nice!!
GBOY & NU NU 30 gal saltwater build!!!!!!!
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nice!!
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Nu-Nu the eel
Aquarium Advice Addict
zacheyp said:
Thanks! We still need a filter, 2 powerheads, LR, and thats it i think..
Wy Renegade said:
Ya! Ya know, i was looking around for where it said "550" or "750" but it didnt! I guess we wont go with those ones. What about these?
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=160679076243&index=2&nav=SEARCH&nid=36955100092
Wy Renegade
Aquarium Advice Addict
Don't know anything about that particular powerhead, looks like a Koralia knockoff to me. If I were spending the money, I'd go with a powerhead that has the reputation and warranty backing up its price. JMO
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Nu-Nu the eel
Aquarium Advice Addict
Okay, do you suggest buying filter-powerheads-LR or..
LR-Filter-Powerheads
LR-Filter-Powerheads
Wy Renegade
Aquarium Advice Addict
By filter do you mean protein skimmer or you talking another filter? If you're buying a sufficient quantity of LR and Powerheads that provide plenty of flow, you will not need an additional filter. As for the powerheads and LR, you will have to buy them together or buy the filters first and then the LR. LR and its critters will not survive long term with ample water movement.
Wy Renegade
Aquarium Advice Addict
No, if you have sufficient flow and that amount of LR, you will not need an additional filter. What is sufficient flow, totally depends on the type of corals you plan on keeping down the road.
Quote:
If soft corals are being kept in the aquarium then flow should be provided which is ten times the net water volume of the aquarium. If hard corals are being kept then water flow should be provided which is in the region of thirty times the net water volume of the aquarium. As said this is a general rule of thumb and is primarily based upon a minimum requirement. It is not uncommon for reef tanks to have water flow in the region of sixty times the net water volume or more.
Little light reading you might want to look over as you're consider flow
Advanced Beginnings: The Basics Of Water Movement In The Reef Aquarium — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog
Feature Article: Water flow is more important for corals — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog
Feature Article: Water flow is more important for corals than light. Part 1. Introduction to Gas Exchange — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog
Feature Article: Water flow is more important for corals than light. Part II: The science of corals and water flow — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog
Feature Article: Water Flow is More Important for Corals Than Light Part 4: Basics of Hydrodynamics — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog
Feature Article: Water Flow is More Important for Corals Than Light, Part V — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog
You will certainly be ok starting with two, especially if you plan on not adding corals until later. If you plan on keeping any type of the more demanding SPS down the road, you will need more flow. Also keep in mind though that adding powerheads down the road may mean that you have to change your aquascape as well. Just something to consider.
That said keep in mind that the koralias provide a pretty directional flow (and with the older ones, if you put the small plastic piece on the outside, it was also a very small outlet). By leaving the small plastic piece off, you could increase the size of the flow, and I definitely recommend that. I'm not familiar with the newer version, so can't speak to that.
Wy Renegade said:No, if you have sufficient flow and that amount of LR, you will not need an additional filter. What is sufficient flow, totally depends on the type of corals you plan on keeping down the road.
Quote:
If soft corals are being kept in the aquarium then flow should be provided which is ten times the net water volume of the aquarium. If hard corals are being kept then water flow should be provided which is in the region of thirty times the net water volume of the aquarium. As said this is a general rule of thumb and is primarily based upon a minimum requirement. It is not uncommon for reef tanks to have water flow in the region of sixty times the net water volume or more.
Little light reading you might want to look over as you're consider flow
Advanced Beginnings: The Basics Of Water Movement In The Reef Aquarium — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog
Feature Article: Water flow is more important for corals — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog
Feature Article: Water flow is more important for corals than light. Part 1. Introduction to Gas Exchange — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog
Feature Article: Water flow is more important for corals than light. Part II: The science of corals and water flow — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog
Feature Article: Water Flow is More Important for Corals Than Light Part 4: Basics of Hydrodynamics — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog
Feature Article: Water Flow is More Important for Corals Than Light, Part V — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog
You will certainly be ok starting with two, especially if you plan on not adding corals until later. If you plan on keeping any type of the more demanding SPS down the road, you will need more flow. Also keep in mind though that adding powerheads down the road may mean that you have to change your aquascape as well. Just something to consider.
