Do GBRs ever hold thier eggs?

[Skyrmir]

I'm wondering if maybe male GBR's ever hold eggs or fry in thier mouths. My male has been guarding some eggs for the past 4 days and now he's not eating and acting lethargic. He could be having health issues of course, his spots are pretty faded, although his blue/yellow looks brighter than usual.

I'm not sure if he's sick, holding or what. Just not acting himself.

 

[Jchillin]

SA cichlids are not mouth brooders at all, not even to protect them AFAIK. If he is guarding established eggs already laid, he may well be stressed.

 

[BrianNY]

GBRs will guard their eggs and fry, but are not mouth brooders. It's likely that your male is just to preoccupied to worry about eating at the moment.

 

[Skyrmir]

Looks like it's a health issue. When I got home today he was barely swimming, just being real lethargic. Eggs were missing earlier wich is why I wasn't sure if he ate them or was holding them or somethin. Also noticed a white spot about the size of a ram bite on his face. I think he got the loosing end of a fight with the other male at some point in the night. That's the theory I'm working with right now anyway. So he's seperated and sucking down some melafix for now.

On to more breederish type questions though, white eggs, grey eggs. Wich ones are good? This is their 4th or 5th batch of eggs, and I thought they were doing good to have lasted so long without loosing them. I'm planning on stealing thier next batch of eggs to raise myself, I figure it'd be good to know wich ones to get rid of.

 

[Jchillin]

They should appear similar to these.

 

[Skyrmir]

Thanks, found what I was looking for there. White egg = bad/infertile egg. The good ones stay more of a greyish color.

Wich means most if not all of the eggs in the last batch were bad. They started out ok, but more and more turned white over time. I wasn't sure if they were going bad or maturing. Gives me a good reference for watching over the next batch of eggs myself.

 

[Jchillin]

Unfertilized eggs will eventually be taken over by fungus. This is why most if not all breeder's remove to a separate tank and add an anti-fungal.

 

[Guest]

One of the best anti-fungal treatments is hydrogen Peroxide 3% . it dosn't turn the holding tank blue and will turn into water within 30 secounds of being added to the tank. I use it on all my eggs. I pull all my spawns just as soon as I know the male has fertalize them.
I add 2.5ml { useing a sringch from kids medichanes } For ever 3g of water. Add it every 12 hrs. str8 to the water When i was using the blue anti fungal stuff. My hatch % was around 70 to 75% . Now that I use HP 3% it has jumped to almost 95%+ hatch out.
It can even be added to a hatchery tank with the parents in it with no afect on them. After the wigglers are showing i only add the H3% once a day for the frist 4 days this is to help with any fungest that mitappear on the tank bottom.

IMO it's the best and only thing I'll use for my eggs.

 

[Jarred Darque]

I jsut started with trying to breed rams, and heard of the peroxide thing, I gotta say it worked great. and is cheap.