Fish in Cycle

[southerngirl]

I thought I would make a thread to be updated while going through the cycling process..

I am new to the forum, hello all =)

Many years ago (like 15) we had a nice fish tank but I was not the primary care taker, all I did was oooh and aaah over that tank and the blue crayfish inside it.

So I want my own tank and am determined to learn to be a good fish keeper..

That said... the specs. one question? how can i be sure this is all sufficient equipment.

tank one.. 5 gallons , has standard filter system and lighted hood (kit bought at walmart) .. currently there is one betta fish inside. Tank set up yesterday. Treated the water with dechlorinating conditioner, and some freshwater salt.


tank two... 29 gallons.. standard filter system from kit and tank sold at wally world. I bought it used and got a really good deal. Also has a heater and a blue colored bubble wand? (not sure what it is called but there's lots of bubbles in the tank) ....... Currently there are 4 Zebra Danio's inside.

Tank set up last wed, so 8/21.. fish added yesterday 8/25 Water tested and everything was at 0 but ph was way too high... I treated the water with ph lowering stuff along with the water conditioner and freshwater salt. yes, the fish store guy told me I needed all this stuff... then further reading tells me I don't.

Will post another update after I test my water. For anyone reading, how can I be sure of the type of filter this is and heater? I have paperwork on neither of these tanks. I want to be sure that the tank is set up best possible.

I also need to buy a vaccum any suggestions on that? Least expensive for now, I have already invested alot of money so far.

 

[shellieca]

I thought I would make a thread to be updated while going through the cycling process..

I am new to the forum, hello all =)

Many years ago (like 15) we had a nice fish tank but I was not the primary care taker, all I did was oooh and aaah over that tank and the blue crayfish inside it.

So I want my own tank and am determined to learn to be a good fish keeper..

That said... the specs. one question? how can i be sure this is all sufficient equipment.

tank one.. 5 gallons , has standard filter system and lighted hood (kit bought at walmart) .. currently there is one betta fish inside. Tank set up yesterday. Treated the water with dechlorinating conditioner, and some freshwater salt.

tank two... 29 gallons.. standard filter system from kit and tank sold at wally world. I bought it used and got a really good deal. Also has a heater and a blue colored bubble wand? (not sure what it is called but there's lots of bubbles in the tank) ....... Currently there are 4 Zebra Danio's inside.

Tank set up last wed, so 8/21.. fish added yesterday 8/25 Water tested and everything was at 0 but ph was way too high... I treated the water with ph lowering stuff along with the water conditioner and freshwater salt. yes, the fish store guy told me I needed all this stuff... then further reading tells me I don't.

Will post another update after I test my water. For anyone reading, how can I be sure of the type of filter this is and heater? I have paperwork on neither of these tanks. I want to be sure that the tank is set up best possible.

I also need to buy a vaccum any suggestions on that? Least expensive for now, I have already invested alot of money so far.

Welcome to the forum. Have you read up about a fish IN cycle? http://www.aquariumadvice.com/artic...g-but-I-already-have-fish-What-now/Page2.html

I wouldn't adjust the Ph with anything except water changes, it is better to keep it stable than to try to raise or lower it, fish typically adjust to your Ph. Also did you get a liquid water test kit? You will need to test each tanks water daily & do the proper water changes, with 2 fish IN cycling tanks you'll be doing LOTS of water changes. I did 2 tanks at the same time and was averaging water changes every other day on both, one tank took 8 wks, the other about 6 to complete cycling. You can purchase a syphon/vac at Petsmart or Petco relatively inexpensively, Wal-mart probably has them as well. You may want to invest in what's called a Python or something similar when money permits. As for filtration without further information it's hard to say, you would need to provide brand, gph or what size tank it's rated for or post pics of them & someone may recognize it. The heaters would be the same as the filters, more info. or pics. You don't need the salt unless treating for an illness or injury. Have patience & good luck.

 

[southerngirl]

Well, hopefully the stuff I put in there for ph will not hurt things too much. Yes, I read the articles about fish in cycling and they are very helpful. Too bad I did not read them sooner ... But I have fish now.

