Dreaded Ammonia Levels!!

[Hatachimog]

Hey everyone,I've had my 20 Gallon for about 2 months now
2- Mollys
6-Platys
2-African Dwarf Frogs
1-Pleco


All readings (Ph,Nh2,Nh3) read at normal levels but my ammonia is driving me nuts!
I do 25% water changes every other day, in which I am gravel vac'ing at the same time.
My readings are initially 0ppm but after about 5 minutes they ring in At 2ppms, which is freaking me out.
All the fish seem very active; clear eyes, healthy fins etc.
I have two HOB filters, one is a Penguin 200 and the other Aqueon 20gallon with slow drip blue bacteria housing.
Could I possibly be getting a false reading?
I use Amquel prior to adding water and make sure the temp matches the tank temp.
I feed once a day max, Tetra flAkes which are consumed in about a minute.
I have Gravel. The bio-wheel seems to be as clean as the day I bought it which to me is kind of odd as when I have watched YouTube videos some peoples wheels are very green.
Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

 

[librarygirl]

Have you tested your tap water for ammonia? If you're ammonia is at 0 and then rising after a water change I suspect your tap water. Also if ammonia is at 0 there's no need to do a water change unless nitrites are high or nitrates are over 20 (or unless it's weekly maintenance). Are you vacuuming the substrate? Adding water could be also kicking up detritus stuck in the gravel which could be causing the numbers to spike.

 

[BBradbury]

Hello Hat...

Most aquarium fish will adapt to most public water supplies. If your fish are active, with good color and are eating, then your testing must be in error. Even traces of ammonia are enough to kill most fish.

Single, large, weekly water changes will eliminate 99.9 percent of tank problems. So, change out half the water every week, religiously and the fish and plants will take care of themselves.

Heavily plant the tank. Anubias, Singapore moss, Cryptocroyne, Java fern, Common water weed and Pennywort will all help filter the tank water and the jungle like effect of the tank will calm the fish by making them feel like they're back in their normal habitat.

Most fish keepers overfeed. That's a recipe for unhealthy fish and water problems. Fish can easily subsist on a small variety fed 2 to 3 times a week. The time between feedings is for foraging and cleaning up the leftovers. The fish will do their part to keep the tank clean and be much healthier too.

You don't need to vacuum the gravel. Vacuuming removes good bacteria and the material that falls to the bottom dissolves and nourishes the plants. Any extras are removed when you do your weekly water change. Everything dissolves in the tank water, so by removing large amounts weekly, you'll maintain pure water conditions for the fish and plants.

Just a couple of suggestions. Absolutely your decision.

B

 

[hydrashocker]

Also it almost sounds to me like you are adding too much fresh water which is diluting your good bacteria. Also, are you de-chlorination of the tap water before you place it in the aquarium? Make sure you are matching the water temperatures before adding fresh water to your aquarium. I use a thermometer and check it constantly to match the aquarium water temp so as not to shock the fish or the tank.

Right after my water changes I have always used 1/2 dose AGI Stress Coat to help with the fish stress and their slime coat. Also I would use a bottled bacteria booster like API Stress Zyme to aid in your building of sufficient bacteria load. Every time you are messing with the water you are killing your good bacteria, leave it alone and get some of this bacteria booster. You have to let the bio-films build and you are continuing to disrupting the much needed colonies.

Just my opinion

 

[hydrashocker]

Oh, to answer your question;

The bio-wheel seems to be as clean as the day I bought it which to me is kind of odd as when I have watched YouTube videos some peoples wheels are very green.

Again don't worry. It takes a lot of time to build up those bacteria bio-films on the bio wheels. It might just take you a year, but don't fret, it's slowly building non-the-less you just can't see it yet.

 

[Hatachimog]

thanks everyone for your suggestions!
All my fish are very vibrant, healthy color and super active; sometimes i joke they are on the dancefloor because they are always moving around and so active
i am taking the advice to add some live plants, at present i just have plastic artificial plants. i hope this will help the fish feel more at home. i have no problem whatsoever spoiling my finned friends (^-^)

 

[rmiller]

I would definitely check your tap water for ammonia. If there is ammonia in your tap you're adding more every time you change your water. Check it out and let us know.

 

[Hatachimog]

I'm going to do an ammonia check on my water from the tap AND from my refrigerator tonight because sometimes I use the filtered fridge spigot. Would the Amquel water conditioner help or hinder my tank at all? I spoke to another fish hobbyist and she said the area we live has excellent water straight from the tap. I'll post my results.

 

[Hatachimog]

Ok I just tested my tap water and it's reading a solid 0ppm.

 

[rmiller]

SO if the ammonia isn't coming from the tap water, then your tank isn't cycled or your bio-load has changed and your going thru a mini cycle. Have you recently changed your filter or media? Added anyone new to your tank?

