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I'm going to give the anachris another shot. With the light setup(36 watt compact flourescent) that I'm putting together, I'll have plenty of light, and I've also learned quite a bit already about how to take care of plants.
 
Another update for you all. The wendtii is still growing nicely, and Barry has decided that it isn't so bad to nap under it's leaves.
Got 2 bunches of anachris today, two different varieties. They're all in now. Tested my water as well, and have 0's across the board. No ammonia, no nitrite, and no nitrate. I'll have to keep an eye on this one, just hoping that I don't end up losing the bacteria I worked so patiently to establish.
 
the 0ppm reading for nitrate is probably due to your live plants. they like nitrate :)
 
I realized that one, but I'm a little worried about the plants not having enough nutrients to keep them going nicely.
 
do you have the 36w light on there yet? that's a bit of light, would put you in the medium-high light category--which means you'll probably need CO2 and ferts to keep everything balanced (don't know if you're planning on this or not.)

if you're still running the 15w, that should be enough light for the anacharis. are you dosing the Flourish yet? that may help (just don't get the excel)

also, if you're running carbon in the filter, it's known to take valuable nutrients out of the water column. just a thought.

on a side note, have you gotten the glowlights yet? i'd like to advise against them again. they are a larger variety of tetra and are quite active for a tetra. there are plenty of tetra that are on the smaller side that you could get away with in a 10g. embers would be perfect--you could even get a better schooling number (7 would be ideal). there are also other "nano" fish that would work--celestial pearl danios or any microrasbora
 
The 36 watt is in and running(much brighter), dosing Flourish 2x a week, and currently working on the CO2.
I was already contemplating changing from the glowlights to the neons after looking at them today. For the cories, I also saw some of them today, and I'm definitely going with the pygmies. They are some very active little fish there. They just kept running around the tank at the LFS.
 
ok yeah, your plants are probably going to suffer from nutrient/CO2 deficiency. like i said, 36w over 10g is med-high light which definitely warrants the need for CO2 and ferts. you're going to want to look into dry ferts and and possibly an auto doser. i'm actually working on getting dry ferts myself (running through the liquid VERY fast!) from Planted Aquarium Fertilizer - Home which was recommended by a couple of other members who buy them there. are you going with DIY CO2 or buying a system?
 
Finished building a DIY CO2 last night. 2 liter soda bottle for production, running into a small power head that that I placed a fitting into the outlet, and then into a brand new funnel to limit the bubbles that escape. Actually seems to work pretty good. I'm going to be getting some potassium nitrate this week, and build a drop tester.
Later on, I'll probably buy a CO2 system, but for now, I'll run the DIY.
 
Nice! just remember it's VERY important to keep the CO2 as consistent as possible. Inconsistent levels of CO2 are almost worse than no CO2. Algae loves that! That's why it's normally recommended to use 2 bottles of CO2, so you can replace one, then in a week replace the other, and keep alternating which bottle you replace to have a more constant flow of CO2.
 
I'm going to have to get a drop checker. If my kH(11) and pH(6.8) readings are right and the chart is working properly for me, then I'm at almost 70 ppm CO2 in one day(which I doubt). I can see little bubbles on my plants though.
Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate are all testing out at 0 still as well.
Barry is still acting like normal also. Right to the front of the tank the moment I walk in trying to say that I hadn't fed him(even if I just did and went out to the truck for a minute).
 
yeah, if it were that high, your fish would be gasping for air. are you sure your kh is 11? seems pretty high to me. you want your CO2 to be about 30ppm. a drop checker is definitely key.
 
I'm sure. 11 drops of the the KH solution to get the test to turn from blue to greenish(12 to get bright yellow).
I was also thinking that Barry might not show any of the signs of too much CO2, seeing as he's a betta, and currently the only inhabitant besides the plants.
 
Another update for you all.
Got some neon tetras(6) and some amano shrimp(4) now, as well as Barry. Fun part, he just ignores everyone else. Only problem is that I need to feed both the neon tetras and Barry at the same time, or the neon tetras will steal his food.
Finally seem to be succeeding with anachris. have some nice new growth. Only problem that I've had is an algae outbreak, but seem to have it cleaned up by scraping the glass with the siphon going at the same time(PWC, yippy). Seems like the plants are starting to out compete the algae now. what was growing on a leaf of my wendtii is starting to turn brown.
I am thinking of growing some brine shrimp to give these guys as a treat, but not too sure yet.
Still no drop checker, but every thing seems fine. I want to blow my own out of glass, but am out of practice on the glass work.
 
Every time I've done a PWC, the algae seems to come back with a vengence. Picked up an API Phosphate test kit, and tested both my tank, and it's off the chart. Tested my tap water as well, and it's at 1ppm phosphate. Put a PhosGuard pillow into my filter to lower the phosphates.
Everything else is testing out at 0(ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate), probably in part to the amount of algae.0.
Got a second wedntii, and it's growing nicely, and 2 otto fish to help with algae control. The wendtii didn't even wilt at all when I put it in the tank. Instead, it already has 4 new leaves.
Everyone else seems quite happy. The tetras will randomly play tag with each other, and Barry could care less about anyone else.
 
I think one of my ottos might actually be a siamese algae eater. The stripe on it's side is solid all the way back, while the other otto's stripe has a break near the tail, followed by a dark spot.
Any input on this one?
 
The one I was worried about passed on during the day(found him laying bely up on the gravel). The other one is happily chomping down on algae(he's developed a habit of laying in the hair algae while eating it). He's also doing a good job on the algae on the crypt leaves.
Ammonia is 0, nitrite is 0, nitrate is 0, and phosphate is at .25 now(much better than it was the other day, off the chart). I'm thinking that the nitrates are 0 because of the insane amount of hair algae. Constantly having to clean it off the glass.
Weird one, I accidentally unplugged the pump I'm using to dissolve the CO2 into the water, and the algae took off like mad. Guess I'll have to keep the CO2 going to keep the plants competitive with the algae.
 
Figured I'd give you all another update. Lost several fish last week. Not sure what triggered the problem, but the only one who survived was Barry.
Sunday, got 2 new otto's and 2 new amano shrimp. Redid my CO2 reactor so that it is now outside of the tank. Works MUCH better than the one I was using. Also added a drop checker, and somehow, by sheer dumb luck, I had my CO2 right where it should be(4 dKh solution in it with reagent turned a nice green color after a couple hours). Also added a rather crude, but effective, way to basically do a partial shutdown of the CO2 reactor at night. Added a regular airpump, check valve, and control valve to a T on the CO2 line(after it's check valve). First night with this reactor, and in the morning the drop checker was turning yellow, not hinting, but full on yellow. The extra oxygen seems to help out a lot on limiting how much CO2 is being dissolved at night.
All my tests(NH3, NO2, NO3) are coming out at 0, and phosphate are between .25 and 0. I even took a sample in to my LFS to have them test it. Their first question after testing was if I took the sample right after a PWC, simply because of the results all being 0.
I also added some new plants, a corkscrew val, and another one that I constantly forget the name of.
 
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