Anyway, I may take pictures of them, but as they came with the tanks like an all in one kit I would hope that its sufficient for the tank.

Thank you for replying...

 

[southerngirl]

Tested the water, in both tanks for PH and for ammonia. The PH is reading around 7.6 which is lower than yesterday before adding the ph stuff.

The Ammonia test seemed to come up clear on both. No color at all and on the chart the pale yellow would be the lowest reading, does not seem to be colored at all.

Is this normal?

 

[hpiguy]

You did start off on the right foot for stocking.

Very low stocking is crucial. Four zebra danios in a 29 is good, along with the single betta in a 5.

I think you'll come through your fish-in cycle just fine.

 

[jetajockey]

Welcome to the forum!

It's only been a day so ammonia may take awhile to build. The good news is your stocking currently is great for a fish-in cycle. Since the ammonia /nitrite production is slow, your wc routine will be easy.

Definitely get a python or similar water changer. It's expensive but no more lugging buckets.

 

[librarygirl]

[like a dope I refreshed the page and lost everything I wrote. Now I have to remember what I typed lol]

Hi and welcome!

Look on the side of the heaters; usually it'll have manufacturer info (Aqeon, etc) and wattage. You just want to be sure the wattage is high enough for the tank so the water is heated enough but not so much wattage that it could potentially overheat the tank. I also suggest getting an in-tank mercury thermometer for both tanks since the heaters aren't always reliable especially if it's a pre-set heater and not adjustable. Something like this: Top Fin® Floating Glass Aquarium Thermometer - Heaters & Accessories - Fish - PetSmart (don't get the strips that stick on the glass; those aren't easy to read)

What test kit are you using? The API Master liquid kit is preferred over strips which don't last long and aren't as accurate. You can usually get the liquid kit cheaper on Amazon or a site like Big AL's: Freshwater Master Test Kit

For a siphon, a small one for the 5 gal would work. I suggest getting one with a manual pump as the others can be hard to get a siphon going. Something like this: Top Fin® Aquarium Gravel Vacuum - Aquarium Maintenance - Fish - PetSmart For the 29, you might want to get one that attaches to your faucet so you can drain and refill without having to lug buckets: Aqueon® Aquarium Water Changer - Fish - Sale - PetSmart

What water conditioner/dechlorinator are you using? Whatever you have on hand should be fine for now but when you can, get some Seachem Prime. It's more concentrated so it'll last longer.

The good news is that you've appropriately stocked both tanks for a fish-in cycle so toxins shouldn't rise that fast (particularly in the 29) so your water changes shouldn't be too frequent.

As you've learned, don't mess with PH and most freshwater fish don't need salt (unless using it to treat disease), particularly the ones you have. Don't add any more and when you do water changes the salt will be slowly removed.

As for filters, if you can take a pic of them we can help. Most aquarium kits come with filters that are just enough or not quite enough for the tank. You're probably fine for now though. As you add more fish when the cycle completes you might want to add a second filter or upgrade to a large one for the 29.

The fish-in guide was linked above. Here's another article that might help too:
Guide to Starting a Freshwater Aquarium - Aquarium Advice

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[southerngirl]

To give more details and answer some questions.

The test kit is liquid with test tubes. API Freshwater master Test kit. Newbie me already broke one of the four test tubes when trying to take the top off for the first time. Yeah... So now only have three tubes.

The conditioner is 'AquaLife Complete' says promotes healing, relieves stress, replaces slime coat, removes chlorine, ammonia and chloramines, detoxifies nitrite, and heavy metals, adds essential electrolytes, boosts alkalinty << typed all that from whats on front of bottle

I also added a bacterial boost>? This stuff is from a fish specialty store, they said I needed this too. TLC for Freshwater Aquariums , fish guy said that if I bring back this empty bottle I can get a refill there for 20 percent off... So this may be something they did? I dont know...

Instructions on that says to put it in weekly at first then it will be monthly after water changes for life of tank(s).. 'For a beautiful, healthy aquarium. TLC eliminates toxic ammonia and nitrite, and reduces sludge. Reduces manual cleaning and need for water changes' << typed from bottle

The heater says All Glass Aquarium 100 V its set about mid range, and is floating in the water at back of tank. The thermometer sticker on side of tank shows 80. I will look into getting one that goes inside the tank.

 

[southerngirl]

We tested the water in the tank(s) again. Everything looks ok but The Ammonia and Nitrate tests , the water remained clear.. shouldn't it show the palest yellow? This is the 2nd time that we have done it and its not even the yellow that would be the lowest reading. Nitrite changes color to the lowest reading..

Is my test broken?

 

[jetajockey]

That's not normal, are you using both reagents (bottles 1 and 2) for each test?

 

[shellieca]

We tested the water in the tank(s) again. Everything looks ok but The Ammonia and Nitrate tests , the water remained clear.. shouldn't it show the palest yellow? This is the 2nd time that we have done it and its not even the yellow that would be the lowest reading. Nitrite changes color to the lowest reading..

Is my test broken?

That is odd because one bottle for each has yellow liquid so it couldn't be clear if you're using both bottles, 2 for ammonia & 2 for nitrates. You're using the API Master Test Kit right?

 

[southerngirl]

No, didn't know you are supposed to use both bottles. I'm at work now, I'll try it again when I get home tonight..

 

[southerngirl]

Now that I figured out the test, yes I was doing it wrong... The 5 gallon tank tested way high on ammonia... like green near the 4 ppm.. we did a 50 % water change, and then it still tested a light green... did a 100 % water change and everything is fine again of course. I hope I got the water temp right. Bob the Betta is back in his tank.

The 29 gallon seemed to read to .25 ammonia so we did a 30 % water change and its testing good again.

Will test again tomorrow.

 

[prgmitchell]

Now that I figured out the test, yes I was doing it wrong... The 5 gallon tank tested way high on ammonia... like green near the 4 ppm.. we did a 50 % water change, and then it still tested a light green... did a 100 % water change and everything is fine again of course. I hope I got the water temp right. Bob the Betta is back in his tank.

The 29 gallon seemed to read to .25 ammonia so we did a 30 % water change and its testing good again.

Will test again tomorrow.

Never want to do a 100% water change! 75% at the most....I just do hourly 50% changes until levels go down if there's a spike in anything.

 

[southerngirl]

I read somewhere that you could not change too much water, and it is a Betta fish. Isn't the bacteria grown in the filter and all that stuff? Not in the water?

We did a 50 % and it was still dangerously high on the ammonia test, that's why we did it more.

 

[jetajockey]

I read somewhere that you could not change too much water, and it is a Betta fish. Isn't the bacteria grown in the filter and all that stuff? Not in the water?

We did a 50 % and it was still dangerously high on the ammonia test, that's why we did it more.

That's correct. I'd opt for the smaller pwcs if you are filling straight from tap but if the water has been pretreated and aerated I wouldn't hesitate to do much larger ones. That reasoning is mostly for the comfort of the fish, but often times can be negligible, so it's something you'll get a feel for over time.

 

[prgmitchell]

I read somewhere that you could not change too much water, and it is a Betta fish. Isn't the bacteria grown in the filter and all that stuff? Not in the water?

We did a 50 % and it was still dangerously high on the ammonia test, that's why we did it more.

If that happens, keep doing hourly 50%'s .... it will go down.

 

[southerngirl]

Next time I will change less.. we had just kind of freaked out and husband started changing water.. All the fish are still alive though. Like I said we are new to this..

Will update soon , am going to check the water again today.

 

[jetajockey]

Next time I will change less.. we had just kind of freaked out and husband started changing water.. All the fish are still alive though. Like I said we are new to this..

Will update soon , am going to check the water again today.

It's fine to do larger than 50% changes, especially if you are reducing toxin concentration. I did 3 75% wcs yesterday on different tanks that had unusually high nitrate readings. I usually opt for about 50% on my weekly routine but it's not detrimental to deviate a bit when it's called for.

 

[southerngirl]

Is it okay to add a plant.. What kind would be good and also, does the bottom of the tank have to be sand? Both of my tanks... 5 gallon and 29 gallon have the very small rocks at bottom.