Hard water, low ph...should i tinker?

[Magnolia44]

Set up my new (first) 75 gal tank on 8/28. No live plants. Added some bac in a bottle, and conditioned with Amquel plus. Cycling with 4 platys. I have been changing 25 gals about twice a week, adding Amquel plus. Read somewhere that Amquel plus monkeys with ammonia readings, so I am testing for total ammonia with the API liquids (has been at .5 to .75) and I have a Seachem ammonia alert for free ammonia which has stayed in the safe zone throughout. Have been seeing .5 nitrite and 20 nitrate. 80-82 degree water.
The books I read before I started had a consensus not to mess with the tap water other than conditioning, because steady ph and hardness are easier for the fish to adjust to, versus fluctuating conditions. LFS is no help, he said never change the water during cycling
But maybe my tap water warrants adjustment? Crappy florida water... the hardness is off the charts, my test strip tops out at 180 GH, so it is at least that. KH reads 20 for the tap water, and 0 for the water in the tank.
PH reads 6.5 for the tap water, and 6.0 for the tank water. Fish seem fine, eating well and active. Should I try to raise the pH and/or soften the water? Stocking plan is for 12 platys, 6 mollies, and 6 corys. Thank you for any helpful opinions

 

[bud29]

I would add some crushed coral to raise the pH. pH that is at 6 will make it hard for your bacteria to process ammonia, I believe. Also, with a fish-in cycle, you want to do a water change every time the ammonia and nitrite levels get over .25 ppm. This makes sure your fish stay healthy through the cycling process. For some people this means daily 50% water changes.

Oh, and to the forum!

 

[Magnolia44]

I looked at the directions and the crushed coral said it was for saltwater tanks only...Should i use the bottled pH UP stuff? What pH should I shoot for?

 

[BBradbury]

Fish In Tank Cycling

Hello Mag...

It would help the cycling process if you added some stem plants like Anacharis, Pennywort, Water sprite or Water wisteria.

Chemical bacteria starter really isn't as efficient as using hardy fish to cycle a tank. The Platys will easily survive the process if you test the water daily and when a test shows even a small trace of either ammonia or nitrites, replace a minimum of 25 percent of the water. Just replace the old, with pure, treated tap water. The pH, hardness, etc., is unimportant. The fish and plants will adapt. Both have been doing this for a long time. Don't try to change the water chemistry, just test the water and replace it if needed. Getting creative isn't a good thing at this point.

When you have several tests that read "0" for ammonia and nitrites, you can add a few more small fish, but not until then. Stock the Platys first and get the tank set up and running for several weeks to let the water chemistry settle. The Mollies and Corys are very sensative to changes in water chemistry, so you want the tank to be cycled and the water stable before putting them in the tank.

B

 

[bud29]

The pH, hardness, etc., is unimportant.

I'm not really disagreeing, but I thought that if pH was too low, the bacteria will have a hard time converting ammonia to nitrIte. That is why you don't want your pH to drop to the mid-low 6's when cycling. Just what I read.......

 

[BBradbury]

Fish In Tank Cycling

I'm not really disagreeing, but I thought that if pH was too low, the bacteria will have a hard time converting ammonia to nitrIte. That is why you don't want your pH to drop to the mid-low 6's when cycling. Just what I read.......

Hello bud...

If you have oxygen and nitrogens like ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, you'll have good bacteria living and growing. Unless you keep and breed rare fish species, then the rest will easily tolerate a pH range of 6 to as high as 8.5.

If the fish can live in this environment, then they'll do their business in the water and the little microscopic bugs will be there to do their job.

I'd suggest raising the temperature in the tank a little. 80 degrees should be enough. Your fish will be fine in the warmth and the good bacteria will reproduce a little faster and keep the lights on a timer set for at least 12 hours on. More light, more bacteria growth. Add an extra HOB filter if you have one, the more oxygen you get into the water the better and get some polyfiber into the filter. The good bacteria lives on any inside surface in the tank. The polyfiber has a lot of surface area for the bacteria to live.

That's all that comes to mind right now.

B

 

[bud29]

Hello bud...

If you have oxygen and nitrogens like ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, you'll have good bacteria living and growing. Unless you keep and breed rare fish species, then the rest will easily tolerate a pH range of 6 to as high as 8.5.

If the fish can live in this environment, then they'll do their business in the water and the little microscopic bugs will be there to do their job.

I'd suggest raising the temperature in the tank a little. 80 degrees should be enough. Your fish will be fine in the warmth and the good bacteria will reproduce a little faster and keep the lights on a timer set for at least 12 hours on. More light, more bacteria growth. Add an extra HOB filter if you have one, the more oxygen you get into the water the better and get some polyfiber into the filter. The good bacteria lives on any inside surface in the tank. The polyfiber has a lot of surface area for the bacteria to live.

That's all that comes to mind right now.

B

Oh OK. I have just read in all these cycling articles "Don't let the pH get in the low 6's!" "Don't let the pH get in the low 6's!" "Don't let the pH get in the low 6's!" So I was unsure.

 

[Magnolia44]

Thank you!! Ok, I've got one for, one against tinkering...anyone out there with a tie breaking opinion

 

[BBradbury]

Fish In Tank Cycling

Hello Mag...

Hope you're keeping track of these posts. I messed up and started posting to bud and he's not the one with the cycling questions.

Sorry, hope there's not too much confusion.

B