That said keep in mind that the koralias provide a pretty directional flow (and with the older ones, if you put the small plastic piece on the outside, it was also a very small outlet). By leaving the small plastic piece off, you could increase the size of the flow, and I definitely recommend that. I'm not familiar with the newer version, so can't speak to that.
Well, we plan on keeping more of the basic corals, since our light wouldnt be able to support any of the more advanced ones. Plus, we dont have the experience yet.
As for the korolias, several people recommended them earlier in the thread, and i have seen them used before so i was planning on getting those. But, if you have had an experirnce with another powerhead that you like, by all means say so! I would love to know.
Also, for the korolias and powerhead flow in general, were do you point them? on opposite sides of the wall from side to side? Of on both sides, but pointed more diagonally twoards the front, to make a sort of pinball type flow? Lol
Thanks so much for all of the articles Wy, i knew that powerheads were important in sw home aquaria, but not THAT important! I learned alot, and i am gratfull
carey
Aquarium Advice Addict
I wouldn't worry about the reef master kit just yet. It is for calcium, alkalinty and phosphates I believe. For those tests U kinda would recommend a more reliable test kit than the API one, something like salifert would be my suggestion.
carey said:I wouldn't worry about the reef master kit just yet. It is for calcium, alkalinty and phosphates I believe. For those tests U kinda would recommend a more reliable test kit than the API one, something like salifert would be my suggestion.
Ok, good
so carey, do you recommend the 800 korolias from ebay? Or a different type from another place?
bruinsbro1997
Aquarium Advice Addict
eBay, Amazon, fishneedit, the Classifieds, the LFS, anywhere IMO
stingrays4
Aquarium Advice FINatic
Hi wow think it'll be past me bedtime if i read every post,so i do apologies if i repeat anything. I didn't see any mention of a hydrometer or refractometer? You'll need a way to measure the salinity? Also the use of an additional filter is some times used with a phosphate removing resin? I believe carbon not used much in marines? Peppermint shrimps can be shy? Six line wrasse perfect with the clowns try and provide them with there territory to one side so they don't 'rule' the centre of the tank? Just a suggestion
. I didn't see any mention of a hydrometer or refractometer? You'll need a way to measure the salinity? Also the use of an additional filter is some times used with a phosphate removing resin? I believe carbon not used much in marines? Peppermint shrimps can be shy? Six line wrasse perfect with the clowns try and provide them with there territory to one side so they don't 'rule' the centre of the tank? Just a suggestionstingrays4 said:Hi wow think it'll be past me bedtime if i read every post,so i do apologies if i repeat anything
Ah yes, i am going to get a refractometer, but not yet. I will once the cycling starts. Not dure what you mean by the additional filter, but i will have 2, aquaclear 70 and an aquon 10 gallon filter. I am planning on one peppermint shrimp, bad idea? And the new stock list is
1 ocerellis clownfish
1 scissor tail dartfish
1 high finned red banded goby
1 YWG
1 gramma
1 bangaii cardinal
stingrays4
Aquarium Advice FINatic
Hi sounds like you got the filtration covered Why only a single clown? I have only ever kept pairs
Also as far as i remember inverts do not count towards the total stocking level so you could add more shrimps?
Refractometer - better than a hydrometer
Why only a single clown? I have only ever kept pairs Also as far as i remember inverts do not count towards the total stocking level so you could add more shrimps? Refractometer - better than a hydrometer
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Nu-Nu the eel
Aquarium Advice Addict
Oh i heard that if you have 2 clowns they get agressive? I hope thats not true
Because i would love to get 2!!
Because i would love to get 2!!
stingrays4 said:Hi sounds like you got the filtration covered
Refractometer - better than a hydrometer
Well i heard that the clowns could pair up, and be a bit agressive, and i dont really want to chance it, ya know? For inverts, i was planning on alot! They are my favorite
1-2 cleaner
1 peppermint
1 fire (eventually!)
1 emerald crab
10 hermits
10 snails
A different type of crab?
Ya, im definatly going refractometer. I compare the hydrometer to test strips, and refractometer to a liquid test kit
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