when pH is under 6.5 and pretty much stop at 6.0. Has your pH been that low the whole time? I wouldn't normally recommend altering pH but in your case it may be something to consider. That being said if you did raise the pH you would want to do so slowly and carefully. The reason your fish haven't been harmed with the high ammonia levels that you have had is because the ammonia has been mostly comprised of the non-toxic kind (NH4). Most hobbyist ammonia test kits provide a measurement of Total Ammonia. Total Ammonia is the sum of toxic un-ionized ammonia (NH3) and nontoxic (or far less toxic) ionized ammonia (NH4). Take a look at your test kit bottle...notice how it says NH3/NH4...that's giving you a reading for total ammonia. The amount of ammonia that is comprised of the toxic kind will be determined by pH and temp. Basically the way it works is the higher your pH and temp the more the total ammonia will be comprised of the toxic un-ionized form. So your pH and temp are low enough that virtually all of the ammonia is in the non toxic form. But they are also low enough that it's impeding the cycle. I would recommend reading these two research papers which provide a good overview. Hope you find this helpful.

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa031

https://srac.tamu.edu/index.cfm/getFactSheet/whichfactsheet/111/

 

[fishywishywowoo]

Thanks. Ph used to be a steady 7 but last couple weeks dropped and refuses to raise again

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[Rak9378]

Have you tested KH? The buffering capacity of your water might be too low which resulted in your pH drop.