 

[Hatachimog]

I just added two red wagtail platys about three weeks ago And I DID swap out my penguin carbon filter BuT didn't touch the bio-wheel which collects the bacteria I believe. I don't clean my decorations as my gravel vac wont do the job very well.

 

[rmiller]

Sounds like a mini cycle. Keep doing water changes to keep the ammonia and nitrites around .25. Just watch your parameters.

 

[BBradbury]

Your Tank Situation

Hello again Hat...

Just a thought. Since you've had some issues with this small tank, maybe you could consider getting a larger tank and moving every thing to it. I had issues with smaller tanks for quite a while until I got a 30 G and then a 45 G and then moved everything to a 55. The difference in the tanks was considerable. The fish were so much healthier and if I missed a weekly water change (very rare), I didn't have to worry about water chemistry problems.

Anyway, fish are adaptable. The city water people put chloramine in the water to make it safe for you to drink and that's a combination of ammonia and chlorine, so it's not unusual for your tap water to test positive for ammonia. I use Seachem's "Safe" to remove those chemicals.

Consider a larger tank. They're much easier to maintain and your fish and plants may do much better.

B

 

[librarygirl]

What test kit are you using? Strips aren't very accurate; liquid kits are better (e.g. API Master), that was my other thought. Also Prime is an excellent dechlorinator, so next time you're at the store pick some up and ditch the Amquel. Swapping out the filter media could be the culprit; bacteria grow on all surfaces and there would have been a good amount on the filter pad too; generally you don't want to change media unless it's falling apart. In case you haven't seen it, check out this guide, it has some good info: http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f15/guide-to-starting-a-freshwater-aquarium-186089.html

 

[Hatachimog]

I'm going to only gently rinse the filter pad if it's like clearly reducing the flow of water, and even then I have been told to rinse it in tank water not tap, because that could kill all the good bacteria.
I use API liquid test kits, I test at high PH since I read that platies and mollies like 7.8 ph. , I also test No2, No3, and NH3 pretty much on a weekly basis.
I am nearly finished cycling this 20 gallon, I'd feel it such a waste of effort if I just went out and got a 30 or larger. Not because I don't think the fish would benefit but because of the time, care, and effort I just put into this 20 gallon.
I also use API 7.8 PH soluble powder occasionally to maintain the PH levels.

 

[bshenanagins]

In your first post you mentioned after WC's and gravel vac'ing your noticing this spike? It's quite possible that your consistent disturbing of the substrate is releasing the ammonia. Do you check it the next day?

 

[bshenanagins]

I'm going to only gently rinse the filter pad if it's like clearly reducing the flow of water, and even then I have been told to rinse it in tank water not tap, because that could kill all the good bacteria.
I use API liquid test kits, I test at high PH since I read that platies and mollies like 7.8 ph. , I also test No2, No3, and NH3 pretty much on a weekly basis.
I am nearly finished cycling this 20 gallon, I'd feel it such a waste of effort if I just went out and got a 30 or larger. Not because I don't think the fish would benefit but because of the time, care, and effort I just put into this 20 gallon.
I also use API 7.8 PH soluble powder occasionally to maintain the PH levels.

I wouldn't use any PH buffers, it's not necessary. As stated most fish will adapt easily to your PH. Unless its severe like 8's then I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[Hatachimog]

Ok I'm going to avoid using the buffers for the time being, no problem.
With the exception of this morning all of my WCs have been via gravel vac and every time I have vac'd the substrate.
In the back of my mind I was thinking on one hand I'm removing detritus but also stirring up a lot of things when I disturb the gravel.
So this morning I used my gravel vac but just held it in the middle of the tank and removed about 25% of the water and replaced with fresh water, no gravel was disturbed.
The thing that really got my attention was this morning; I checked the tap water I had tested straight from the FAUCET last night and it had just barely turned a tinge of orange (it was bright yellow measuring 0 ppms the night before,and I just let it sit overnight out of curiosity) at the very bottom of the vile, which was assuring me that my ammonia levels directly from the faucet are excellent.This was quite striking to me because when I had tested the ammonia levels in my TANK,within minutes it would go from yellow to a solid green color within ten minutes ,let alone checking it the next day.

 

[rmiller]

Make sure you check your color chart at the timing interval the directions indicate. Waiting 5 extra minutes will give you a different reading, 24 hours would be drastic. The chemicals are formulated to be read at the optimal time.

 

[hydrashocker]

I think I figured out your problem!

If you are using a manciple water supply they could be using chlorine and Chloramine. If you use just a basic chlorine remover like API brand it will change the Chloramine into Amonia in a very short time giving you your spikes like clock work. Go down to your local pet store and buy a product named "Prime" in a red labeled bottle. That is the only one i know of that will remove both Chlorine and Chloramine.

Not all municipalities use Chloramine, but they sometimes will in conjunction with chlorine.