Help with seachem ferts ?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

Brookster123

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
Nov 26, 2013
Messages
19,821
Location
Mass
I Recently received my seachem ferts, trace,iron,phos,potas. Anyone use these? Should I follow directions on bottles? It says not to use trace the same day as flourish? They're all flourish? I'd really appreciate some insight!
 
I think the level of dosing would depend on how planted your tank is (lightly versus heavily) and if it's a low tech vs. medium or high tech tank (i.e. high light and CO2?).
 
I think the level of dosing would depend on how planted your tank is (lightly versus heavily) and if it's a low tech vs. medium or high tech tank (i.e. high light and CO2?).
id say med light, med planted, dose excel, no co2
 
I think the dwarf baby tears would be the most demanding. I'd probably just dose as directed, if not slightly more for the HC. I think Seachem's line is made mostly for lower tech aquariums. Those that venture into medium/high tech dose dry ferts (e.g. EI or PPS-Pro). I grew some dwarf baby tears with flourish, but it started getting yellow after a while. I think it was due to a nitrogen deficiency. Just have to watch out for that and adjust if needed.

I found this thread where someone created a calculator for Seachem's liquid fert dosing. Not sure if it works, but worth a shot. I highly recommend switching over the dry ferts when the Seachem stuff runs out. It's cheaper, highly customizable, and my HC took a turn for the better once I made the switch.
 
I think the dwarf baby tears would be the most demanding. I'd probably just dose as directed, if not slightly more for the HC. I think Seachem's line is made mostly for lower tech aquariums. Those that venture into medium/high tech dose dry ferts (e.g. EI or PPS-Pro). I grew some dwarf baby tears with flourish, but it started getting yellow after a while. I think it was due to a nitrogen deficiency. Just have to watch out for that and adjust if needed. I found this thread where someone created a calculator for Seachem's liquid fert dosing. Not sure if it works, but worth a shot. I highly recommend switching over the dry ferts when the Seachem stuff runs out. It's cheaper, highly customizable, and my HC took a turn for the better once I made the switch.
I'm still a total plant noob and this is really my first go at any kind of fert regiment, drys and high light are the next step for sure! Thanks for the help! Can you post a link to the seachem thread or is it searchable in AA?
 
Should be good then... I really like how there's red LEDs in it... I've noticed improvements in both growth and color overall when I switched from an all white LED unit to one that has some red diodes in it too.
 
Should be good then... I really like how there's red LEDs in it... I've noticed improvements in both growth and color overall when I switched from an all white LED unit to one that has some red diodes in it too.
what do you use? Bml? 3 or 4 reds in each tube, they are intense too, I started with 2 day and a colormax, switching it up to the 2 colormax made a nice difference with the overall look of the tank, I may go for all three.. I like how interchangeable the fixture is. Than again that could speak to the longevity if the tubes.. What have you heard about the new fluval 5200k planted series??
 
I started out using all white LED's such as the Finnex Ray 2. I still use one of those fixtures.. sold my other 2. I now have a Finnex FugeRay-R over my 6g, which is all white and red leds. I also have 2 Current Satellite LED+ fixtures over my 17g (co2 injected), which has white and RGB LEDs. The red in the RGB really helps and I've noticed improvements in my overall color in my plants. At my parents' house, I set up a 26g bowfront (co2 injected). On that tank we're using one Current Sat+ with a Fluval Aqualife & Plant LED. We're getting a good moderate light level on that tank. The Fluval LED performs well and has a nice warm color to it. However, if I didn't already have those fixtures and if I were to do it all over again, I'd definitely get the BuildMyLED light due to the height of that bowfront. The BML has more powerful LEDs and optics that would allow it to penetrate deeper and get the plants to color up better.
 
Last edited:
RGB = red, green, and blue

The Current Sat+ has controllable RGB LEDs that allow you to adjust the color output of the light.

ibpKXaNF2SDfWO.jpg
 
How important are the greens and blues? Thought blues were more for sw coral and alike?
 
Oh boy, you just opened up a can of worms and you got me going! LOL

I'm not an expert, but when I researched it last, I do recall reading that plants can utilize all those colors in the wavelength. Although, the green much less than the blue and red. Blue can penetrate the deepest, where red gets filtered out the fastest by water. That's one reason the dedicated red LEDs that are supplemented are a welcomed addition in my book.

I just find you'll get the best results from plant growth by giving them "full spectrum" lighting. That's why you'll find some naysayers to LEDs when they first got released for planted tanks... they just weren't impressed and would say stuff like it just didn't make their plants look their best, this technology is still in its infancy stage, or it didn't develop colors well (i.e. red plants fading to green); and they'd switch back to T5HO. If you were to examine all white LEDs and look at a spectral graph for them, you'd be surprised how disproportionately heavy they are in the blue spectrum. Whereas, if you compared a similar color temperature bulb from a T5HO florescent tube, you'll see (on the spectral graph) spikes in reds and greens (both have the blue). Here's an example comparing two daylight lights (7,000K and 6500K, respectively), first being LED and the second a midday T5HO bulb:

img_2854251_0_7e07fefb6fa0f54b1e2a9f6cb320f89c.jpg


For this reason, I like the direction of where the newer freshwater LED technologies are taking us. We're seeing manufacturers, like BML, Current, Aqueon, Finnex, Fluval, etc., start using and incorporating specific LEDs that emit other bandwidths (colors) other than just white -- ultimately bringing us closer to "full spectrum."

Here's more to read :)
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/lighting/38014-lighting-spectrum-photosythesis.html
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom