FresH2O's 20g planted rescape

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Fresh2o said:
About 30% on average. Today is was about 60%.
I don't have room for those. The broad leader chain swords took over my tank last year; too tall for a carpet IMO and grow too fast.


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Seems about right, i do 40-50% but my tanks are heavily stocked. I was kidding, it is borderline invasive if not trimmed out weekly, i let it go nuts..

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After a 60% WC the nitrate is 10 and phosphate is 5 (down from 40 and 20 respectively). Don't want to do another WC just yet; I want that changes to be gradual. Maybe another tomorrow. Will dose at regular amounts but no KNO3 and retest later in the week.


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Fresh2o said:
After a 60% WC the nitrate is 10 and phosphate is 5 (down from 40 and 20 respectively). Don't want to do another WC just yet; I want that changes to be gradual. Maybe another tomorrow. Will dose at regular amounts but no KNO3 and retest later in the week.


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Just out of interest, what ph do you have in the tank?
 
Delapool said:
Just out of interest, what ph do you have in the tank?
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Using the API pH kit it is 7.6 and with the High Range pH kit it is 7.8.
I took a water sample prior to and after a 66% water change (allowed about 20 minutes for the filter to circulate). Pre-WC phosphate = 10 ppm. Yesterday I reported 5 ppm. Post-WC phosphate is 2 ppm. The discrepancy between yesterday and today could be a sampling error or possibly allowing insufficient time for the new water to circulate and equilibrate. I will check the phosphate again during the week.
After the water change I added macros at normal dosage (it does have some extra phosphate, thus the subsequent testing this week), skipped the KNO3, and Micros at normal dosage.
Other than that, everything appears fine. Downoi meltdown appears to have slowed down considerably or stopped. Algae is at a minimum in the tank. Oddly enough, there is stag horn and BBA growing on the plastic strips I use for directing the HOB filter output. Despite the current, it is a few inches from the light fixture and I'm guessing the high phosphate and nitrate contributed to the growth. Idk.


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Just when something is put to bed another pops up huh? Greatttttt..

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Brookster123 said:
Just when something is put to bed another pops up huh? Greatttttt..

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Nah, that algae is bright red/pink now. Treated with peroxide.
I just checked the phosphate and it's 5 ppm. Was 2 ppm although it was only 20 or so minutes after the WC so it might not be accurate. Going to check it again tomorrow evening. If it is greater than 5 then I will mix a new batch of macros.


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For future record Tom Barr had a post somewhere talking about a peroxide/excel one/two punch algae treatment. You may use it for next time if there is one!


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Brookster123 said:
So the highly elevated phosphates can cause the Staghorn huh? That would solely be a result of the adjustments made to your pps pro regiment?

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Not true. I've run my very high light 220g with phosphate levels of 10ppm or slightly higher with algae problems. But in my case I found that a level of around 5ppm did just as well as a higher phosphate which many have that dose EI.
 
Fresh2o said:
After a 60% WC the nitrate is 10 and phosphate is 5 (down from 40 and 20 respectively). Don't want to do another WC just yet; I want that changes to be gradual. Maybe another tomorrow. Will dose at regular amounts but no KNO3 and retest later in the week.


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These are ideal levels IMO for a high light tank.
 
Fishperson said:
You need to turn the light off during H2O2 treatment just for the record. I believe Janis told me that H2O2 breaks down when exposed to light, or at least faster than it would normally.
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Hate to admit this but I've been lazy for some time now and quit turning off the lights and the treatment still works. Just don't know if it works as well. But it is true that light breaks down H2O2 faster which is why it sold in opaque bottles.
 
Rivercats said:
Not true. I've run my very high light 220g with phosphate levels of 10ppm or slightly higher with algae problems. But in my case I found that a level of around 5ppm did just as well as a higher phosphate which many have that dose EI.
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I was just throwing it out there, not a statement, more of an observational question;) I have a nice string of Staghorn right under my ac70 outflow?

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Brookster123 said:
I was just throwing it out there, not a statement, more of an observational question;) I have a nice string of Staghorn right under my ac70 outflow?

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I betting it the because of the proximity of the lights. Zap it with peroxide. That's what I did.


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Rivercats said:
These are ideal levels IMO for a high light tank.
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Hah! Finally I did something right. Except I am not running high light at the moment (whatever the PAR is for a Finnex Planted + @ 8-9"). I have an extra FugeRay that is not running; I could use that to bump up the lighting.
This is such a balancing act. I can see why folks like the EI method.



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Fresh2o said:
Hah! Finally I did something right. Except I am not running high light at the moment (whatever the PAR is for a Finnex Planted + @ 8-9"). I have an extra FugeRay that is not running; I could use that to bump up the lighting.
This is such a balancing act. I can see why folks like the EI method.



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You're probably pushing 70 - 80 par at that hieght, i think it's 60 at 16"..

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Brookster123 said:
You're probably pushing 70 - 80 par at that hieght, i think it's 60 at 16"..

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60?!?!

I didnt know they had released p+ par numbers! That changes things... I though I had 40 par, not pushing 60!!!
 
Fishperson said:
60?!?!

I didnt know they had released p+ par numbers! That changes things... I though I had 40 par, not pushing 60!!!
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I could be wrong, pretty sure Lowe released the official graph on tpt. 16"- 60, 14"-80, 12"-90 maybe??? Paging Dr. Nano...

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Brookster123 said:
I could be wrong, pretty sure Lowe released the official graph on tpt. 16"- 60, 14"-80, 12"-90 maybe??? Paging Dr. Nano...

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Huh, that makes sense i guess. Bout time finnex stepped their par game up.

No need to bother Brian, I'll look for the TPT thread.
 
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