dying fish
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peaceablegarden
Aquarium Advice Freak
When you say the water is perfect, could you please be specific and post your parameters? Any symptoms, like lethargy, fin clamping, breathing difficulties, white spots, bloating, etc...?
the nitrates/rites are 0. the chlorine is 0. the water is soft. the ph is 7.5. the alkalinity is 40ppm. all the fish that die, do have bloated fins. but they die from different diseases. one died from body fungus, the other died from cloud eye. also, the diseases appear suddenly. the night before the fish are fine, in the morning they are deadly sick, and at night they are dead.
peaceablegarden
Aquarium Advice Freak
Not sure if you mean chlorine or ammonia? If you haven't measured ammonia, that would be another parameter to know. It looks like you are in a cycle if your nitrAtes are 0 which could point to a water quality issue which could account for the differing problems with the fish. I would start with a hefty water change of about 50% and then 25-30% daily changes and monitor the water parameters. How long has your tank been running?
missileman
Aquarium Advice FINatic
I agree,
A cycled tank should have some nitrate showing.
If there are no nitrates I would be very surprised if you don't have amonia which could kill your fish.
PS: from a previous post it looks like you are confusing nitrite and nitrate and thinking they are the same. Research cycling an aquarium.
You start with amonia from fish waste and uneaten food. Amonia is very deadly to fish and should never be allowed to go above 1ppm with fish in the tank.
A bacteria will colonize the tank eventually that will consume the amonia and convert it to nitrite.Nitrite is even more deadly than amonia and again should not be allowed to go above 1ppm (some say not above 0.5ppm)
Another type of bacteria will eventually establish itself that will consume the nitrite and convert it to nitrate. Nitrate is the safest form and most sources agree that up to 40ppm is safe for most fish. I have seen research that claims up to 100ppm is safe. I try to keep my tanks below 20ppm myself.
Unless you have added bacteria from another source to your tank the average cycle takes 6 to 8 weeks.
A cycled tank should have some nitrate showing.
If there are no nitrates I would be very surprised if you don't have amonia which could kill your fish.
PS: from a previous post it looks like you are confusing nitrite and nitrate and thinking they are the same. Research cycling an aquarium.
You start with amonia from fish waste and uneaten food. Amonia is very deadly to fish and should never be allowed to go above 1ppm with fish in the tank.
A bacteria will colonize the tank eventually that will consume the amonia and convert it to nitrite.Nitrite is even more deadly than amonia and again should not be allowed to go above 1ppm (some say not above 0.5ppm)
Another type of bacteria will eventually establish itself that will consume the nitrite and convert it to nitrate. Nitrate is the safest form and most sources agree that up to 40ppm is safe for most fish. I have seen research that claims up to 100ppm is safe. I try to keep my tanks below 20ppm myself.
Unless you have added bacteria from another source to your tank the average cycle takes 6 to 8 weeks.
i have had my tank for about 2 months. the ammonia is 0 and i double checked my nitrates are at about 20ppm. and for some reason, only my smaller fish die. i have my fish in pairs and out of each pair only the smaller, weaker one dies.
Tank sounds like it is in fact cycled. Did you buy all the fish from the same LFS? How did you acclimate the fish before adding to the tank? What is your mx schedule (ie. how often/how much for PWCs, are you using a good dechlor, are you adding any other chemicals to the tank)?
i bought all of my fish from petco. i acclimate the fish by floating them in their bag for 30-60 minutes on top of the water. i have had the fish for as long as i have had the tank though. i change the water every week, 10-20%. the dechlorinator i use is stress coat dechlorinator. whenever i change the water i add some aquarium salt to kill anything that might have gone in with the water.
Do you have any idea how much salt is in your tank? This is why a lot of people disagree with adding salt to tanks. Many newbies will just top off their tank (not taking any water OUT) and add more salt. You have no way of telling how much salt you actually have in there, you would need a hydrometer to tell.
Concur. Big chains recommend salt for everyone, but it is not necessary for most small home aquaria, and can be down right harmful if not dosed correctly.
my ph is at 7.5-8 and the fish do not live in the same tank there. the problems startes recently. i have had the fish for about 2 months. and also, whenever i change the water the old water comes out blue. i have blue gravel on the bottom, no plants.
Those stores generally do not have independent filtration for each tank - all the tanks are using the same water for the most part.
Was it aquarium gravel that you added? Did you rinse it well before adding it to the tank? I wonder if not doing that, which would increase your TDS, could result in rising stress levels making fish more susceptable to bacterial or fungal diseases?
Was it aquarium gravel that you added? Did you rinse it well before adding it to the tank? I wonder if not doing that, which would increase your TDS, could result in rising stress levels making fish more susceptable to bacterial or fungal diseases?
jim692
Aquarium Advice Freak
What is the tank temperature? Is the heater working correctly?
Also, what filtration is on the tank?
Also, what filtration is on the tank?
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